Small Towns

Nestled in the lush part of Central Texas, there is plenty of greenery and flowers in season. A decent-sized lake is nearby. The town square and its surroundings exude small-town wholesomeness. You will be well-fed at Hugo’s 1876, Joe’s, Orsak’s, and Pivo’s Ice House. Live music is a regular occurrence. The Red & White Gallery is amazing, and the smaller studios offer excellent selections. Plenty of memorable lodging opportunities, in addition to the Grand Fayette Hotel, will grant you a good night’s rest.

Fayetteville is a two-hour drive (or less) from Houston, San Antonio, and Austin. If you want to spend a week there, it is even closer to several slightly larger, but still amazing, county seats, including La Grange, Brenham, and Bellville.

We often extoll the greatness of the Texas Hill Country. There are hamlets throughout the area that deserve your time and tourist dollar. Blanco is near the top of that list for a couple of reasons. It has a charming county square and a charming courthouse, but it is not the county seat, having lost that honor to Johnson City. Still, the square boasts numerous restaurants and shops, particularly for vintage enthusiasts. The Old 300 has a sterling reputation for its barbecue, and Redbud Cafe is a long-time standout, not only for its food but also for its selection of oilcloth table linens.

There is a working nine-pin bowling alley that pays homage to the area’s German heritage. The real reason to visit Blanco, however, is the spectacular outdoors. This part of the Hill Country boasts water and parks that show it off. Spend your daytime at Blanco State Park and Pedernales Falls State Park, which also offer great camping options. The Lower Colorado River Authority operates a third beautiful park, this one on the Pedernales. Finally, we note that wineries are taking over the Hill Country. We love our wine industry, but it does induce a bit of “same thing syndrome” in the towns at the center of the winery business. Blanco is not that. Instead, it is a chance to experience old-school, Hill Country charm.

We scheduled this list before the July 4th floods and never thought we would be writing about an area we love dearly with such a heavy heart. Our daughters each enjoyed some of the best times of their lives at Camp Honey Creek for Girls, and grew to be strong, independent women in no small part due to the lessons they learned there. While Honey Creek escaped the worst of the human and physical damage the storms brought, Honey Creek and the entire camp community, which means so much to the region, will bear the scars forever.

The hurt the entire state felt from the floods tells you something about how special the Hunt-Ingram area is. If there is a prettier stretch of river in Texas, I have not been to it. Those river stretches that are close in beauty tend to have large houses and extensively developed land. West Kerr County has struck the perfect balance of beauty and viability for decades. There are numerous river homes, vacation and primary residences, but they are understated and blend seamlessly into the riverfront. The campsites and small lodges have a 1950s sensibility. It has always been a place just to relax.

The floods have made it the wrong time to talk about the iconic businesses and traditions of the area. They are fighting with everything they have to preserve them for all of us. Check back before summer starts, and we’ll update you on their progress. Until then, keep the whole area in your prayers. Better yet, give them a helping hand.

I am unsure how Smithville became Smithville. It comes closest to being a movie set on our list because large parts of “Hope Floats” and “Tree of Life” were filmed there. We give it grace because movie people did not build Smithville; instead, they recognized what already existed.

Like Mark Twain’s Hannibal, Missouri, much of Smithville’s authenticity stems from a river. In this instance, the Colorado River forms Smithville’s northern boundary. While considerably smaller than the Mississippi, it is also considerably prettier. There are numerous kayaking and fishing opportunities here; cyclists also love the area. Hiking in nearby Bastrop and Buescher State Parks is also a tremendous opportunity to experience nature. If you are looking for a rural weekend with an active bent, there may be no place better.

If you burn calories, you can replace them. The Front Room Wine Bar and the Comfort Cafe are two of our favorites, but there are several more. Also, be sure to check out the Lost Pines Artisans Alliance for high-quality art and craft.

Gruene starts with historic Gruene Hall, the oldest and most storied dance hall in Texas, but there is much, much more to it. You can combine redneck and sophistication all weekend long here. The Winery on the Gruene and Hacienda Del Rio (a bespoke hotel) are a little bit sophisticated, tubing the River starting at Rockin R is a little bit redneck, while the Gristmill falls somewhere in between.
That is what makes Gruene perfect for the weekend getaway. Some will shop, some will read in the hotel library, some will float, some will sip, some will guzzle, and most will dance. Everyone should have fun.

Of my 25,000 saved pictures of Texas taken during our travels, this is one of my favorites, missing only our other daughter. I took it on Matagorda Beach during the week between Christmas and New Year’s when the temperature was winter-perfect for the beach. Note M’Lissa’s sweater, signifying we were within my sweatshirt weather range.

There is something magical about the beach in the winter, even better in the late afternoon, like here. If you cannot relax at that point, counseling or pharmaceuticals are in order; this is God doing his best. Truth be told, however, Texas beaches are not at the top of the beach food chain, primarily because of hard-packed, darker sand. South Padre is the exception, but it draws big crowds, even in winter.

We stumbled on Matagorda Beach, knowing it as a fishing community and thinking it would be similar to nearby Galveston. It is a fishing community; its beaches are not like those of Galveston (which we still love with our whole hearts). Softer, whiter sand and fewer people make this romantic and idyllic. It is hard to get to, which is a feature rather than a bug. The amenities and nightlife are subdued, although we had an excellent meal at the Waterfront Restaurant. If you want a restful beach getaway, this is the best Texas offers.

The 2020 census had Hico at a population of 1,335. The quality retail and dining to population ratio, however, is off the charts. As we have made clear before, we are in love with this gem in the middle of Texas. Hico is decidedly rural, but easily accessible, as U.S. Hwy 281 and State Hwy 6 intersect in town. The traffic patterns mirror those of earlier cattle drives and railways, which is how Hico became a mercantile center.

You can see that in the wide streets made that way so cowboys could drive animals to their destination. Back then, it was all saloons and trading posts. Today, it is fashion-forward western wear, quality ranch furnishings and accessories, and decorative arts. We can list fifteen stores worth your time, but be sure not to miss Blue Star Trading Company, Hill Country Dwellings (when open), and Punchy Vaquera.

The completion of the Midland Hotel added to the meal options and gave Hico a premier lodging alternative. Of course, no trip to Hico is complete without a pie from the acclaimed diner/cafe, the Koffee Kup Family Restaurant.

We visited Saint Jo on a more extended trip to far north Texas. Wichita Falls has its charms, but geography is not one of them. Less than 60 miles away, we expected the same in Montague County and Saint Jo, not understanding that their location in the Cross Timbers Region would mean gently rolling hills, populated with forests and soil that could hold enough water to turn the landscape into a lush green well into the summer. We VRBO’d in the renovated outbuildings of a ranch; it was gorgeous. When (not if) we return, we will take advantage of the stargazing and bubble tent camping at the All is Well Resort. To say the least, you will get your fill of natural beauty.

Combine your love of the outdoors with a passion for music at the Red River Station, a premier outdoor concert venue. While Red River does both genres – country and western – it specializes in Red Dirt country. Which is to say concerts are capital F fun. Saint Jo is an artist community. The Dean & Belvins Gallery hosts an impressive collection, with the space dedicated to the famed cowgirl artist Donna Howell-Sickles among the best in Texas. Defying the expected is the heart of a getaway weekend; Saint Jo is perfect for that.

We struggled with placement for this entry. Driftwood, Dripping Springs, and Wimberly have a combined population of close to 9,000 and are growing quickly. Although they are in the rural portion of Hays County (county seat San Marcos), they are Austin-adjacent, which is decidedly and almost comically urban. Ten years from now, the idea of this area being a country getaway will be absurd.

But you might be planning a getaway ten days from now. And in ten days, this area will knock your socks off. First, the scenery is breathtaking. Exhibits A and B are Jacob’s Well Natural Area and Blue Hole Regional Park, the mother lode of Texas swimming holes – when there is water. Beyond these well-known areas, just driving around the countryside will do your heart good.

Or get someone else to drive, so you can take full advantage of the wineries, distilleries, and breweries that dot the area. Wimberly, in particular, has a deserved reputation as an artist colony. Dripping Springs decided to master the art of patio dining, boasting a score of restaurants that do it superbly. There are so many glamping, VRBO, and lodge options that we are not going to list them. Holiday Homes gives you an example, though.

For just a brief moment in time, you can have the sophisticated country getaway right on the doorstep of Austin and San Antonio. Take advantage of it before the city gets there.

And now for something completely different. Most Texans will have to work to get here, so if you are looking for a weekend getaway, consider making it a three- or four-day weekend. Terlingua is the front door to Big Bend National Park, home to Texas’s strangest party, and a former mining outpost. Most of all, however, Terlingua is a place to escape.

If you have any luck, your phone will not work here, and you will stay in a weird and wonderful place. Regardless of your luck, you will see scenery and sunsets unlike anywhere in the state. Fine dining is not abundant, but our meal at the Starlight Theater Restaurant & Saloon was exceptional. Lajitas is next door with more refined lodging, dining, and one of the state’s best golfing experiences. Marfa and Marathon are both nearby when using West Texas measurement, if you want more culture.

But we suggest using as much of your time in the Big Bend as possible. Float it, hike it, climb it, and ride it. If you avoid the summer (you have to avoid the summer). The dry climate is warm during the day and cool at night, making it perfect for wearing your old sweatshirt. The ambient noise is wildlife, and the scenery constantly changes. You might end up like some of the escapees, making Terlingua a permanent home. More than likely, you will return refreshed, recharged, and more comfortable with yourself for having visited.