Field Guides
Brownwood, Texas
(Brown COUNTY)
Pecan orchards and fishing paradise centered around Lake Brownwood.
Highlights
Brown County sits close to the center of Texas. In many ways, the county seat of Brownwood centers Texas with its mix of small town rural values, history of booms and busts, close connection to nature and commitment to higher education. As much as a town of 20,000 citizens can, Brownwood offers a little something for everyone.
Lake Brownwood is the biggest attraction. The 7,300 acre lake attracts people from all over central Texas for its scenery, fishing, and water sports. Howard Payne University is a small institution with an enrollment under 1,000, but its educational opportunity and cultural offerings elevate the area. Friday Night Lights has a storied history in Brownwood, as Gordon Wood roamed this sideline for 26 years and led the Lions to seven state championships. Many consider him the greatest Texas high school football coach ever, which is a mouthful. Brownwood was also a military town with Camp Bowie being one of the largest training posts of World War II, and a railroad town.
These population spurts resulted in a downtown that is large for the current population of the city. It is not an easy downtown to navigate. In truth, the city’s layout brings to mind one of Russell Bradford’s favorite sayings (Russell being the father of one member of the Texas Ten couple and the father-in-law of the other); specifically that the city looks to have been laid out by a drunken cowboy. But if you dismount your horse and walk around a bit, there are plenty of treasures to find.
So there you have it-football, fishing, railroads, military history, education, and commerce all at the crossroads of the state.
The County Courthouse
The Brown County Courthouse is the 1917 remodeling of an 1884 structure; from the photographs the transformation into the current classical revival style was remarkable. The old Brown County jail is nearby and a formidable structure also. The jail now houses the Brown County Museum.
Texas Ten loved the presentation of both courthouses. Unfortunately, there is no true square around the buildings to amplify the rural, old town feel that does exist downtown.
Things To See And Do
The headliner is Lake Brownwood. Formed in the 1930’s as a flood control project to control Pecan Creek Bayou, a local water district controls the lake, that means that unlike Corps of Engineer lakes, houses can be built near the shore. Given the lake’s relatively large size, depth, and central location, it has become a popular second home area for central Texans.
The fishing for Texas standards-largemouth bass, white bass, and channel catfish-is good to excellent. The lake is fairly protected so water skiing conditions are often favorable. Lake Brownwood State Park offers camping, hiking, and day use options. The Civilian Conservation Corps buildings at the park are great examples of that particular brand of depression-era architecture. The Wild Duck Marina is a private business that becomes a hotspot on weekends and holidays.
If you like your water chlorinated, the Camp Bowie Family Aquatic Center is an impressive facility with kid-friendly water slides. Open summer only.
The Lehnis Railroad Museum and Visitor Center offers a better than usual explanation of the impact railroads had on our state. The museum sits next to a well-preserved Santa Fe Depot. The Brown County Museum of History offers a glimpse into the past, with a good explanation of Camp Bowie as well as frequent events aimed at children.
On campus at Howard Payne, you will find the Douglas MacArthur Academy of Freedom celebrating the famous general as well as tracing the roots and history of democracy. At the Chamber of Commerce, you can delve into Gordon Wood’s storied career as a Texas High School football legend. There might not be a better way to get a feel for the area.
The Lyric is a gem of a restored theater that hosts a robust calendar of concerts and shows. While wondering around downtown, see how many murals you can find.
We explore the entertainment and shopping scene in sections devoted to those subjects.
Food, Drinks and Music (Eat Local!)
As you might expect for a city at the heart of Texas, the culinary scene pays close attention to the traditional favorites: barbecue, comfort food, and Tex-Mex. Before we get to the main food groups, let’s pay attention to the foodies. For “elevated dining” there are two great spots-The Turtle and Lucille & Mabel’s Kitchen + Libations. Also, some of Texas’ best baked goods are available at the Baked Artisan Goods bakery.
For barbecue, we have to start with Underwood’s which has been serving Brownwood residents and hungry travelers for close to a century. Home of the barbecue beef steak. Underwood’s success has inspired many others. You can find great BBQ at Up in Smoke, The Sticks, Smitty’s (not associated with Smitty’s Lockhart), Circle V, and Lemon’s.
On the comfort food front, choose from Humphrey Pete’s, Sissy’s Red Wagon, Grazed and Confused, The Runaway Train Cafe, Jerry’s Burgers & Shakes, Snacky or the Section Hand Steakhouse. At or near the lake, try Wild Duck Marina, Lakeside Bar & Grill, Rusty Anchor Cafe (at the far north end of the lake) or The Hideout Grill (more on the The Hideout in the golf section). Common Grounds Coffeehouse specializes in great coffee but also has breakfast and lunch items.
Mexican food is a crowded category. All of these are informal spots where the food is the main thing. Locals love Tr3s Leches Bakery (not a typo) best but it can get crowded. Providencia is the second location of a successful Midland restaurant and likely provides the best atmosphere, but has limited hours during the week. Hacienda Leon Mexican Kitchen & Bar, Ricardo’s Tortilla Bakery, La Sabrosita Taqueria, Tacos El Compa, La Botana Mexican Grill & Tequila Bar, Emilio’s Mexican, Taco Rico,and Herencia Maya Mexican Buffet all have their fans. If you are by the lake, Corina’s Restaurant will satisfy your taco cravings.
If you are absurdly risk averse and want to stick to chains, you can go with a Fuzzy’s Taco.
No dining scene can be complete without casual Italian and/or local pizza. Brownwood has three that fit that bill. The Pizza Co, Potter’s Pizza (a small central Texas chain), Prima Pasta.
Last but not least, let’s hear from our friends in Asia. Jolene from Thailand. Katana Sushi & Hibachi from Japan, and Lemongrass Asian from wherever there is lemongrass.
Finally, Brownwood absolutely excels at the relaxed drinking game. There are the lakeside places we have already mentioned and more. Pioneer Tap House for craft beer and pub foods; Skies Over Texas Winery and 10 Mile Productions for wine tastings; and Waylon & Ray’s, Los Trece, and Boots and Spurs for live music (also available at the taproom). A good time will be had.
Where To Drop A Dime (Shop Local!)
Eclectic is the watchword for shopping in Brownwood, so we will describe it in a scattershot approach. The Intermission Bookshop in the restored Queen Theater is a huge favorite. Shaw’s Marketplace is a lovingly restored, multi-vendor marketplace offering a combined boutique/vintage/coffee house experience. There are lots of these across Texas, but Shaw’s is one of the best. CDC Games is a great place to buy and play a wide variety of board and multiplayer games.
For fans of boutiques (largely women’s wear, but some children) there are enough to take up some time and money. Get your one-of-a-kind items at any of Earth & Noble, Glamour Shop, Grits & Grace, Hamilton’s, The Hen House, Sassy Stitches, and Tommy Hawk. Double H Mercantile is a general purpose store with boutique items.
Thrift/Vintage/Consignment is also a big thing in the area. Happy hunting for that lost treasure at Butterbeans Antiques & Uniques, Hey June, Junk and Disorderly, Ricochet Oldies & Antiques, and True Treasures.
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
Star Bed and Breakfast is number one for romantic getaways. The Hideout Golf Club and Resort boasts a great hotel, often overrun by golfers, that accommodates in rooms, cabins or houses. Lake Brownwood State Park occupies prime real estate on the lake and offers campsites, screened shelters, and lodges.
Beyond those options, there are many VRBO opportunities. Check it out here.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
Special Events
If you want to visit Brownwood at its best, there are at least four opportunities. In February the Stars of Texas draws Texas artists from near and far. The big show is the Brown County Rodeo each June. Corks and Caps celebrates culinary achievement, craft beer, and fine wines every October. Christmas Under the Stars in December is memorable.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
Three great alternatives here. The Hideout Golf Club and Resort is a high quality resort track. Brownwood Country Club is almost a century old and a great place to play if you can arrange it. Finally, The Creek in nearby Blanket is a nice public course with reasonable rates.
Getting to Brown County
Brown County is very close to the exact geographic center of Texas. Brownwood is at the center of several state highways (183, 377, and 84), none of which are exactly north/south or east/west around Brownwood. The nearest interstate is I-20, where the SH 183 exit at Cisco is about 50 miles due north of Brownwood. Windshield time from major Texas cities can be found here.
If you are flying, the closest major carrier option is American Airlines to Abilene, 60 miles to the northwest. None of these flights are direct, however. For other major carriers you can fly to Austin Bergstrom (most majors), DFW International (most majors other than Southwest), or Love Field (Alaska, Delta, and Southwest only) in Dallas. Which are between two and a half hours and two hours and fifty minutes away by car. Smaller craft will likely utilize Brownwood Regional Airport.
History
Pentaka Comanches (a band known as Wasp or Honey Eaters) lived in the area now known as Brown County in the 1800s in search of buffalo and other wild game. 1824 the Mexican Colonization Laws were passed, encouraging widespread foreign immigration. Setting off a violent reaction to incoming Anglos, the Comanche people sought revenge by stealing horses—the most important commodity for these plains hunters.
The county is named after Captain Henry Stevenson Brown, a settler and Indian fighter who entered the area in 1828 with other Anglos to recover stolen livestock taken by the Comanches. Brown is known for commanding eighty men at the Battle of Velasco and serving as a delegate at the Convention of 1832.
1856, the county was officially formed, and Brownwood was designated the county seat. From here, the county grew with ten times the number of cattle to men. By the dawn of the Civil War in 1860, Brown County had 244 residents, none of whom enslaved people. With frequent robberies and attacks by Natives and White Desperados, settlement in this area was slow, and with other more pressing concerns to settlers in Brown County, involvement in the Civil War was non-existent. Crime ran rampant in this region, making it the epitome of the “Wild West,” with dangerous gangs led by John Wesley Hardin, the most perilous gunfighter in these parts. It was not until 1874, when Hardin was chased out of the county due to lynching allegations that more farmers began to move in.
Politics, like life in these parts, was volatile. In 1878, the Republican Party was replaced by the Greenback Party, which became active in the area, though most residents were still Democrats. In 1903, during Prohibition, Brown voted itself a dry county and remained so until the 1950s.
Though slow, growth came to Brown County alongside the Fort Worth and Rio Grande Railways in 1892. Railway expansion was the impetus for farmers in this area to experiment with crop diversification, though cattle ranching still dominated the economy. Fights broke out frequently in the early 1900s between farmers and ranchers; however, over fences and barbed wire were placed on property previously designated as open ranges. Despite the conflicts, cotton became the primary cash crop grown in Brown County, mainly due to the expansion of the Cotton Culture and new machinery producing more significant amounts.
An aggressive Boll Weevil epidemic swept through the Plains in 1909, wiping out a significant amount of cotton. However, earlier crop diversification helped offset these losses, as corn, fruit, and nut trees continued contributing to the local economy. The Great Depression hit the region hard. It wasn’t until one of the New Deal programs came to Brown County that relief was finally felt. One of these new projects was building a dam that brought jobs and irrigation solutions.
World War II brought tough times again as laborers moved north for war-related jobs. However, constructing a training center, Camp Bowie, for servicemen in the infantry and cavalry infused new life into the county. Between 1943 and 1946, the facility was also used as a POW camp housing more than 1,300 German prisoners.
Today, the oil industry has taken the top spot economically in Brown County, and though fluctuations have frequently affected the population, agribusiness has also contributed to the local economy. According to the 2020 census, the median income is $53,792 for the 38,095 residents. Of this number, 76.98% are white, 21.55% are Hispanic or Latino, and 19.9% hold a bachelor’s degree or higher.
Notables among the many who have called Brown County home include actors Clint Walker (Cheyenne 1955-1963) and Bob Denver (Gilligan’s Island 1964-1967), as well as athletes Joshua Eargle (FIU Head coach), MLB Pitcher Jerry Don Gleaton, and MLB Player and Coach Walt Williams.
Primary Sources:
Texas State Historical Society