Field Guides
Bandera, Texas
(Bandera COUNTY)
Cowboy Capital of the World with dude ranches and Hill Country rivers.
Highlights
The city of Bandera is the county seat of Bandera County. The city’s slogan says it all: “Cowboy Capital of the World.” Truth be told, Bandera has no more need for cowboys today than 75 other Texas counties, but the city and the area have leaned hard into their history, and cowboys are celebrated here year-round rather than just at rodeo time. It has been a wise decision because cowboy culture powers a vibrant economy, gives the residents a rooted sense of place, and preserves history.
Texas Ten loves Bandera for all sorts of reasons. Great food, great nightlife, unique shopping, great history, etc. But it all starts with the picture-perfect setting. We extoll all sorts of beauty in Texas- the coast, the piney woods, the big sky country, the West Texas mountains, and the Chihuahuan Desert are all striking. But Texas Ten grew up in San Antonio and stands by the proposition that there is nothing quite as pretty as the Texas Hill Country. You can disagree, but let’s not argue- it is a hill on which we are willing to die.
Bandera is at the heart of the Hill Country, so in the highlights section, we argue first for a drive along SH Hwy 16 or SH 173 in the late fall with the convertible top down. Good for the soul. An easy way to explore the best scenery the area offers is the trails in the Hill Country State Natural Area or the Lost Maples State Natural Area, the latter of which Bandera County and Real County share. You can do it on foot, your horse, or their horse, guided or unguided. Beyond exploring outdoors, you need to take a meal at the O.S.T. Restaurant, spend an evening at Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Saloon, try a week at a dude ranch, and watch some of the pros rodeo. Let’s get started.
The Bandera County Courthouse
Stop by the beautiful Bandera County Courthouse, which has a colorful history. Built in 1891, two things were prominent: roof leaks and the fact that the courthouse was often used for non-official business. Eventually, the county commissioners fixed the roof leaks with an engineering marvel and put an end to dances and ice cream sales inside the building. Texas Ten is thankful for the first and wonders if the second could have been overlooked. The three-story Renaissance Revival structure sits on a bluff and fits the town. There is no courthouse square to speak of but plenty of cowboy tributes.
Things To See And Do
We already mentioned the Hill Country State Natural Area as a highlight, so here is your urgent reminder. The park offers only primitive camping other than the possibility of renting the one available lodge. For day use, there are tons of trails suitable for hiking, biking, or riding. Depending on the time of year and rainfall, West Verde Creek provides an aquatic possibility.
Bandera County and Lost Maples State Natural Area, particularly, are known for bluebonnets in the spring and spectacular fall foliage. The exact timing for the explosion of Texas wildflowers or the turning of the colors is known only to God. The Texas State park system keeps everyone posted, but actual entry into the park is subject to high demand when the color is at its peak.
Vanderpool is right next to Lost Maples. Given the number of motorcyclists who cruise the scenic roads in the area, the stunning Lone Star Motorcycle Museum is a natural fit. If you are among the many who believe a motorcycle has a soul, this place is heaven.
The great Tom T. Hall sang that the secret to life was “faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, and more money.” Note the order here and take heed. Bandera is a horse town, and you can borrow a horse. Go for a ride to get in the spirit. Check out the possibilities at Bandera Historical Rides, Cross G Ranch Trail Rides, Hill Country Equestrian Lodge, Legacy Ranch, Major Hope Corral, Mayan Ranch, Outlaw Outfitters, or Rancho Cortez.
Given the pedigree, the Bandera Rodeo Events draw big-time competition. This is a do-not-miss event if you are visiting over Memorial Day Weekend or Labor Day Weekend. Smaller rodeos occur frequently at the Mansfield Park Rodeo Arena, so check the schedule.
The Bandera Natural History and Art Museum is another way to experience the area’s long history. The Museum’s grounds occupy eight acres and feature plenty of animal statues. The inside has many artifacts, and the Spanish and Western Art is world-class.
The Frontier Times Museum showcases an extensive private collection of artifacts, curiosities, and Western art. Informational categories like Pioneer Life and Ranching Traditions or The Indians of Texas allow the museum to do a great job of conveying the real feel of pioneer life in and around Bandera while a visitor sees as much or as little as he or she wants.
Cowboys on Main is a Saturday tradition (9:00 am-1:00 pm) where kids of all ages might experience a chuckwagon or even a gunfight.
A caveat for this next bit. The Hill Country is in the midst of an extreme and long-lasting drought. It needs to rain and to rain in buckets for things to return to the way they should be. Assuming that rain eventually comes, all of the following is true. The Medina River runs next to Bandera and has some of the best floating and swimming holes in the state. The water runs a different blue-green shade and is refreshingly cold in the Texas summer. Great places to experience the river are Bandera City Park; a put in to the river just off the first bridge on Peaceful Valley Road (head west on SH 16 out of Bandera for six miles, then turn north on Peaceful Valley Road); or another put in near the intersection of SH 16 and Brewington Road. Paradise Canyon is a private facility with a gorgeous setting.
The number one thing to be aware of when driving around Bandera County is the possibility of a car-on-deer collision. Bambis are everywhere. So it is no surprise that Bandera is a prime white-tail deer hunting area. Turkey and dove are abundant. Many local ranches also stock exotics. So if man against beast is your thing, have at it. Just a few suggestions for private hunts- Flying A Ranch, Uno Mas Ranch, Mountain Creek Ranches, Good Times Ranch, Native Texas Hunting, Great Heart Ranch, Rancho Madrono, G4 Family Ranch, and Venado Springs.
The same drought caveat applies to fishing. The Medina and Sabinal Rivers draw anglers of both rod-and-reel and fly-casting variety. If Medina Lake ever fills up again, it will be a top-notch Texas fishing location. You can fish from the shore or pier in the state’s natural areas without a license. Bandera City Park is a popular spot to dunk a hook. Largemouth and smallmouth bass and bluegill are the common trophies in the area.
Food, Drinks, and Music (Eat Local!)
Vittles and Such
Eating, drinking, and dancing are almost as much a part of the cowboy identity as horses and hats. Bandera, of course, excels in these categories.
For great eats and more than a century of history, try the O. S. T. Restaurant, established in 1921. O.S.T. refers to “Old Spanish Trail,” the network of routes Spanish Conquistadors used to explore, trade with Native Americans, and search for those elusive cities of gold. The area around Bandera was much traveled for these purposes. During the 1930s and 40s, O.S.T. was more of a roadhouse, and it hosted some of country and western’s earliest stars. Today, it is straight-up Texas cafe food at its best.
Comfort food is a constant in Bandera. Other than O.S.T., others that hit the spot include Brick’s River Cafe (patio seating by the river for the win), TJ’s at the Old Forge (elevated sports bar that is a great place to catch a game), the Trail Boss Steakhouse and Grill, and the Branding Iron Grill (located at the Flying L Resort for a great view).
For burgers and sandwiches, Jimmy claims to be the best. Try him at Jimmy Burgers.
Before there were cowboys, there were (and still are) vaqueros. Thus, the love of Tex-Mex; something there is no shortage of in and around Bandera. Pick among Don Chepe’s, El Jacaliito, Mi Pueblo. Outside of the town of Bandera, there is La Cabana Cafe in Lakehills, or Taco-Dilla Sunrise in Pipe Creek.
Cowboys and barbecue make a pretty good marriage, so visit the results at Chicken Charley’s. Gene Autrey probably did not eat much pizza, but today’s Cowboys do in Bandera. You can find the good stuff at The Dough Joe, Pap’s Italian Grill (which serves other Italian dishes, and we like the fusion represented by the “Italian Grill” concept), and Cowboy Capital Pizza Company.
If you are willing to make a short drive (you should be; remember, it’s scenic here), your reward would be Mac & Ernie’s Roadside Eatery in Tarpley. Somewhat amazingly, Mac & Ernie’s was the very first restaurant featured on the uber-popular Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Inns, and Dives. This is a popular Thursday-Sunday place, so check in before going to ensure they can serve you.
Another interesting side trip- this time for lunch- takes you to the Patio Cafe at Love Creek Orchards in Medina. Love Creek is an apple orchard, and its store features an amazing bakery. Patio dining ending with apple pie sounds pretty enticing.
One last “drive a bit” option puts true farm-to-table food on your fork at the acclaimed Backyard Bistro in nearby Pipe Creek. And, while you are in Pipe Creek, head to one of the prettiest wineries in Texas, Timber Ridge.
Feed Your Soul Nightlife
Unlike many rural communities, Bandera is just getting going at 8:00 pm, particularly on the weekends. Nightlife is a real thing here in historic proportion. Cowboys will pay good money to drink and dance, so there is a long history of Country’s biggest stars making their way to the Cowboy Capital. Many of the joints listed below serve food, but their specialty is good times.
Start at the apex of Texas honky tonks, Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Saloon. Arkey’s has been the home to a honky tonk since the 1920s and lays claim to being the oldest continually operating honky tonk in Texas. Willie, Robert Earl Keen, Charlie Robinson… the list is a long one. Legendary is an understatement. You can not say you have been to Bandera without spending time at Arkey Blue’s.
Just as cool is the 11th Street Cowboy Bar. People still arrive occasionally on horseback, and somehow, bras end up on the ceiling. There is an outdoor space and a cooled dance floor, a much-needed innovation in Texas. Wednesday nights are Steak Night, so if you bring it, they will grill it. It’s a blast.
First National Ice Haus is no honky tonk, but it often hosts concerts from honky tonk experts. A great way to spend an evening if you happen to be in town for someone like Django Walker, a recent show.
The Monkey Cage Saloon is a favorite for locals and two-wheelers. It is raucous and irreverent and has an outdoor space.
Kickback Korner is open late for good reason; no one will go home. Texas Ten loves that they combine well-known acts with up-and-comers. Try singer-songwriter Tuesday.
At Bandera Brewery, craft beer takes center stage. The acre space gives ample elbow room and a relaxed vibe for families, dates, and visitors. It makes everyone feel at home.
Red Horse Saloon, because who doesn’t love a red horse? Again, weekends feature up-and-coming bands that those who know want to jam with.
Boot and Saddle is fairly new to Bandera but has booked some impressive names so far. It is smoke-free, which many and Texas Ten appreciate.
The best dance floor in the county is likely at the Pipe Creek General Store and Dancehall. A little tamer experience and often booked for private events. Check out their calendar to see who is playing. You might two-step your way into something fun.
Where To Drop A Dime (Shop Local!)
Main Street is the main street. The thing to do is walk around and browse. Western wear of all types is featured along with Western furniture and artifacts. Western art and decor can be found in abundance. If you want to go modern, you can get quality tee shirts with Western sayings on them. If you are looking for Asian-inspired, Scandinavian, Paris runway, or the like, you can keep the wallet in your pocket. Western? We got it. Just a few highlights:
Texas Ten loves “Spirits of Texas.” First, it has to be made in Texas to reach the shelves. Second, you can sample the goods, including food and alcohol. Third, it is the official store of the late, great Kinky Friedman. Enough said.
The biggest draw for shoppers is the Bandera General Store. You have to love a place that advertises “gifts and boots.” But you have to really love an old-fashioned soda fountain. There are plenty of opportunities to “buy Bandera” here.
The distaff half of Texas Ten swooned over The Leather Bank (also in Fredericksburg). The leather products were great, but it was the Collins bags that spoke to her. Enid Collins came long before Kate Spade, Consuela, or Mark Jacobs. Her handbags are collectibles and evoke the mid-20th-century Texas Enid knew so well. Rather than scouring eBay, take a look at the in-store finds here.
SB Western Silver and Knives nails an interesting strategy by simultaneously appealing to women (jewelry) and men (knives). Keeps everyone engaged and encourages the “I get this if you get that” bargain any store owner loves.
The thing about Western is that it has to be lived in. The folks at Western Trail Antiques and Marketplace have done you the favor of finding all the lived-in stuff so it can be authentic in your home or on your body today.
How much do you think about salt? Texas Salt Company thinks about it almost all the time. And if salt is not at the top of their mind, pepper is. If you want to up your culinary game using variations of the basic ingredients, spend some time here.
Cowboys are tough and often sleep under the stars. But every one of them had a grandmother and a quilt that made them feel better, even if they are not vocal about it. Over in Medina, the tradition continues at Little Cottage Quilt Shop, one of the best we have seen.
If you need to spruce up your western style (or love someone who does), visit The Bonita Ranch Boutique, Estilo Jazzy, Gold Buckle Hatters, Hiyo Silver, Back in the Saddle, or many others.
That is just the tip of the iceberg.
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
Bandera has about a million cool places to stay. A million might be an overstatement, but if you are in the Best Western, you failed to plan ahead. We have already ticked off some of the more popular dude ranches and hunting lodges. In addition, these are some of the more interesting options:
Yurts on the River because who doesn’t love a good yurt?
Bootlegger’s Tavern because who doesn’t love a good moonshine?
Medina River Oaks Courts because who doesn’t love a fully renovated motor court? (In Medina)
Bandera Box Guesthouse because who doesn’t love a riverfront box?
Ride on Inn rentals because who doesn’t love a place where you can stable your horse or your motorcycle? (In Pipe Creek).
Flying L Ranch Resort because who doesn’t love a singing cowboy or a chuckwagon dinner after a round of golf?
The Last Outpost – Bandera, TX, because who doesn’t love a good outpost?
The Vaquero Hotel because what vaquero doesn’t love a good boutique hotel?
We could do this all day. The visitors center has already put in the work, so if none of these tickle your fancy, go here, close your eyes, and pick one.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
For those who come equipped with lodging, here is a partial listing:
RIVERSIDE RV PARK – Bandera, Tx
Lightning Ranch RV Park (Pipe Creek)
Lost Maples Country Store and RV Park (Vanderpool)
Special Events
In addition to the rodeos we already mentioned (Memorial Day Weekend and Labor Day Weekend, others as scheduled at the Mansfield Park Rodeo Arena), there are other tourist seasons in Bandera. The first Saturday of each month is an easy thing to remember for enjoying the market days on the courthouse lawn.
Mardi Gras is not just for Cajuns. The 11th Street Cowboy Mardi Gras is a big deal, scheduled in February each year.
Baderians? Banderites? Those from Bandera and guests also celebrate Christmas in a big way. A full-on live nativity, shopping explosion, and night parade will make you jolly.
The Hill Country is full of Germans, so Oktoberfest is a natural. Bandera Brewery is a convenient start and end point.
Appreciate all things wool and sheep with Wool Week.
On the other end of the spectrum, Bandera hosts several motorcycle rallies each year, usually in March and September when the weather is close to perfect.
Horse events pre-date cowboys by centuries, so maybe we can meld the two by having cowboys joust at the Ren Faire of Bandera.
No surprise that every July, Bandera stops down for the National Day of the American Cowboy.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
There is one course in the county, and it is a good one. The Flying L Golf Course with bent grass greens isone of the best in the area. If you want to work on your game, try the KRM3 Golf Ranch and Learning Center.
Getting to Bandera County
San Antonio is your touch point, as Bandera is one hour northwest of the Alamo via I-10, then SH 16 west. Bandera is at the intersection of SH 16 (east-west) and SH 173 (north-south). Looking at the big map, Bandera lies almost directly south of the geographic center in Brady, Texas by about two hours of drive time.
Flying to or near Bandera means San Antonio International or Austin Bergstrom International. Although the Austin Airport is twice as far (two hours versus one), it may offer more major airline options. Smaller craft will use the municipal airports in nearby Kerrville or Hondo.
History
Bandera County’s earliest inhabitants date back 6,000 to 10,000 years before the Conquistadores’ “first” expeditions. These earliest settlers lived in rock shelters and were later joined by nomadic Lipan Apaches and Comanches. Organized in 1846, Bandera County got its name from the Spanish word for flag. The Spanish were the first known “explorers” to this area in the eighteenth century, and although many amusing stories about the name’s origins are told, the actual account remains unknown. Most stories, however, have to do with ill-fated Spanish explorations, Indian raids, and red flags left to either mark boundaries never to cross or warnings of dangerous natives nearby. Though these stories’ validity is unknown, the area was called “Bandera Pass” by 1842 when the Texas Rangers encountered and defeated a band of local Comanches.
Though this area became diverse, the first Anglo settlers surveyed, platted and arrived in 1853. Using the available Cyprus trees for shingles, the firm James, Montel, and Company and Tejano Jose Policarpio “Polly” Rodrigue built a horse-powered sawmill and opened a commissary for the area. In 1854, a “Mormon Camp” was established by elder Lyman Wight and became home to 250 Mormon settlers in the area now covered by Medina Lake. These members built wood furnishings for a time, but when Wight died before seeing the culmination of his labors, most moved to Utah or the San Antonio area. Few descendants still live in Bandera today. In 1855, Polish immigrants arrived to work in the Sawmill, and a post office was built that same year. By 1856, Bandera was officially organized as a Texas County and the county’s largest town. The first schools were built in 1857 and maintained their frontier charm until after the Civil War. In 1861, Texas Ranger Jose Policarpio “Polly” Rodriguez, an early surveyor with the White Montel expedition, acquired 4,000 acres, livestock, and crops to establish the first Tejano settlement in the area.
Camp Verde, in the high plains of the Bandera Pass, was originally a Union encampment and was later overtaken by Confederate forces. This location remained a heavily guarded area by local minutemen during the Civil War, who kept watch against contraband and later during the cattle drives heading north into Kansas City. Due to its relative remoteness, the area was spared most of the action during the Civil War. Its towns continued to grow, and as time passed, Indian attacks dwindled.
During Reconstruction and beyond, the economy relied less on subsistence farming and more on cattle ranching. By 1870, Bandera County had become an important staging area for the cattle drives up the Western Trail. Ranchers, cowboys, and trail outfitters flocked to the area, and by 1880, this growing region had earned the name “The Cowboy Capital of the World.” The 1880s also ushered in a new era of wool production in Bandera, with sheep and goat ranching eventually outnumbering cattle. Mohair was shipped to San Antonio, but poor roads hindered the economy. Though attempts to introduce large-scale farming occurred, the rocky soil proved challenging. Cotton was introduced and grown for a while, but sheep ranching proved more profitable due to the soil and terrain. Despite its relative isolation, Bandera has been a tourist location since the 1920s when Cora and Ed Buck began taking in boarders on their ranch at Julian Creek. Since then, Bandera has been a resort destination, touting dance halls, restaurants, and dude ranches that employ many residents.
Since the earliest Mormon settlers and later Polish Catholics, religion has played an essential role in the lives of people in Bandera County. By the mid-1980s, there were fifteen churches of varying denominations in this County alone, with the largest denominations being Methodist, Catholic, and Baptist. Politics in Bandera County followed Democratic candidates fairly consistently through the twentieth century; however, by the early 1990s, Republican candidates were competitive in all races at the local and national levels.
The US Census Bureau counted 22,637 people in Bandera County as of July 1, 2023. Most of the population is white and non-Hispanic (74.7%) or Hispanic (21.6%). African Americans, Native Americans, and mixed ethnicity combine for the remaining 3.7%. The median income here is a healthy $69,830, with the residents occupying slightly more than eight people per square mile. Education rates for high-school diplomas and college degrees are slightly above state averages.
American singer-songwriter brothers Charlie and Bruce Robinson come from Bandera. Western Actor Rudy Robbins, historian and journalist J. Marvin Hunter, and muralist, painter, and printmaker Eva Auld Watson also hail from Bandera.
Primary Sources:
Polly Texas Pioneer Association
Texas Heritage Songwriters Association