Waco, Texas
(McLennan COUNTY)

The McLennan County courthouse is beautiful and has its share of stories to tell. It is a fine example of neoclassical architecture designed by James Riley Gordon and built in 1901. Themis, the Greek goddess of divine order, stands atop the dome of the building. Themis holds a double-edged sword representing the law as the chief instrument of justice and, in her left hand, holds aloft a pair of scales symbolizing the weighing of facts in the balance by the courts. 

Many notable cases have taken place in this courthouse. Clyde Barrow, of Bonnie and Clyde fame, was tried in 1930. The first televised murder trial in the nation took place in the courthouse in 1955.

Read the whole section. We promise to give you the Magnolia information. 

The Great Outdoors 

The most overlooked aspect of McLennan County is a spectacular variety of outdoor options. Start with Cameron Park near downtown Waco. One of the largest city parks in Texas fronts the Brazos River and includes its confluence with the Bosque River (thus the many references to the “Twin Rivers of Waco”). You will see all manner of outdoor activity. Many anglers try their luck from the shore as well as in small fishing craft. The park offers a scenic and challenging disc golf course, hosting leagues and tournaments regularly. The Cameron Park Zoo is on the grounds and has a deserved reputation as a scenic, educational, and caring habitat on par with major zoos. The apex of the park is Lover’s Leap, which provides spectacular vistas for photographers and a great setting for marriageproposals. The large playground, splash pad, and picnic facilities fill the park during weekend afternoons. An excellent animal sculpture trail combines exercise, education, and art. But the biggest highlight is the maze of trails that draws mountain bikers and hikers from near and far.  

Lake Waco is the largest lake in the United States that lies entirely within the boundaries of one city. A Corps of Engineers lake means an undisturbed shoreline, so fishing and boating are scenic and varied. The lake serves as a water supply to the area and as flood control for the Bosque, so the water level can vary significantly from season to season. There are four public parks around the lake, plus private marinas.   

McLennan County is also home to Texas’ first state park, Mother Neff State Park. Visitors can enjoy lots of scenery and great easy or moderate hiking there.  

The county is home to another first. In 1978, McLennan County locals discovered extensive evidence of Columbian Mammoths. The National Park Service developed the Woolly  Mammoth National Monument at the discovery site. “Monument: really isn’t the right word-there is a great education center on-site that explains the gigantic beasts and the story of the fossil’s discovery. Anyone interested in history, the natural world, or just beautiful surroundings will love this park.   

Tonkawa Falls in Crawford is one of the state’s premier swimming holes—a picnic and photo paradise.  

If the natural surroundings are not enough, Waco offers two great man-made outdoor attractions. Waco Surf is an extraordinary waterpark with slides, a lazy river, and, best of all, man-made waves that are more than suitable for surfing. Believe it or not, surfers worldwide come to the surf park for practice and skill sharpening—so much so that planning months ahead is necessary for grabbing a wave. The Hawaiian Falls Water Park chain offers a more traditional but just as thrill-packed experience.  

Texas’ Favorite Soft Drink 

Texans have long battled intense cravings at “10, 2, & 4,” the traditional hours for a Dr. Pepper. Texas Ten will not tell the whole story here, but you can learn about it at The Dr. Pepper Museum, a perennial favorite for visitors. As a bonus, the museum is (maybe) haunted, with the opportunity to meet friendly ghosts on an occasional basis.  

 Texas’ Favorite Hard Drink 

Well, Tito’s and Shiner might disagree, but a stop at Balcones Distillery for a tour and some time in the tasting room to acquaint yourself with their world-class whiskey, rye, and bourbon is a must. The problem is summoning the willpower to leave.  

World Class Crafts and Woodwork  

Texas Ten struggled to classify the Homestead– an experience, a shopping destination, and a place to get great vittles. So you will see it in a couple of spots. This religious-based community prizes self-sufficiency and the ability to produce form and function with one’s own hands. You can take lessons, just watch, or purchase a wide variety of exquisite crafts and agricultural products. Homestead is great for an hour or a day. 

Baylor-Centric and Museums  

Baylor University is the economic driver for the region and provides many great recreation and educational opportunities for visitors. Baylor competes in the Big 12 sports conference. The Bears football squad has been widely erratic over the last fifteen years, with performances that range from national powerhouse to conference doormat. Every fall, hopes spring eternal, and McLane Stadium is a great place to enjoy the pageantry and excitement of college football. The Bears basketball teams, both male and female, have been much more consistent, and both have hung national championship banners. The brand new Foster Pavillion gives both Baylor fives a raucous home-court advantage. Baylor has great facilities for baseball, softball, soccer, tennis, track and field, and equestrian teams.  Whatever your fancy, if a sport is in season, you can enjoy the “thrill of victory and the agony of defeat.” 

 On campus or very near it, Baylor and Waco have a variety of entertaining museums. The Texas Ranger Hall of Fame tells the tale of one of the most storied law enforcement agencies in the country. The Texas Sports Hall of Fame brings back the old Southwest Conference and many other Texas legends. The Mayborn Museum explains our natural surroundings with tangible exhibits that make geology interesting to anyone. If you have children with you, the Mayborn Museum regularly rotates exhibits. Anyone from toddlers to early teens will have something that captivates them. The Armstrong-Browning collection gives romantics goosebumps with “How do I love thee, let me count the ways…” as its jumping-off point. 

Waco Hall on campus is also the home to the Waco Symphony Orchestra. Smaller theaters allow for high-quality music, stage plays, and lectures.   

Magnolia (We Promised, We Delivered) 

Many, many people want the whole Magnolia experience. Joanna and Chip have their own highly effective social media team, so Texas Ten will stick to the highlights. The first thing to remember is that Joanna and Chip are closed on Sunday except for their hotel and its restaurants. So, if you want everything Magnolia on a weekend visit, plan accordingly. On any given Sunday, one can see disappointed tourists taking pictures of “The Silos,” obviously wishing they could get to the goodies inside.  

The second thing to understand is that the Joanna and Chip experience is a bit far-flung. The Silos is the crown jewel, and it sits squarely in Waco’s downtown. The Silos’ complex includes the Silos themselves, which are just giant farmhouse-chic decorations. The grounds include the large retail store and several smaller specialty stores (our favorite is Magnolia Home, Joanna’s furniture shop where she shows off the full extent of her design chops). The interior grounds for the Silos complex provide plenty of walking around diversions, with the Wiffle Ball field getting the most notoriety. Also on site are the bakery (the muffins are awesome) and the Magnolia Press coffee shop.  

The Gaines’ origin story includes the Little Shop on Bosque, which is five miles or so away from the Silos. You need to check ahead to see if the Little Shop on Bosque is open. The Magnolia Table restaurant can be found in the other direction on the circle. The newest addition to the repertoire is Hotel 1928, an elegant hotel with upscale restaurants and a fantastic rooftop bar. Finally, evidence of Joanna’s and Chip’s handiwork pops up all around Waco and McLennan County. There is the renovated castle, scores of “fixed up houses,” and the Gaines’ personal residences- both farm and lake house. (Plenty of tourists find these last two, but Texas Ten is not going to contribute to the potential invasion of privacy. But we’re not judging either). There are great tour options to take it all in. 

McLennan County has long offered an unusually rich “dive eating scene” with a disproportionate number of great places to get street tacos, memorable burgers, and tremendous chicken-fried steak. As of late  (the last decade), the food scene has matured. Thankfully, the old favorites remain. Let’s do a tour of both.  

The Casual/Upscale Date Night Eateries. 

In no particular order: 

Texas Ten loves Milo for its sophisticated take on the classics, great bar, and all-weather patio. The menu is slightly limited, but there is still something for everyone. Sunday brunch is a specialty.  

A new entrant that blew us away with both food and fun is Red Herring, which features a shareable menu that fuses Mediterranean with other cultures. It has a great bar in the restaurant and on the roof. Red Herring: an ambiance through the roof. It’s enjoyable for larger parties.  

The Brasserie at Hotel 1928 and Bertie’s on the Rooftop at the same hotel mark Joanna Gaines’ entry into the better dining scene, and she knocks it out of the park, of course. The Brasserie is the more upscale with the larger menu, but both have all the Joanna touches. Given Gaines’ popularity, book ahead.  We already mentioned Magnolia Table but note that the Ganes’ recently opened this spot for dinner also.  

Maria Mezcaleria offers elevated Mexican cuisine, a mescal-based bar, and patio dining on busy Austin Avenue. It is a winner.   

The best Italian is the subject of fierce debate. Texas Ten declares it a delicious tie between Di Campli’s and Moroso. Both have cozy atmospheres, both have tasty, signature dishes, both have tremendous wine lists, and both will leave you happy. Others love Pignetti’s, which has the benefit of being within walking distance from most downtown hotels. Likewise, Portofino’s traditional Italian always draws a crowd.   

Pivovar is a Czech-inspired masterpiece. Its great menu features interesting traditional European plates with a Texas twist. The on-site brewery and top-notch bar make sure the libations match the foodstuffs. It’s another great place for groups. 

1424 Bistro is a charming, smaller restaurant that has done upscale date-night/old-friend-get-together for a long time, and they do it well. A Mediterranean focus. 

Brazos Landing likely has the best view in town, with a river deck, and close to McLane Stadium. Traditional American with a hefty sprinkling of Cajun. 

If you are a Club Corp member, the Baylor Club overlooking McLane Stadium is tasty and unique.  

For a brunch or lunch date, try Harvest on 25th. You can do it in a healthy way and won’t realize you were being good until you hit the scale the next morning.  The plates are inventive and prepared perfectly. Great bakery items are also available. The setting is quaint, comfortable, and cozy. It is one of Texas Ten’s very favorite restaurant experiences in town. 

The newest entrant in this category is Blaine’s Restaurant and Wine Shop, with a seasonal menu. Rave reviews.

Upscale Steakhouse  

Two old favorites and two new entries will satisfy any carnivore. Texas Ten has always loved 135 Prime for the special occasion. It is in a strip center, but you forget that fact after walking through the front door. Never had a bad meal there. That does not do the restaurant justice-never had a not great meal is more accurate. Downtown offers Diamondbacks, and it is a worthy entrant. It is a little more boisterous than 135 Prime, but the steak still melts in your mouth, and the wine list impresses.  

The two new entries are the Butcher’s Cellar and the BLVD Steakhouse in the new Cambria Hotel. Both are high-end and best enjoyed on an expense-account budget. If you need to impress the knowledgeable carnivore, you cannot miss with either. The BLVD also has a great breakfast menu. 

American Classic-Burgers, sandwiches, and affordable steaks, chops, etc.  

Waco and McLennan County excel in this category. It is tough to pick a starting place, so we will go with the iconic George’s. Just off I-35 and now with a Woodway location, George’s has fed locals, tourists, and Baylor students for decades. The chicken-fried steak, along with a “Big O” (ice-cold beer of your choosing in a thick, frosted goblet), is the signature, but the menu is a full one. It’s a great place to catch a game as the bar area has expanded. Pat Green sings about it, so its Texas bona fides that are set in stone. Cafe Cappuccino is a reliable cafe popular with the locals but open only for breakfast and lunch.   

A cousin of George’s can be found in McGregor at the Coffee Shop Cafe. Recognized by Texas Monthly as one of Texas’ 40 Best Small Town cafes and by former president George W. Bush as a place to refill after or before a hard day’s work on his Crawford Ranch, you can get an almost perfect down-home meal here. Also not in Waco but not far are Cafe Homestead, a stellar scratch kitchen (Gholson), and the Brown House Cafe (Woodway), a modern diner with excellent traditional dishes.  

Cricket’s Draft House and Grill downtown gives you that big bar feel with many games to keep you occupied before and after your meal. It’s a favorite for celebrating a Bears’ win or for drowning your sorrows after the refs took it away from you.  

Across 2nd Street from Cricket’s and downstairs from the uber-popular Spice Village shopping extravaganza, The Olive Branch falls somewhere between a traditional cafe and an upscale restaurant. Texas Ten particularly recommends the power bowl breakfasts and the brussel sprout appetizers later in the day.  

There are three “best sandwiches in town” spots. Texas Ten loves the modern takes, cheerful service, and easy ambiance of Revival Eastside Eatery, located (not surprisingly) in East Waco. Waco traditionalists flock to Schmaltz’s two locations to enjoy deli cuts on to-die-for scratch breads. Baylor students and their visiting families love The Mix and its full menu of tasty, quasi-healthy sandwiches and salads. McGregor has two great sanwich stops at Fox’s Treats and Eats and Gus’s Deli. Both are lunch only. 

For breakfast and lunch, Joanna fans and others flock to Magnolia Table. Demand is such that they now take reservations. However, they do not take day of reservations.

China Spring is a Waco appendage close to the airport, McLennan Community College, and on the way to the Woolly Mammoth site. Griff’s Grill and Uncle Worm’s (we could have done better on the name?) are both great casual home-cooking spots. 

Need an old-style burger joint? Pick from an endless supply in Waco. The most famous is Health Camp, a time capsule if there ever was one. No telling how many millions of I-35 travelers have made the short turn onto the LaSalle Circle over the years for a well-seasoned burger and fries and, most importantly, one of the best shakes or malts you will ever taste. A similar experience can be found at Cupp’s Drive Inn. Many a Baylor student has forgotten about the last exam over a Cupps’ burger. In town, Kitok and its “oriental fries,” Dubl-R-Burgers, and Whizbangs (formerly Captain Billy Whizbangs) are institutions and deservedly so. Texas Ten also has a fondness for a relative newcomer to the burger scene, Billy Bob’s Burgers Bar & Grill. With three locations, including a downtown spot, Billy Bob’s “adult milkshakes” are a real treat, as is the Green Bear Burger. Kim’s Diner makes you feel like you should arrive in a muscle car with its mid-50s presentation, which is fun. Jake’s Texas Tea House downtown (lunch only) has a great atmosphere and family-style sides.  

Another great small-town feel happens regularly at the Rocket Cafe in Robinson. Probably because this cafe is actually in a small town. We love how they support the local high school heroes. 

Although it is news to some, steaks, Italian food, and other delicacies can be perfectly prepared in settings that are less than white-tablecloth elegant. For affordable takes on the classics, try Heitmiller Family Steakhouse, Jon Lillies, or Lone Star Tavern (particularly red meat). Or join the hordes who favor Baris Italian Eatery (and the best rolls in the world) for old-school Italian. 

Tex-Mex  

Throw a rock. Hit a Tex-Mex place. Have a great meal. These are just some of our favorites: 

New to the fray but with absolute rave initial reviews is Jorge’s, a George’s offshoot. The menu is well thought out, and the bar is primo. Texas Ten loved it all but particularly the rib appetizers, the black bean side, and the churro dessert.  

At breakfast or lunch, particularly breakfast, Lolita’s is awesome. If you have an abuela, this is her kitchen. The migas are among the best in Texas.  

La Fiesta headlines the larger, family-owned Tex-Mex hot spots and has been serving Central Texans for over 60 years. There is a reason for that. Actually, there are many reasons for that, but Texas Ten will stick to the margaritas and the avocado enchiladas.  

Downtown for on-point Tex-Mex, try Heche En Waco. Plus points for the cool bar and the patio dining option. 

The most famous Tex-Mex spot is Mi Casita, which played a highly publicized role in Baylor’s successful battle to keep their basketball coach away from the University of Kentucky. Scott Drew loves it, and that means Waco locals love it.  

For something quicker but authentic, Wako Taco hits the spot. Be careful of the salsas-it can get hot. Close to Baylor, students and families show their Waco knowledge by heading to La Familia. 

Many others have their fans: El Conquistador, Trujillo’s, El Charro, Casa De Castillo, Taqueria El Mexicano,  … and we have not really started yet. If you are after some street food, it is all over the place. Two of the better-known are Las Trancas and Taqueria Zacatecas. 

In McGregor, try La Hacienda #11, El Taquito, and Cancun Mexican Restaurant.and in Woodway/Hewitt, Leal’s is a breakfast and lunch favorite. 

The ‘Q.  

Barbecue is a must-have food group. You have options. 

Helberg is top-of-the-chart good, listed on the most recent Texas Monthly list of the Top 50 barbecue restaurants in the state. Vitek’s is Waco’s most well-known. The signature “gut pack” is a barbecue and Frito pie concoction that serves as one of Waco’s signature dishes and was once voted the nation’s best tailgating food. Because four locations do not make a chain, Texas Ten will let you know that Terry Black’s just opened a Waco restaurant. Terry Black is from one of the Lockhart barbecue royalty families and his Austin spot has also been a Texas Monthly top 50 spot. Great ambiance also.  

Tony DeMaria’s and Jasper’s are related and staples of the East Waco community. Uncle Dan’s is a reliable lunch spot in Waco and Hewitt with a long history and an updated menu.  

In McGregor, Coach’s Bar-B-Que has long been an attraction. Gholson has Red Wagon BBQ, and it is worth the drive.  

Pizza 

Poppa Rollo’s is one of the odder restaurants you will see. It needs a furniture update and is laser-focused on slapstick comedy for decor and entertainment. But if you are a fan of piled-high pizza pie, this is among the best the state offers. The cheese mixture is unique and addictive. Come hungry. 

Southern Roots downtown is a craft beer standout, but their pizza is just as good. Large open-air doors give the place a relaxed feel   

Near Baylor, Shorty’s earns its street cred for affordable, close-to-gourmet pizza. Village Pizza-ria downtown in Union Hall (a large food court) is a great option. Moroso, Baris, and Di Campli’s all have mastered the pie. Slow Rise Slice House has two inviting locations. The Woodway site has huge open spaces for the kids to roam while the parents chat. The river location is inside/outside, with a large deck where you can watch the current pass by over drinks. Milano’s Pizza in McGegor, iis both self-explanatory and delicious. 

Heritage Cuisine.

Texas Ten loves places that capitalize on the family cookbook, regardless of native language. Let’s start with Creole. Cajun Craft is a real deal Cajun in a great setting—a Texas Ten favorite. 

For languages with characters instead of letters, try Bangkok Royal for Thai, Clay Pot for Vietnamese, Teriyaki Park and Wako Roll for sushi, Cathay House (Cantonese) for Chinese, and the Blasian Asian (Cambodian) or a mixture.  

Greeks have always had a love affair with food and three Waco restaurants do a great job of sharing that love. We are not ranking them, and you cannot miss at any of them: Mr. Greek’s Grocery, Alpha Omega, and D’s Mediterranean Grill.   

The true home run-make that the true grand slam– for heritage cuisine is not in Waco. If you are a Texan, you probably already know “Exit 353.” If you are not familiar, memorize it, or better yet, set some sort of AI car alarm to warn you when you get close to the town of West, Texas, on I-35. The town is seemingly built on kolaches, klobasniky, and more traditional sausage. All made the way the residents’ Czech ancestors did. The Little Czech Bakery (northbound access road) and Slovacek’s (southbound access road) draw the lion’s share of folks craving the little miracles. They are both great. 

Breakfast 

Texas Ten loves the vibe and the best “American Classic” morning experience in Waco at Harold Waite’s Pancake and Steak House. It’s old school to the max. The Sunday brunch at J. S. Barnett’s Whiskey House has a rabid following. There is much debate as to whether the crowd shows up or just never leaves after Saturday night. World Cup Cafe generates all the good feelings based on a noble mission and nobler breakfast and lunch.  

Many already mentioned are great day starters, particularly Harvest on 25th, Lolita’s, Magnolia Table, The Olive Branch, and Cafe Cappuccino are all great also.  

The Fermented 

Baptists have long dominated Waco, and the joke goes that you always take two Baptists fishing because if you take just one, he will drink all your beer. Whatever the reason, the bar and music scene in Waco has improved considerably of late.   

Start at J.S. Barnett’s, specializing in Scotch and Whiskey. The bartenders and servers know their stuff, the selection is endless, the setting is cozy, and the patio often has live music. Truelove Bar is almost next door, and it’s a short walk to both The Trojan Cork and Keg and Cricket’s, so you have your bar crawl right there. A block further gets you to Twisted Sisters Patio Bar which features porch swings and live music in addition to all sorts of fun concoctions.  

Now that Waco has a skyline, rooftop drinking is a thing. The coolest new additions are Lucky Buck’s at the Herringbone Hote and Bertie’s Rooftop at Hotel 1928,. Dichotomy on the courthouse square started the rooftop trend. A great view of the courthouse reminds you to Uber home. And, it is called Dichotomy because you can return in the morning for a coffee to work off the aftereffects. Also a popular wifi/workspace during the day, Dichotomy is almost always worth dropping in. 

Hemingways across from Moroso, One Day Bar in downtown, and Sloane’s (named for Ferris’ girlfriend and showing your favorite 80s movies all night) in the Castle Heights neighborhood do great Cheers-style, everybody-knows-your-name things. 

By the campus Freight (named for the train cars that house ping pong tables, dart boards, etc.) gives a great open-air experience. “Rustic Irish” does not begin to describe Scruffy Murphy’s, but we can’t come up with anything better for Baylor’s entry in the college dive bar category. The downfall of Baylor GPAs for the last three decades.   

Lounge 93 is a big draw for the Woodway/Hewitt/Hospital complex area and is a jumping-off spot for several chain restaurants nearby.  

Waco also grows and cans/bottles its own. There is Balcones Distillery we mentioned earlier as a must-visit. For microbrewery stops, the thirsty traveler should try Southern Roots, Waco Ale, Bare Arms, and Brotherwell. Seriously-try all of them. Dancing Bear Pub and Pinewood Public House do not brew their own but have plenty of interesting drafts and bottles on hand.  Out in McGregor, Franklin Beerworks is a microbrewery with great bar food.

For those of you who love the grape you can go the winery or the wine bar route. The wine bars are most convenient if you are staying in Waco, but the wineries are worth the trip. The downtown wine bars include Marie’s Wine Bar, Segovia, The Wine Shoppe, and Song Bird Wine & Charcuterie Bar. Ridgewood Village is a small shopping center near but not on Lake Waco, the tony Ridgewood Country Club, and adjoining neighborhood.   You can find two great spots there, Grape Wine Bar & Bistro, as well as the Blue Dog Wine and Martini Bar. Sort of a relaxed, mature pub crawl. 

For the full winery experience, there is Waco Winery and Vineyards, Valley Mills Vineyards, Country Springs Vineyards and Winery, and Kissing Tree Vineyards.  

Foot Tapping, Turn it Up Spots 

Several of the bars and restaurants mentioned have background music, often live. But where to go for music as the main attraction? The first event calendar to check is the Backyard Bar Stage and Grill, which regularly hosts big-time acts of all musical varieties. It is a great place to catch a concert with open seating, fireplaces, cornhole, etc. The last time Texas Ten visited, it was like Steve Earle was playing in our own backyard. Next, look up what is happening at the Hippodrome, a renovated historic theater. The Lyle Lovett concert there in late February 2020 got Texas Ten through the pandemic from a live music perspective. The Texas Music Cafe offers a more intimate spot where you can experience outstanding artists with great seats-brag about it to your friends when they later become big stars.  

If moving your body is imperative to your listening experience, The Warehouse and Austin’s on the Avenue across from the Hippodrome and Truelove Bar on Franklin have the stuff the kids love; kids being anyone under 40. Melody Ranch will more than satisfy your honky tonk needs.  

Towards Lake Waco, a newcomer to watch is The Will. Already outfitted with a stage, bar, great sound system, and oversized patio, they are completing an amphitheater backed by a small pond that may be a perfect setting for weekend concerts. Finally, the City of Waco helps out quite a bit in the summer hosting its Brazos Nights Concerts on the river and a series of performances at the Plaza in East Waco.  

Waco has great shopping. Unfortunately, it is spread out all over town, so if you are looking for that just perfect souvenir, you may have to work for it. There is a temptation for the Joanna visitors to confine themselves to the Silos area. By all means visit, but if that is all you do, you are doing it wrong.  

Almost next door to the Silos is Hey Sugar, a great old-school candy store with an ice cream bar.  

Most savvy Waco visitors (that would include you now) know about Spice Village. Let’s face it-many markets that rent space to a variety of vendors end up with a high percentage of cheap kitsch of the “it was a good idea at the moment but now it is garage sale variety.” But so not so at Spice Village. Volume, variety, and quality are here. Apparel, gifts, toys, books, and decor. A must-stop if you have any extra cash. 

Speaking of books, Fabled is one of the premier independent bookstores in Texas. It is inviting if you want to read all day, with a great offering and frequent author readings. Their children’s section is a delight. They also have a tremendous social media following.  

There is a small strip of great small stores right next to Hotel 1928. Washington Gallery for stunning visuals; Grocery for the best vintage clothing and mid-modern furniture; and Tecovas for boots.  

Likewise, working your way up and down Franklin and Austin Avenues from 4th Street to 17th Street is worthwhile. On Austin, the highlights include Simply Irresistible for decor (also with an apparel store next to the Silos), Lane’s for thoughtful gifts, Cottontail Jones for children’s clothes, Cactus Rose for rodeo-inspired Western Wear, and Moon Rein for an eclectic combination of inspired design and apparel.  Little known fact–Moon Rein’s owner Christi Proctor Hurst was Waco’s original superstar media designer starring on the very first HGTV hit, Trading Spaces.  

On Franklin, it is mostly about ladies’ apparel. Ramble and Company sits half a block off Franklin near Milo and has great things, particularly Sendero shirts made in Waco. Ramble and Company will also put you right between Milk Bottle Cookies and Splendid Oaks Chocolate and Ice Cream. What goes on in Waco stays in Waco. 

Working your way toward downtown on Franklin lets you encounter Mainstream Boutique, Dylan Nicole, and Twisted Sisters Shoetique. You get the idea.  

We mentioned spread out, and it is. But here are four one-offs that you definitely want to explore. Standard Hat Works is the essence of Texas. A beautifully designed space to get your own customized cowboy hat made by Cameron Morris, one of the best there is at a unique craft. So good that Cameron is sort of a hat maker to the stars with a new Nashville location also. What Cameron is to hats, Jay Kelly is to boots. Visit City Ranch Boot Company for your custom -designed pair.  

Prefontaine is where Waco women go for the perfect outfit. Best boutique in town, although a bit pricey.  

Finally, Waco is somewhat of a picker’s paradise with vintage stores all around town, particularly on LaSalle. But the queen of it all is Pat Laverty, renowned for her great artistic eye. If you need authentic oddballs as opposed to made-in-China oddballs, Laverty’s is your place. However, Laverty’s is only open when Pat feels like she has enough quality offerings, so check her Facebook feed. If you are lucky enough to be here on a Laverty’s weekend, make sure to stop by.  McGregor offers excellent picking options. long State Hwy 84 near the intersection with County Road 317, there are at least five quality vintage shops–Hidden Talent Gifts & Antiques, Cedar Chest Mill, Junque Amore, Chaborr’s Collectibles, and Junk for Joy. In town, McGregor has some interesting specialty shops. Gigi’s Tiny Treasures is a shop for grandparents (and parents) of small children, and it also features a great Old-Fashioned Meat Market. 

We already mentioned Homestead Village, so we will just say it again—it has the best craftsmanship in town, in the county, maybe anywhere. It is definitely worth the short drive to Gholson.

Girls’ trips and bachelorette parties have exploded the Waco short-term rental scene, so VRBO and AirBnB are great options. What is a short term rental and what is a true bed and breakfast is sort of hazy these days. As far as we know, however, you get some local color in addition to the real estate with these. 

From a hotel perspective, there are three that give you one-of-a-kind experiences, although their prices reflect their quality.   

Hotel 1928 for the full Joanna and Chip treatment. 

Hotel Herringbone for the Austin in Waco vibe. 

Pivovar for elegance and immediate proximity to the Silos 

Gloria Inn and Cottages for a veryhp, retro feel.

Combining the VRBO experience with the Joanna and Chip experience can be done through a Magnolia house rental. 

In or near McGregor there are–

The Carriage House (A Chip and Joanna Fixer Upper from HGTV)

Darling Cottage

The McGregor House 

There are plenty of new and great chain hotels in Waco, but Texas Ten will let their million-dollar advertising budgets fend for themselves. 

A wildly popular option is the new FIMFO campgrounds, which offer a range of stay alternatives, including cabins, tent sites, and RV hookups. On the river and with a pool, a small concert space, and other diversions, FIMFO is great for groups and families.  

Similarly, Waco Surf has great cabins and RV hookups. 

The Extraco Event Center hosts equine and other events all the time and has on-site RV hookups. There is no reservation system -it is first come, first serve. ((254) 776-1660 for information).  

For tailgating weekends at Baylor Football, Brazos Parking is the go-to.  

Bare Arms Brewery is part of the Harvest Host program, which offers RV hookups near unique attractions. This means a real stumble-to-your-bed sort of stay. 

Other RV options in or extremely close to Waco are: 

Lake Waco Marina RV Park 

Brazos River RV Park 

Flat Creek Farms RV Resort 

Blue Sky I-35 RV Park  

Deer Crossing RV Park 

North Crest RV Park 

Quail Crossing RV Park 

Riverview Campground 

E Double H RV Park 

Waco RV Park 

Camp Caravan RV Park  

Nicole Creek RV and Cabins 

For an out-of-the-city feel, there is: 

Patriot RV Park Riesel 

McGregor RV Park 

Atria Hotel RV Hookups (McGregor) 

Blue Hills Ranch and Resort (McGregor) 

Tonkawa Falls RV Park (Crawford) 

Waco and McLennan County are great visits year-round, but as with most of Central Texas, spring and fall weekends offer the best weather. 

Highlight events include; 

The Heart of Texas Fair and Rodeo  

Westfest 

Silobration 

Spring at the Silos 

The Texas Food Truck Showdown 

Brazos Night Summer Weekends 

Waco Independent Film Festival  

Waco Family & Faith Festival 

Waco Cultural Arts Festival 

Fly-In (McGregor Airport)

Baylor Football and basketball weekends – check the schedules for Football, MBB, and WBB. 

Christmas on Fifth 

If you can get yourself on at Ridgewood Country Club through another club membership or a local connection, you should. It’s a great track with views of the lake. It’s not overly long but a little bit tight, rewarding good shot-making. The margaritas afterward are special.   

There are three good options for local public or semi-private tracks. Cottonwood Creek is an upscale municipal course. Well maintained and run, it offers ample practice facilities, including a large putting green, a real driving range with decent balls and turf, and a cool pitch and putt course.   

Bear Ridge is a semi-private course that has had its ups and downs, but it is currently on an upswing. The spring rains have it in great shape, and it is once again being professionally managed. It is pretty wide open, so you should be able to get around on a sleeve of balls.  

Lake Waco Golf Club is another semi-private course, this one featuring a standard 18 and a par 3 nine. The club is in a beautiful setting but tends towards economy golf. Fun outings are there for the taking, but do not expect Augusta-style greens. 

The many references to Central Texas or the Heart of Texas are fairly accurate. However, Waco is approximately two and a half hours East of the exact geographic center of the state in Brady.  

Driving to Waco is easy as to directions and occasionally trying as to patience, depending on I-35 traffic. North/South is I-35 between Dallas and Austin. East/West is State Highway 6, although if you are angling in from highway from the major east/west interstates (there are other state highway options (SH 77 from I-10 east of San Antonio, SH 31 from I-20 and I-30 east of Dallas, and SH 84 form I-20 west of Fort Worth). 

Waco has a regional airport serviced by American Airlines, always connecting to Dallas-Fort Worth Airport. Minimizing the chance of missed connections or expanding your airline options means flying directly to DFW, Dallas Love Field, or Austin Bergstrom and driving/ride-sharing to Waco. DFW is an hour and 45 minutes away, Dallas Love is an hour and forty minutes away, and Austin Bergstrom is also an hour and forty-minute drive.   

Smaller planes can check out the TSTC Airport or the McGregor Executive Airport, both within minutes of Waco. 

There is solid evidence of Native American people in the McLennan County area as early as 11,000 BC. The current belief is that the Tonkawa Indians, who were native to the area, likely descended from these early inhabitants. Wichita, Delaware, and Caddo peoples eventually joined the Tonkawa in the area. By the early 1800s, “Waco Village” was a sizable Native American encampment.   

The occasional Anglo or European explorer passed through with the Mexican government extending the first official land grants in 1825.  Those land grants did not mean much to the Native Americans, and a healthy fear of conflict kept things quiet until the 1840s. The United States’ annexation of Texas meant access to federal troops and easier immigration from settlers hungry for land. Thus, by the late 1840s, the Anglo development of the western frontier had reached the area. Surveyor George Erath of Erath County fame and others devised a plan to establish a village and began to sell city lots. Erath suggested “Waco” as the name to honor the Waco Indians they were replacing.  

One of the other town fathers was Shapley Ross, who ran the ferry over the Brazos and several other commercial establishments. Lawrence “Sul” Ross was one of Shapley’s sons and he had an outsized impact on Texas history.  

The Native Americans were soon removed to Oklahoma, and the frontier line moved significantly to the north and west. Thus, Waco and McLennan County began to prosper fairly rapidly. Two things drove the growth. First, Waco was on the Chisholm Trail, and the Brazos River was one of the more difficult cattle crossings. The local Masons formed a committee that grew into a company that financed, built, and managed the longest suspension bridge west of the Mississippi. The bridge was wide enough to allow opposing stagecoaches to safely pass each other or for humans to move one way and cattle the other. It was also the only bridge over the Brazos. The traffic going through Waco made the city an important commercial point, and the bridge became Texas’ first wildly successful toll road.   

Second, the soil and the hydration provided by the Brazos and Bosque rivers made the area ideal for growing cotton. The cash crop quickly became the area’s dominant enterprise. The Eraths, the Rosses, and the Neal McLennan family, for whom the county is named, all arrived with small numbers of enslaved people. By the beginning of the Civil War, enslaved people comprised almost 40% of the roughly 6,200 people living in the county. That number was an unusually high percentage for Texas as much of the state devoted itself to ranching or subsistence farming as opposed to cotton as a cash crop.  

Cotton continued as king for decades. In addition to growing cotton, McLennan County became a focal point for processing, trading, and shipping cotton. So much so that the city constructed a major exposition center named The Cotton Palace, which was to be home to an annual celebration of the crop. The first exposition occurred in November 1894 and was very successful. The Cotton Palace burned to the ground the next January. The citizenry eventually rallied and opened a bigger palace in 1910 which existed until the Great Depression (metaphorically) burned the second palace to the ground. The cornerstone from the second Cotton Palace building is now found at Lover’s Leap in Cameron Park.  

The other significant event in Waco’s 19th-century history occurred in 1887 when Baylor University in Independence, Texas, moved to town and merged with Waco University. Baylor’s charter dates to 1845 and is the basis for the school’s claim to be the “oldest continuously operating university in Texas.” Baylor has grown to over 20,000 students and is now the largest employer in the county, in addition to being a huge driver for visitors.  

The world wars brought a large military presence to Waco and the surrounding area. Camp MacArthur was a large training post during World War I, and the city was filled to the brim with soldiers and their families. At the dogged request of generals wanting to keep the attention of their troops, the city finally shut down “The Reservation.” The Reservation had been a redlight district filled with saloons, gambling houses, and brothels where prostitution was legal. An odd side note for this thoroughly Baptist town.   

Waco suffered unusually from the depression, but military activity in World War II eased that. An Army airfield and a variety of defense production plants nearby revved the economy. After the war, the airfield closed, but soon after its inception as a separate branch, the Air Force opened James Connally Air Force Base, which was a major employer and economic hub until it closed in 1966. Although little defense contracting exists today in McLennan County, it continued for a long time after World War II. 

The early to mid-20th century in Waco and McLennan County was marked by three dark strands. The Great Depression, of course, was an equal opportunity scourge that did not skip the area. Race relations were also a nationwide blemish, but they were particularly fierce in Waco. The presence of cotton processing operations brought many African Americans as workers rather than sharecroppers; East Waco had a thriving black middle class.   

That this development was a particular sore spot for a community with a culture more rooted in plantations than ranches is not much more than an educated guess. It does seem like a valid explanation for the fact that the KKK found a home in Waco for a period of time, and there was a series of grisly lynchings that gained national notoriety.  

Many African Americans in McLennan County quietly hold the belief, by now passed down from their ancestors, that the events of May 11, 1953, was God’s reaction to a century of injustice. On that day, a massive tornado took dead aim at Waco’s center. In its wake, the twister left 114 dead, hundreds injured, and a forever altered urban landscape. There are few natural disasters that have done more harm to the downtown of an American city than this twister.  

Much of the retail business moved to the suburbs, and for a long period, the city center in Waco suffered. Eventually, significant investment from the federal government reversed the decline. Just as Waco was appearing from that shadow, the nation watched as the federal government attacked the stronghold of religious cult leader David Koresh in a rural area of the county. The dispute about how the federal government handled the Koresh affair goes on, but it was a black eye for Waco,  

The city’s and region’s history has been considerably brighter in the 21st century. Fame rather than infamy came in the form of Joanna and Chip Gaines, who based their Fixer Upper television show on their redevelopment efforts in the area. Baylor has continued to grow, and the economy has diversified. Downtown is regaining its vibrance. 

Recently Mclennan County ranked as the 21st largest county (out of 254) by population in Texas, with just over 268,000 residents. Despite the recent progress, the census statistics for the county reveal a population that is less educated and less prosperous than the Texas average. The racial/ethnic breakdown is approximately 56% Anglo, 27% Hispanic, 13% black, 2% Asian and the remainder other or mixed race. The county is solidly Republican but not as much as its more rural neighbors, with 61% voting for Trump and 38% voting for Biden in the last general presidential election.   

Waco has its share of famous people who were born there or passed through. From the world of entertainment, there is Steve Martin (born but quickly left), Jessica and Ashlee Simpson, Anne Gwynne (one of the original Hollywood “scream queens and actor Chris Pine’s grandmother), Jules Bledsoe (one of America’s first popular African-American performers, he popularized the song “Old Man River”), Jennifer Love Hewitt, Peri Gilpin, Tommy Abbott, Billy Joe Shaver, Pat Green, Wade Bowen, Shannon Elizabeth, Jeff Dunham, Crystal Bernard, Allison Tolman, Angela Kinsey, Joanna and Chip Gaines, Derek Haas, John Lee Hancock, Kevin Reynolds, James Brown (Film and TV star of the 1940s and 50’s not the singer), Trey Wingo, David Crowder, Brett James, and Willie Nelson.  

Willie is, of course, from everywhere in Texas, but he grew up in Abbott in neighboring Hill County. Willie attended Baylor for a minute (actually on and off for two years) before dropping out to pursue his music. When Baylor was still completely uptight, it canceled a Willie Nelson benefit show scheduled on campus due to Willie’s reputation as a rule breaker. Probably not the wisest way to treat your most famous former student. No surprise that Willie is a devoted Texas Longhorn fan.  

In the sports world, there have been many, mostly Baylor athletes but also homegrown talent that plied their trade elsewhere from Baylor: Grant Teaff, Art Briles, Robert Griffin, III, Mike Singletary, Don Trull, Lawrene Elkins, Corey Coleman, Thomas Everett, Gary Green, Santanna Dodson, Bill Glass, Spencer Drango, Cyril Richardson, Terrance Williams, Daniel Sepulveda, James Lynch, Xavien Howard, Jalen Pitre, Terrel Bernard, Scott Drew, Vinnie Johnson (also a successful businessman), Davion Mitchell, Jared Butler, Taurean Prince, Jack Robinson, Royce O’Neale, Epke Udoh, Quincy Acy, Keyonte George, Clyde Hart, Michael Johnson, Jeremy Wariner, Trayvon Bromell, Darold Williamson, Reggie Witherspoon, Wil London, Todd Harbour, Kim Mulkey, Brittney Griner, Odyssey Sims, Sophia Young, Kalani Brown, NaLyssa Smith, Max Muncy, Ted Lyons, and Jimmy Walker.  

From Waco but not Baylor, there is LaDainian Tomlinson, Derrick Johnson, and Lance Berkman. 

 In letters and journalism, Waco and/or Baylor have been home to Thomas Harris, Robert Fulghum, “Heloise”  (Ponce Evans), and Dave Campbell.  

In the professions and business, you can look up to T. Berry Brazelton, Mark Hurd, Shawn Achor, Bob Simpson, Drayton McLane, Paul Foster, Leon Jaworski, John Eddie Williams, Walter Umphrey, Harold Nix, Jerry Clements, Abner McCall, and Herbert Reynolds.  

In public service there is Doris Miller, Jack Hummus, Sul Ross, Price Daniel, Price Daniel, Jr., Bill Daniel, Pat Neff, Ann Richards, Mark White, William Sessions, Pete Sessions, Bob Poage, Jack Hightower, Bob Bullock, Jim Mattox, Trey Gowdy, Rand Paul, Colin Allred, Sam Hall, Eddie Bernice Johnson, Chet Edwards, and Priscilla Richman.