Hotels

A hotel fit for a queen in every sense of the phrase, as the Adophus hosted Her Royal Highness Queen Elizabeth II. At least three presidents have signed the guest register, too. Which is what beer magnate Adolphus Busch saw when he built his masterpiece in the early 20th century. Adolphus made his fortune in St. Louis, but he was an early booster of Dallas, correctly seeing it as a city of the future.

The Adolphus played, and is playing, a vital role in that future. For the first ten years of its existence, it was the tallest building in Texas. It sits almost in the center of downtown on Commerce Street. It has always managed to be elegant and Texan at the same time, as best exemplified by having The French Room and (Walt Garrison’s) Rodeo Bar as dining options. The 2018 renovation kept the hotel at a first-class standard. 

Today, the Adolphus is a steady hum of business during the week that transforms into a party song on the weekends. Christmas is the best time to be there, but having a bad day at the Adolphus is hard. Budweiser is available, but we recommend a Lone Star or a Shiner.

Nacogdoches is one of Texas’s oldest towns, set in one of the prettiest locations in the state. The town is a charming mix of the Victorian-style South and the rugged frontier. Dropped right in its heart, however, is the most surprising hotel in Texas. The Fredonia is a mid-century masterpiece, where one expects to see the Rat Pack hanging out at the bar.

The Fredonia is attached to the city’s convention center thanks to Jack McKinney’s efforts, who spearheaded the city’s efforts to build the hotel. When we say “city efforts,” we mean it; the capital investment was made directly by the citizens of Nacogdoches. It was not a private company. Those efforts continue to the present, as a completed restoration in 2017 ensures that the hotel meets the needs of current travelers. 

We love the cabana-style pool and the One Republic steakhouse on site. If you are wondering about the funny name, Fredonia (and “One Republic”) refers to the state’s first rebellion from Mexican rule. Haden Edwards, the empresario who settled Nacogdoches declared the area the independent Fredonia Republic in 1826. That lasted less than a year, but it was a start.  We think the hotel perfectly captures the spirit of McKinney and Edwards, as well as Sinatra, Martin, and Davis.

A respite from the hot and dusty? A getaway from the meat on the hoof? Look no further than the lovingly restored Barfield Hotel in downtown Amarillo. The Barfield is luxuriously appointed, has tremendous dining and even better drinking, and centers Amarillo’s downtown revival. But all of that pales next to its story.

The hotel began life in 1927 as the brainchild and passion project of Melissa Dora Olive-Eakle. Oliver-Eakle was a wealthy widow who was not content to count her savings. Instead, she carried on business full-tilt, often signing her papers “M.D.” to conceal her gender. If you crossed her, she carried a Derringer. She was full of contradictions, chief among them her public stance favoring prohibition against the speakeasy in her hotel. 

Eventually, the hotel converted to offices and then to a vacant building. For 40 years, pigeons were the only guests. In 2021, however, the hotel reopened in all its glory. Details matter, and the new owners got every single detail right. Those details include having a speakeasy as an additional bar. The Barfield is a wonder and the best value for a luxury hotel in the state. 

No Texas hotel embodies the city surrounding it more than the Austin Motel. Tidal waves of California money may be eroding Austin’s hipster vibe, but a weekend at the Austin Motel conjures some of the old magic. The grounds are relaxed and large, with plenty of room to converse with friends or read a book.  The pool is the center of everything and stays busy during the summer as Austinites can purchase memberships. The people watching is tremendous. The location on South Congress cannot be beaten, particularly if you love late nights. The rooms are delightful throwbacks to the late 60s and early 70s. 

Austin Motel is just one of several Bunkhouse Group properties in the Capitol City. Frankly, some of those inns and many more in town pamper you more in the traditional sense. But this one is quintessential Austin. 

As one of the nation’s premier tourist destinations, great hotels abound in the River City. The St. Anthony holds court downtown as an institution as much as a hotel.  We particularly love the decor, which subtly but persistently references the culture and history right outside the door. The rooms are large and comfortable, the dining and drinking are on point, and the balcony-level pool is exceptional. 

We also love the location because it is close to everything. However, the St. Anthony is not on the Riverwalk, which we like because the Riverwalk can be very crowded. The St. Anthony is relaxed, but the fun is just steps away.  

Hotels are justly proud when a president stays overnight. At the Houstonian, a president lived on site for 37 years. We do not want to overstate things. For 12 of those years, George H.W. Bush was often in Washington, D.C., first at the Naval Observatory and then at the White House. He also had a small place in Kennebunkport, Maine. Still, during all that time, the Bushes’ official residence was Suite 271 of the Houstonian Hotel. For a nominal fee, you can stay in their suite now.

Like many of the hotels on our list, the Houstonian enjoyed a relatively recent renovation. It is elegant, but the real trick the Houstonian pulls off is that it has everything you could want without being an immense hotel. Instead, the Houstonian is part of a larger club that gives guests access to amenities far beyond what is available in comparable digs. The property is lush and gorgeous, so you never have to leave if you do not want to. 

It is one thing to give excellent service to a president. I will forever be indebted to Houston’s other venerable inn, The Lancaster, for service above and beyond rendered to a nobody. True story here. The Lancaster is downtown and very convenient to the Federal Courthouse. As a young lawyer in the early 1990s, I checked into the Lancaster one Sunday afternoon for a Monday morning hearing.  

It is hard to say what I was more impressed with: the Lancaster for being such a classy place or me for being there. I hung out, had a drink, and then had a great meal. As I prepared for the hearing on Sunday night, I somehow realized that I had left my dress shoes in Dallas.  Although superstar lawyers later pulled off wearing sneakers in court, I was tentative about trying my luck with this particular federal judge.  Somehow, late on a Sunday evening, the Lancaster located size 14 lace-ups that were a key to my victory the following day.

That story encapsulates the Lancaster. In short, it is a world-class hotel with a personal touch. 

Marathon is a small, beautiful town in the middle of Alfred Gage’s old ranch. Built in 1927, the hotel welcomed ranch guests in comfort, although Gage only lived a year after the hotel opened. For instance, Zane Grey wrote novels here. Renovated in 1978, the guests now stay in relaxed style and high comfort. Alfred Gage’s guests ate well, but probably not as well as you can at the 12 Gage Restaurant. Nor did Alfred’s friends take the time for yoga or other wellness practices now available at the world-class spa. 

The rooms are western luxury at its best. However, the true star of the Gage is the beautiful grounds set in a desert climate. Enjoying a fire on a cool fall night while relaxing in a sturdy wooden chair is about as good as it gets. The Gage is unlikely to be on your way to anywhere; it is a worthy destination all by itself. 

The Fort Worth Stockyards are having a moment. Although there is a nasty fight brewing over future development, no one can deny that phase one produced a Disneyland for Cowboys. Every western wear company known to man; great restaurants, bars, dives, taverns, and dancehalls of all shapes and sizes; and a John Wayne Museum to boot. Oh, and lots of rodeo. In the middle of it all is the Drover Hotel, a symbol of the New West if there ever was one.

We are suckers for modern Western art, and the Drover has stunning pieces all over the place. We are suckers for well-made drinks in a crowded bar with tons of friendly people. Check. We are suckers for a relaxing pool with a great view. Yep. Suckers for threadcount, for medium-rare steak perfectly done, for a stumble in location from the concert, for sturdy and comfortable furniture, and for plenty of activities on the grounds. Roger that to each. The Drover is Bud and Sissy after they won the lottery; Urban Cowboys, just having fun. The only sour note is that on many weekends, you might have to win the lottery to stay there.

Growing up, I remember Pearl beer as a good starter brand for youngsters, a good economy brand for cash-strapped collegians, and a good workingman’s brand for the weekend. It is ironic that the former Pearl Brewery is now the epitome of luxury. 

Hotel Emma anchors San Antonio’s high-flying Pearl district in the old brewery. With apologies to Chip and Joanna, the Emma is the greatest fixer-upper in the history of fixer-uppers. San Antonio’s history infuses the place. The Sternewirth Bar is large and cozy. World-class restaurants are in the hotel and right outside the door. Interesting shopping and tons of outdoor space to play are right there. The service defines impeccable. 

Something about the building’s thick walls and German heritage oozes into the rooms. As busy as the area is, calm is the predominant emotion inside your room. The appointments do not overwhelm you, but they are on par with anyplace that we have ever stayed. We also love the height of the lobby area, the fact that guests can access an actual library, and a million other things. 

San Antonio has always been a host city for many who admired it. The Alamo and the Riverwalk are widely known and admired. For a long time, however, there was a sense that Texas had its “real culture” and “real business” in Houston, Dallas, and Austin. The Pearl District changed the way San Antonio thinks about itself. Spend a night at the Emma and you will see why.