Field Guides
Johnson City, Texas
(Blanco COUNTY)
Lavender fields and crystal-clear rivers in picturesque Hill Country settings.
Highlights
Texas Ten christens Blanco County as the county “Where the Hill Country Begins.” This proclamation is more cultural than scientific. There is a geographic definition for what constitutes the Hill Country that largely depends on the Edwards Plateau. Mention the Hill Country to a Texan, however, and you are apt to get a description that is much more about ranching, beer, and open spaces than it is about geology. Hard-working but chill people may sum it up. The Edwards Plateau counties to the east of Blanco County are awesome but crowded and growing more so. Almost seven million people will be living between San Antonio and Austin by 2030.
If you want that relaxed, fun weekend with very little chance of a road rage incident, start your search in Blanco County. Johnson City is the county seat, and Blanco was once the county seat. They are roughly equal in semi-rural populations and considerable charm. They are the only two cities in the county (Round Mountain is a town, and there are several unincorporated places, including one of our favorite names, “Blowout.”). But do not sleep on Hye, Texas, a tiny outpost with more wineries than they know what to do with.
Johnson City has international fame as the home of Lyndon B. Johnson, the 36th President. LBJ was born in Stonewall in neighboring Gillespie County but he spent his youth in Johnson City, a town named for his grandfather. The area is tough to make a living from but beautiful to the extreme as evidenced by the presence of two state parks in the county, Blanco State Park and Pedernales Falls State Park.
Blanco County has great history, great food, great beer and wine, and, most of all, the great outdoors. For a deeper understanding of the place, Texas Ten highly recommends the first volume of Robert Caro’s LBJ biography series, The Path to Power.
The Blanco County Courthouse
The yin and yang nature of Johnson City and Blanco is best illustrated by the cities’ dueling courthouses. The “Old Blanco County Courthouse” came first, erected in 1885-1186. It was not the official courthouse for long, as a county election moved the county seat to Johnson City in 1890. For decades, however, the citizens put the old courthouse to good use, including serving as a school. Gradually the building fell into disrepair until, in the 1980s, a rancher purchased the building from the County with the idea of restoring it to its former glory.
To the surprise of many, the rancher intended to restore the building at his ranch after removing it brick-by-brick. After the details became public, an aroused citizenry stopped the move and saw the building restored through a public-private partnership. Today the building serves primarily as a public events venue. The structure is admirable, so much so that other architects stole the plans and used them for unauthorized near copies in Callahan, Concho, Mills, And Sutton Counties. Plagiarism was not that unusual in the late 1800s as the Blanco plans had come from Tom Green County.
The combination of a classic design and the absence of regular use created the biggest opportunity for “Old Blanco.” The building was used for the courthouse scenes in the 2010 remake of True Grit.
Blanco’s version may be more famous, but the business gets done in Johnson City. The Classical revival structure is built of limestone, which is not surprising, as the contractor had moved to Texas to help build the state’s capitol building. It, too, is a beautiful building, and Blanco is blessed to have two iconic structures.
Things To See And Do
Start with the history. LBJ was a fascinating, complicated person whose life in this area shaped him in large part (Again, the Caro book). The Lyndon B. Johnson National Historic Site is divided into two parts: his boyhood home in Johnson City and his ranch in Stonewall. You can visit the boyhood home at 200 E Elm St in Johnson City daily. You can still visit the ranch.
There are three other museums of note. The Science Mill Museum in Johnson City is a privately funded, STEM-focused, hands-on experience for children of all ages. Texas Ten says that because when we visited with our grandson, we had to be dragged out. The town’s 1880 historic feed mill provides the infrastructure, and the transformation is stunning. Across the street, there is the Texas Vintage Motorcycle Museum with pristine examples of bikes from the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. The museum showcases the collection of Jordon Massey and includes plenty of vintage leather as well.
In Blanco, the impact of science on obsolete technology can be experienced firsthand at The Buggy Barn Museum. The museum is specific and has to be the best of its kind. In addition, the museum has a movie set in the back that replicates a late 19th-century Texas village, making it great for photoshoots.
The Pedernales and Blanco rivers are the biggest draw to Blanco County. One crucial note here. The Texan pronunciation of “Pedernales” is actually “Purd-n-Alice.” Either we can’t spell, or we can’t speak, but no matter, it is still gorgeous. Be forewarned-these stretches of the two rivers are not serviced by commercial tube/raft companies. With the right amount of rain the current can be strong with serious rapids. So you need to either know what you are doing, bring a private guide, or stick to the swimming holes. Both Blanco State Park and Pedernales Falls State Park have great camping and hiking options as well. The Lower Colorado River Authority operates a third beautiful park, this one on the Pedernales.
SH-290 runs from Johnson City through Fredericksburg. The route is now justly famous as the Texas Wine Highway. Several wineries in or near Johnson City and also in the area known as Hye are great places to spend your time and cash. Finally, the quaint shops and thoughtful restaurants allow the weekend warrior to unwind and enjoy.
A mere six miles south of Blanco sits an absolute Texas icon, the Twin Sisters Dance Hall. Over 150 years old and still going strong. If there is a public dance while you are there, you owe it to yourself to experience this slice of Texas history.
There are no big lakes in Blanco County, so most of the fishing is done in the river. The park sites are a good place to start. Hunting, however, is a big deal. The Hill Country is prime deer, turkey, and hog country. On top of that there are many ranches stocking exotics. Hunting leases are at a premium, so plan ahead or look for a private hunt from Blanco Cattle and Exotics, Shirley Ranch, or Sandy Ranch Outfitters.
Food, Drinks, and Music (Eat Local!)
Johnson City employs more chefs per capita anywhere other than Paris (France). Plenty of people are taking their shot at the relaxed but great restaurant vibe. Refugees from Austin is Texas Ten’s guess.
Category 1 is the restaurant attached to a brewery, winery, or distillery. Pecan Street Brewing on the square in Johnson City was first and is probably still the best. They have a World Beer Cup medal, so it must be true. Indoor/outdoor seating, a varied menu, friendly staff, and good beers. They have the concept down.
But note we said probably still the best. There is only so much drinking and eating we can do. So you need to check out these other private label, alcohol-related food joints and report back: Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa, 290 Locale Winery and Pizzeria, Untamed Wine Estates, and Silver Dollar Winery and Bistro.
Category 2 is the “Just plain good eats” division, where we have cafes, roadhouses, burgers, and a complete absence of pretension. Hill Country Cupboard is the wily veteran. Many Texans know of the Cupboard just from flying by on US Hwy 281 and noticing the “World’s Best Chicken Fried Steak-Nearly 3 Dozen Sold” sign. It’s time you went in….or try your luck at Fat Boy Burgers, Nice N Easy (mostly a bar, but with bar food), Ronnie’s Ice House Barbecue, or JC’s Smoke and Pies.
Category 3 is for “it sounds simple, but we are showing off just a little. PS. You might notice it when it comes time to pay. PSS It’s worth it.” Proof and Cooper at the Lumberyard, Cast Iron Punk, or Bryan’s on 290.
Category 4 is “Tex-Mex.” Look for the food trucks, and do not be afraid of them. They are restaurants-in-waiting and need your help to grow up strong. But if you insist on a roof, El Agave and El Charro are your options.
Category 5 is “Other.” The Jittery Biscuit looks to be a great food/coffee truck for breakfast. If you are VRBOing with a group, you should consider Herencia Cuisine by Cristophe, a private chef/catering option.
Blanco has the same categories (these two are like fraternal twins).
In the “attached-to-an-alcohol-maker” category, there is the SpeakEasy Grill at Andalusia Whiskey, the food truck burgers at Real Ale Brewing & Spirits, and Texas Cannon Brewing Co.
For reliable plain eating, the Redbud Cafe is a long-time favorite for locals and travelers on SH 281. The oil tablecloths remind you of grandma, and so do the sandwiches. The Bistro at the River, Fat Bottom Grill in the Iron Horse Saloon, and Blanco River Pizza will all serve you well.
“A little bit upscale, but you can still wear jeans” covers the Uptown Blanco Restaurant, Old 300 BBQ, and Chess Club Steakhouse.
Tex-Mex at El Agave, Rio Blanco Café (Mexican and Caribbean), Hacienda El Charro, and Taqueria Lencha.
“Other” is a cornucopia of treats. It is hard to miss and harder not to stop at Oro Blanco Italian Creamery on 281. Or the Deutsch Apple Bakery for world-class apple pie. Or the Fairview Coffee Shop for incredible biscuits. Or the Buchanan Coffee House for a memorable egg croissant. And “really other” describes the Blanco Feed Store, a healthy eatery all day, a play space, a hang-out space, and a bicycle repair place.
Where To Drop A Dime (Shop Local!)
Blanco Feed Store
You cannot get anything you want in Johnson City or Blanco. But if you are looking for antique or vintage goods, particularly for decor, there is an amazing breadth of options at
Cranberry’s Antiques (Blanco)
West End Co. (Blanco)
You Need It (Blanco)
The Textile Studio (Blanco)
The Olde Blanco Emporium (Blanco)
Inside the emporium is the ultra-cool Tenuta Blanco Italian Wine Bar and Grocer
Vintage 205 (Johnson City)
Black Spur Emporium (Johnson City)
Old Annex Market (Johnson City)
The Lumberyard Complex (Johnson City)
For actual art other than farmhouse chic:
Brieger Pottery (Blanco)
Christensen Gallery (Blanco)
Echo in Blanco (Blanco)
Art Beat Gallery (Johnson City)
A Smith Gallery (Johnson City)
Lee Casbeer Fine Art and LMC Murals (Johnson City)
JL Haynes (Johnson City inside the Motorcycle Museum)
If you need a wardrobe update, that is on the agenda at
Herb’s Hat Shop (Blanco)
On the Square (Blanco)
Rain Bird Gallery (Blanco)
Shops at 1119 Main (Blanco)
We Got It (Blanco)
Oak & Olive Boutique (Johnson City)
The Haloed Hippie (Johnson City)
Or if you need a bottle (or a case) of Texas wine or spirits, you are covered at
First, the easy part. The distilleries can be found in or near Blanco and are some of Texas’ finest. Andalusia Whiskey Company, Milam & Greene Whiskey Distillery, and Round Mountain Distilling take a bow. In Hye, Garrison Brothers Distillery makes great Texas bourbon.
As for wineries, they are multiplying. Here is close to a comprehensive list
Esperanza Winery (Blanco)
La Vie Estate Winery (Blanco)
Bingham Family Vineyards (Hye)
Blue Lotus Winery (Hye)
Calais Winery (Hye)
Coordinates Vineyard (Hye)
Covington Cellars (Hye)
French Connection Wines (Hye)
Horn Winery (Hye)
Hye Meadow Winery (Hye)
Pontotoc Picnic Table (Hye)
Ron Yates Wine (Hye)
William Chris Vineyards (Hye)
Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa (Johnson City)
Crowson (Johnson City)
Elisa Christopher Wines (Johnson City)
Farmhouse VIneyards (Johnson City)
Lewis Wines (Johnson City)
Lost Draw (Johnson City)
Pebble Rock Cellars (Johnson City)
Portree Cellars (Johnson City)
Sandy Road Vineyards (Johnson City)
Siboney Cellars (Johnson City)
Silver Dollar Winery (Johnson City)
Tatum Cellars (Johnson City)
Twelve Fires Winery (Johnson City)
Texas Hills Vineyard (Johnson City)
Untamed Wine Estates (Johnson City)
Vinovium (Johnson City)
Westcave Cellars (Johnson City)
290 Wine Castle (Johnson City)
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
The Blanco County Inn has a hip mid-century modern feel and looks to be quirky and fun. The Blanco River Hotel is currently being renovated and will be great when the comfort level meets its charm level. If you want to be on the river, try the Blanco Riverside Cottages for a couple or the villas for a family or group.
In Johnson City, you can glamp at Johnny Yurts. Or, glamp with wine at Twelve Fires Winery. Truthfully though, Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa looks to be the sort of place you check in on Friday afternoon intending to see the whole area, and you check out Sunday afternoon having never left the grounds and are happy you did.
In Hye, the folks who came up with the Pontotoc Picnic Table seem to have done an amazing job.
If none of those suggestions work, there are oodles of short-term rentals custom fit to your needs.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
Special Events
There is never a bad time to visit Blanco County, but if you have flexibility, you might want to plan a trip around one of their special events.
The Blanco County Fair and Rodeo happens in the middle of August every year.
Blanco hosts the Lavender Fest each June. Fending off claims of flower discrimination, the city offers the Marigold Festival in mid-October.
Johnson City really shows out with the Jazz and Arts Festival the first weekend of October. Christmas on the Square dominates the month of December.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
In Blanco County, Vaaler Creek Golf Course, a highly rated public course, is your only option. The Hill Country is a natural setting for golf, and many more courses can be found in the surrounding counties.
Getting to Blanco County
Texas Ten loves SH 281 as the alternative to I-35 for north/south driving. One reason is that you drive right through Johnson City and Blanco. More specifically, Blanco is about 50 miles due north of the Alamo in San Antonio and Johnson City, maybe 10 miles farther. Johnson City is at the intersection of SH 281 and the east/west SH 290 out of Austin; Google Maps says it is an hour and six minutes from the State Capitol building, but Austin traffic can vary wildly. More broadly, Johnson City is an hour and 40 minutes southeast of the true geographic center of the state in Brady, Texas.
If you are flying, either San Antonio International or Austin Bergstrom International offers full-service alternatives. Smaller craft can try the municipal airports in Fredericksburg, New Braunfels, or the Bulverde Airpark, all less than a 45-minute drive.
History
This area’s earliest inhabitants were the Lipan Apaches’ ancestors, who were here around 1150. Dinosaur tracks embedded in the Blanco Riverbed were discovered, as well as Indian mounds and other archaeological sites found downstream. By the 1800s, Comanches claimed most of the land within the present-day boundaries of Blanco County and had frequent contact with Indian fighters who had come to clear the land for settlements.
Though there was at one point a proposal to build a Spanish mission in this area, no known explorations existed in this region until around 1749. At that point, prospectors, Mexicans, and Indians began to frequent these parts. Still, land grants were not issued until 1826 when Benjamin R. Milam brought 300 families to raise cattle and begin to settle the land between the Guadalupe and Colorado rivers. As settlement continued, Comanches, along with other “hostile” Apaches, raided white settlers, but they were not deterred.
Officially formed on February 12, 1858, Blanco County was named after the Blanco River, which crosses the county. Part of the act that issued the county be officially established also required that the county name be called Blanco. Its name comes from the white (blanco in Spanish) limestone along the banks and beneath the riverbed. The county boundaries and seats were changed several times between 1858 and 1879 when the boundary settled where it continues to be situated with the County Seat in Johnson City, named after James Polk Johnson, who had petitioned, along with some friends, for the county seat to be moved over 15 years before.
By 1860, Blanco County had been settled primarily by former residents of Tennessee and Alabama as well as immigrants from Germany who had come to farm and ranch. Indian corn and wheat were the dominant crops grown in the early 1860s, though tobacco, cotton, and rye were also grown on 6400 acres granted to “improve” the land. Cattle and sheep were raised on the land as well, and by 1860, there were over 19,000 sheep in Blanco County.
Though there were some enslaved people and Southern sympathizers in the county, the majority of residents were Unionists. Northern and European settlers in the area helped convince residents to reject the secession vote from 170 to 86 when it came to Blanco. By 1870, freed slaves chose to stay in the area and established a Freedman’s Colony near Blanco.
Though the Civil War negatively affected the economy, the most significant loss to the county after the war was land. The Texas Legislature was busy redrawing county lines, including those of Blanco. This is the point at which James Polk Johnson and his friends launched their hotly contested campaign to settle the county once and for all. By 1891, Johnson City had become the seat of government.
The number of schools, manufacturing plants, farms, and ranches steadily increased, and by 1900, the economy had fervently recovered and increased. Cotton production steadily rose, and cash crops were diversified to include the harvesting of fruit and nut trees. By 1920, plum and pecan trees had become a significant economic resource for the area. Despite the success of these new farm products, the land was better suited for cattle and sheep ranching. Wool production in this region grew, and by the Great Depression, sheep and cattle had helped to keep the county afloat.
In 1940, Lyndon Baines Johnson, a good friend of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, encouraged the area’s development through New Deal Projects like the Civilian Conservation Corps, which enabled full electric power to the area, paving roads and improving state parks. Though many had suffered through the Depression, these improvements increased the area’s overall population. The number of farms dropped during WWII, but the numbers rose again.
Today, Blanco County’s primary crops are oats, peaches, and pecans. Ranching relies on sheep and cow raising and their byproducts. Aside from agribusiness, economic benefits to residents today result in tourism work due to the state park attractions in the area.
According to the 2020 Census, Blanco County’s population is 11,374. Of this number, 81% are white, 12% are two or more races, 6% are Hispanic, and less than 1% are Black or African American. The per capita income is $51,968, and 30.6%of the population has a bachelor’s degree or higher.
Blanco County is proud of its residents who have gone on to seek fame and fortune, such as actors Madeleine Stowe and Brian Benben, retired MLB first baseman Willie Clay and Cattleman, and American Businessman Samuel Ealy Johnson, Sr.
Primary Sources:
Texas State Historical Society
Ten Famous People From the Hill Country
OTHER: BLANCO