Field Guides
Alpine, Texas
(Brewster COUNTY)
Big Bend's breathtaking desert mountains and star-filled night skies.
Highlights
Most small cities in Texas can be located by saying they are between two larger cities. Madisonville, Texas, is on I-45 between Houston and Dallas. That makes them seem less rural. Alpine is not “between” anything unless you count Marathon and Marfa as cities of note. Martha is famous all out of proportion to its size but famous for its remoteness. You do not hear about Alpine nearly as much as Marfa. All a long way of saying that Texas Ten did not expect much when we visited Alpine.
We could not have been more wrong. Alpine is a charming and vibrant arts-driven city that is as tough as the cattlemen who settled it. The city is at an altitude of over 4,000 feet in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert so its climate is dry and surprisingly moderate. Alpine also happens to be the county seat of one of the most ruggedly beautiful spots in the country.
Big Bend National Park lies entirely within Brewster County. The National Park System bills the park as “splendid isolation,” a bullseye description. The entry to the park is in Terlingua, a legendary mining town that, along with nearby Lajitas, are an outpost for a breed of individualists who live life on their own terms, which usually involves honoring the beauty, culture, and history of this enchanting region. You will see some odd things in Terlingua but in a refreshing sort of way. Terlingua is also the jumping-off point for Big Bend Ranch State Park, which Brewster County shares with Presidio County.
One can gain a sense of Brewster County in a long weekend and get to know Brewster County in a week, but to deeply understand Brewster County it might take a lifetime. Part of the reason for that is the sheer size of the place. Brewster County is the largest county by land area in the state. It is three times the size of Delaware and 500 square miles larger than Connecticut. There are endless interesting geological formations, and landscape photographers have built careers out of the vistas and scenery. The hiking, hunting, and river running opportunities are endless.
Yet set into all the natural beauty and isolation, you can return to Alpine with its arts, culture, and Sul Ross University, one of the more interesting schools in the country. In Alpine and Terlingua to some extent, but particularly in Lajitas and nearby Marathon, there are luxury accommodations and great restaurants. In the end, Texas Ten concluded that you cannot claim the full Texas experience until you have explored Brewster County.
The County Courthouse
The Brewster County Courthouse is a historical rarity. The current structure is the only building ever to serve that function. No fires, no hurricanes, no contested county seats-just 138 years of stability. Hats off to Brewster County!
We can see why the citizens wanted to keep it. We love the red brick exterior, which acts like an accent wall to the adobe and paler shade buildings in the rest of Alpine. The bricks were custom-made for the project, kilned near Ranger Canyon.
The building’s overall dimensions are appropriate for Brewster County’s size. Not overwhelming, but substantial enough to remind us of the vital work that goes on there. The architecture is distinctive. Like many courthouses of the period, it is generally a Second Empire-style building with a hipped Mansard roof and facade elevations featuring bays and arched windows, all in the manner Napoleon approved during his second reign. Tom Lovell, the presumed designer, however, inserted his own twist by omitting the usual corner towers. The scaled-down version is slightly less grand, but we like the symmetry and order. It fits the ethos of humble yet strong West Texas. Hats off to Tom Lovell!
Our only quibble is that the yard is overtreed, making it tight to get a good picture. We will have to head back in the winter when it is a bit sparser. Any reason for a trip to Alpine is a good one, so we won’t complain too much. This one is a hidden gem.
Things To See And Do
We arrived in Alpine and went straight to the Holland Hotel, which is indeed the historic heart of Alpine. The hotel was built in 1928 and designed by the acclaimed architect Henry Trost, who seems to be responsible for every major building in the Trans Pecos region. JR Holland was a local rancher and the hotel reflects a rancher’s tastes. The Old West oozes from the walls here. Currently undergoing a renovation, we trust that those in charge will keep the chrome while readying the structure for its second century. Definitely worth a peek even if you are not staying there.
We spent a good amount of time wandering downtown and really the whole city. For a town of around 6,000, there is a freakish number of great art galleries, cool bookstores, restored theaters, inviting eateries, and tremendous public art. To “do the town” correctly, you need several days. Specific descriptions of the must-see places and must-eat restaurants are in the Eat Local or Shop Local pages but make sure you roam the Murphy Street Historic District.
While there, you need to “attend” Sul Ross University, established in 1917 and the educational and cultural driver of the Big Bend Region. More than anything else, the school is the reason Alpine became the area’s hub. The campus houses the Museum of the Big Bend, an informative and entertaining history of the entire region that is great for all age visitors. If you are planning to visit Big Bend National Park or Big Bend Ranch State Park, the museum is a great place to understand what you are going to see.
Texas Ten next stumbled on one of the coolest things we have experienced in all our travels. Not far from the Museum is the trailhead to Hancock Hill. A short but strenuous hike up the hill leads you to “The Desk.” Actually it is the latest iteration of “The Desk” that in 1979 Sul Ross freshman Jim Kitchen, Bill Wagner, and Travis Miller lugged to the top of the hill and placed in a picturesque spot overlooking the valley below.
Why? Having made the hike without a huge metal desk, Texas Ten can attest that Kitchen, Wagner, and Miller had to really work at the task. So the immediate answer to “why?” has to be that they were crazy college students with more free time than sense. It turns out that the desk was destiny. The trio returned to the desk often to study in nature or maybe to conduct the typical college bull sessions about the meaning of life and whether she might go out with me in an astounding setting. Eventually, a notebook came to document these thoughts.
Over the next four and a half decades, Sul Ross students and now the general public supplemented the tradition, leaving notes in the desk. Those who were present the day we visited were personal, whether joyful, sorrowful, or matter-of-fact. All in all a remarkable commentary on the human condition and in particular, the outlook of the hardy breed who inhabit the region. The university has had the good sense to compile the writings in a publicly available archive. Archaeologists centuries from now will understand us better for the efforts of the crazy Sul Ross students.
Also in Alpine is Kokernot Field which Sports Illustrated deemed the “The Best Little Ballpark in Texas (or Anywhere Else).” A complete charmer, this gem is home to the Sul Ross Lobos baseball team, the Alpine Cowboys of the Pecos League, and-we love this-the high school Alpine Bucks. Sadly we were between seasons, although the Cowboys were there preparing for their schedule. Returning for a game is high on the Texas Ten’s to-do list.
Of course, the biggest attraction in Brewster County is to the south of Alpine. A large bend in the Rio Grande River defines the region and the look of the western reach of our great state. Nestled in that bend are the two great parks, one national and one state. The Chisos Mountain Range is also within the national park, providing the stunning water v. cliff backdrops that photographers crave.
There are all sorts of ways to experience this stunning bit of terrain. You can hike it, float it, bike it, horse ride it, drive it, or even fly over it. It would take years to even dent the number of outdoor opportunities. So our advice is to pick one type of activity and focus on it for your trip; you get to come back and experience something different and just as grand. More than almost any place in Texas, rely on local knowledge and guides. They know the where, when, and most importantly, the how of getting you where you want to go and keeping you safe. It is a wild country overall.
The commercial center of the immediate area is Terlingua, although the locals will be surprised to see themselves described as a “commercial center.” There is great lodging, an iconic restaurant, home base for guides, and a ton of quirk. Most of that is explained in other sections, but it is worth noting that the quirk hits its apex during the The Original Terlingua Chili Cook Off.
If these were not reasons enough to visit Brewster County, hunting is a big deal here. The variety of wildlife is impressive, and it goes to show that maybe the number one thing other species need is space from humans. Whatever the reason, you can find mule deer, white-tailed deer, elk, pronghorn antelope, black bear, mountain lion, aoudad sheep, javelina, coyotes, bobcats, quail, and turkey in the region. Oh, lots of rattlesnakes also. In any event, large ranches occupy most of the private land, so lease from them or schedule a private hunt. Popular options are the AS Gage Ranch and Y-Barr-A Outfitters.
Based on its rich geological history, the area is ripe for rock and fossil hunting. Like the other type of hunting, the land is all private or government-owned, so some local knowledge is essential.
Up the road, Terlingua Lajitas is a town whose leadership was once supposedly a beer-drinking goat. Somehow the goat got a golf resort built and acquired a famous sculpture unveiled by Franklin Roosevelt. After a few days, weeks, or months of exploring the Big Bend, you can treat yourself in Marathon (pronounced “mare uh th’un”). Famous for the posh Gage Hotel, there are shops and restaurants to explore also.
Brewster County has something for everyone and is a must-see.
Food, Drinks, and Music (Eat Local!)
Divided by area among Alpine, Terlingua-Lajitas, and Marathon, here are your options.
Alpine
Exploring Alpine and the area can work up a ferocious appetite. You can get that steak or other great meal to fill you back up at The Reata, Spicewood Restaurant, and The Century Bar and Grill. The Reata is the gold standard here, with many visitors making it a point to eat here. Reservations are advisable. The Century Bar and Grill is in the Holland Hotel and has a similar reputation, but is currently closed for renovations. Spicewood has the advantage of amazing scenery at the Quarter Circle Seven Ranch to pair with great food.
Expertly prepared fresh food or small plates are at Roux and Alcove Social at the Old Saddle Club. Roux has outdoor seating but can do larger orders for takeout. Great for groups headed to the trail or the campfire after the trail. Alcove Social serves craft cocktails, premium beers and well-prepped small plate bar food in an awesome setting.
For more casual, quicker bites, try your hand at Bock Burger, Amigo Sports Bar, Smokehouse BBQ, or the food trucks Tri La Bite and Cow Dog. Bock Burger and Smokehouse Barbecue are self-explanatory and mouthwatering, Amigo is the casual restaurant and bar of the Alpine City Place hotel, Tri La Bite offers a good variety of lunches, and Cow Dog is famous for hot dogs. The Bread Garden and Bakery is where you get a great start on the day with an awesome breakfast, as well as the best sandwich and dinner bread for hundreds of miles. The Picnic Basket has great sandwiches for outdoor eating. Scoop’s Creamery offers fresh, healthy salads, among other things, backed by great ice cream for a “balanced diet.”
This close to Mexico means great Mexican food options of several variants. In no particular order, Sazzon Baja Mex. Magoo’s Place, The Ritchey, La Casita, and Alicia’s Mexican aka the Burrito Place. Sazzon specializes in Baja-inspired creations, while the others are different combinations of Tex and Mex. The Ritchey refers to the house kitchen and bar at the small and quaint former Ritchey Hotel
If you want to combine West Texas and Far East philosophies, try Fish Cat Cafe, a Japanese- inspired food truck or Lane Thai Cafe.
For nightlife, in addition to the already mentioned Alcove Social, the hotel bars at the Holland (when it reopens), the Ritchey, and Amigo Bar, there is Railroad Blues, a dive bar with live music
Marfa is just 25 miles to the west of Alpine, and Fort Davis is 25 miles to the north of Alpine if you want to look there also.
Terlingua-Lajitas-Surrounding area
Running a food service operation in this part of Texas is a leap of faith and a labor of love. Remote, so supply and labor are always an issue. Power and water are not guaranteed. It gets ridiculously hot during the summer days so tourism is non-existent for several months. Thus, there tends to be turnover, irregular hours, and impromptu closures. Check ahead if you are relying on something specific. That said, those who make the effort accomplish the almost impossible. Great eats are available to those who need them after expending huge calories in the parks.
For the best classics and more refined service, the Starlight Theatre Restaurant & Saloon and the restaurants at the Lajitas Golf Resort, which include Candelilla Cafe, Boardwalk Bakery & Pizzeria, Thirsty Goat Saloon and Lajitas General Store are great options. For a combination of sunset views and good food, the Mountain View Restaurant at Chisos Mountain Lodge in the National Park cannot be beaten.
A little less expensive, a little more casual (not that the first group requires a suit and tie) but just as good are Bad Rabbit Cafe, High Sierra Bar & Grill, and La Kiva Restaurant & Bar, for American and varied menus; DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ and Long Draw Pizza serving their obvious specialties; and Chili Pepper Cafe, Tivo’s Place, Espresso Y Poco Mas, and Taqueria El Milagro for excellent Mexican food.
There are also those serving in outdoor settings or out of inventive food trucks. Great for getting started in the morning, pit stops in the day, or getting something in your body at the end of a hike, ride, and float. El Gordo’s Grill, Ghosttown Grill, and Rio Bravo Food Truck for great, authentic Mexican; Big Bend Resort & Adventure Cafe, Venga, and The Bella Bean Coffee Shop for caffeine fixes and small bites; Big Bend Resort & Adventure Cafe for lunch eaten outdoors; and Milky Way Treats for amazing baked goods and ice cream.
Marathon
Every restaurant in Marathon is great. There are just not that many of them. The Gage Hotel has a deserved reputation for high-end hospitality. That results in large part from its restaurants-12 Gage Restaurant for steaks and game, the White Buffalo Bar for burgers and the like, and V6 Coffee Bar for breakfast, pastries, lunch, and morning pick-me-ups all day. The
Brick Vault Brewery and Barbecue is a top-drawer barbecue spot, landing a coveted spot on the Texas Monthly Top 50 barbecue joints. Oasis Cafe is a great lunch option as is J & G Grill for burgers, even if it is inside a convenience store. Big Bend Pizza earned raves but has had trouble staying open-check before you make it Plan A without a Plan B. The French Company Grocer and Rita’s Cantina are “occasional restaurants,” with the former being a general store that serves hamburger meals on Friday nights and Rita occasionally cooking outdoors at the Marathon Motel.
For anything approaching after-hours fun other than a special event, it is the White Buffalo Bar at the Gage.
Nightlife in Terlingua is erratic and sorta legendary. The Starlight Theatre usually has music Thursday through Saturday nights. The Boathouse Bar is a hot spot for the locals, while the High Sierra Bar and Grill has a variety of trivia/karaoke/sometimes music most nights.
Where To Drop A Time (Shop Local!)
The best thing to shop for in Alpine and Marathon is art and culture; in Terlingua and Lajitas you are buying services. A note of caution-many of these businesses are passion projects or side hustles. They are likely open Friday and Saturday and might have irregular (or no) hours early in the week. Check first if your heart is set on a particular store. Our thoughts.
In Alpine, we loved the Curry Studio and Gallery, first and foremost for the great work by Tom Curry and second for how representative it is of the area. Tom Curry moved to Alpine in the midst of a successful career in Austin as an illustrator. Tom was on hand to tell us about the journey he and his wife are on. It is clear that they have found the secret to living authentically in the region. It was a great stop, and we managed to walk away with a small piece that we treasure.
The Currys’ story is repeated in degree throughout Alpine. While Tom’s art spoke to Texas Ten, other visitors will be just as enamored with other artists. Unfortunately, two of the best places to look were Gallery on the Square and the Catchlight Art Gallery; each was a total loss after a May 2024 fire. Gallery on the Square is scheduled to reappear as Big Bend Gallery in the fall of 2024 and it appears as if the Catchlight artists might share that space. Galeria Sibley and Whitlock Studio of FIne Art are good opportunities. For just looking, the Francois Fine Art Gallery and the Museum of the Big Bend, both at Sul Ross, have exhibits.
What is art and what is craft is in the eye of the beholder. There are a variety of boutiques, gift stores, vintage stores, and curio stores that specialize in one-of-a-kind items. Most are on Holland Ave., between 2nd and 5th streets. The 100 Block had more stores, but that is the area that suffered the fire loss and is rebuilding.
Emergo Arts Boutique (women’s apparel), The Magical Warehouse (toy store), Wasserman Wranch Store (alpaca products and clothing plus other ranch life items), Ring Tail records (vintage vinyl and music memorabilia), Javelinas on Holland (denim, accessories, and gifts), La Azteca (handmade custom jewelry), Brews and Hues (gifts and local artisan products plus craft beers and select wines), and Front Street Books ( a really great independent bookstore) are all on Holland Avenue.
Chicas Shoppe, Pink Doe Boutique (women’s apparel), Murphy Street Provisions (outdoor supplies and the best ees and “see I have been there” gifts on town), and Murphy Street Mercado (fair trade and Mexican imports plus plants), The Cheshire Cat Antiques (vintage and antique goods), Deja Vu (more thrift than antique), Gumslinger’s (old-fashioned candy shop), and Far West Guitars (western hip guitar and musical instrument store) are all on cross streets to Holland or otherwise close by.
“Suburban Alpine” offers at least one store worth leaving downtown for. Big Bend Saddlery on SH 90 is your destination for authentic cowboy gear. The leather smell alone will capture you.
In Marathon, make an appointment to see the spectacular work of photographer James Evans in his studio. His work is some of the defining art of the Big Bend region. The Klepper Gallery is similarly devoted to the work of artist-in-residence E. Dan Klepper. There is not always an exhibit on display, but when there is it can be breathtaking. The V6 Gift Shop at the Gage Hotel is western class to the max while French Co. Grocer is a unique general store where you might find needed gear, distinctive foodstuffs, and definitely will find great beer.
Terlingua
The best that Terlingua has to offer is the spectacular surrounding scenery. The country is beautiful but rough. If you are new to the area or the type of activity you want to engage in, a guide is a must. Here is a partial list with their specialties.
Angell Expeditions (floats and hikes)
Big Bend Boating and Hiking (floats and hikes)
Big Bend River Tours (floats and vehicles)
Desert Sports (floats, biking, and mountain biking)
Far Flung Outdoor Center (floats and vehicle)
Far West Texas Outfitters (floats and hiking)
Hidden Dagger Adventures (floats and hiking)
Wild Adventure Outfitters (floats and hiking)
Get Lost Tours (vehicles and hiking)
Go Big Bend (vehicles)
Lucky Sun Jeep Tours (vehicle and hiking)
Explore Big Bend (hiking)
Big Bend Stables (horseback)
Lajitas Livery (horseback)
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
There are endless options for cool places to stay.
In Alpine, The Holland Hotel will be even more awesome when the renovation is complete. Between camp and Americana, there is the Maverick Inn, a great western motor court. Similar, but with awesome views on the outskirts of town is Antelope Lodge. Also there is the newly renovated Alpine City Place, a favorite of the biking community, with 17 designer rooms.
The Quarter Seven Circle Ranch wants you to enjoy “Cattleman’s Hospitality” with them, but Texas Ten thinks they are cheating-not even the Duttons of Yellowstone Ranch fame have an on-site spa. We won’t tell if you won’t. Or choose one of our favorite options, spacious and luxurious yurts. We also like saying “yurts.” Finally, there is a passel of short-term rentals, including some stunning container homes.
Marathon is smaller, but the Gage Hotel waits for you. Many think it is the best hotel west of Fort Worth. Who are we to disagree? For families or large groups, the Gage rents out the beautifully restored five-bedroom Captain Shepard House or six distinct casitas.
Just as quaint and with a telescope-equipped “Skypark” for the best in stargazing is the Marathon Motel and RV Park. Eve’s Garden Bed & Breakfast is the opposite of original sin-it puts you in the middle of a beautiful organic garden. La Loma Del Chivo is a small community of stucco rentals that offers a holistic experience.
What can we say about Terlingua lodging? For an “edge of the world” outpost, the area has almost anything you would like menu. The crown jewel is the resort at Lajitas. 117 unique rooms and settings allow you to pick something just right for your family; great on-site dining and plenty of activities beyond the golf. You really cannot ask for more, other than somebody to pay for it.
Texas Ten is a huge fan of Base Camp in Terlingua, probably the leading glamping experience in the state. We stayed in a Tipi in late May and it was incredibly comfortable. We desperately want to return for a few nights in a bubble. Camp Elena is another great glamping option that gives you a true “alone in the desert” feel while staying incredibly comfortable. Or pick from Buzzard’s Roost or the cabins at Ten Bits Ranch.
Beyond glamping, there is Nuevo Terlingua, a four-cabin luxury-looking enterprise, and Villa Terlingua, which has three extraordinary casitas. The Big Bend Holiday Hotel perfectly captures the feel of ghost town Terlingua. Speaking of ghost towns, Ghost Town Casitas has several options, none cooler than their mirrored project, the “Ghost House.” Paisano Azul Ranch combines luxury short-term rentals with basic campsites. Seems like a perfect set-up for a friends group with camping-age children. The funky can be found at Retro Rents the Painted Ladies with retro trailers as accommodations.
For a more motel feel, visitors have been launching their adventures from the Far Flung Adventure Center since 1978. Willow House is a mix of hotel and Air B’n’B with a main house for the mixing and casitas for the relaxing and the introspection. The six rooms at La Posada Milagro put you within stumbling distance for morning coffee or evening Tex-Mex with stunning views as an added attraction. The bungalows at the Boathouse Bar put you within stumbling distance of, well, you know.
Finally, you came for the park, and you can stay in the park at the Chisos Mountain Lodge.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
Alpine has a truly unique RV Park opportunity if you are up for staying with rescue Kangaroos!
More traditional options at
Tierra Del Sol Basecamp (primitive camping)
In Marathon, you have the Marathon Motel and RV Park
But around Terlingua, the options are plentiful:
Paisano RV Village RV Park & Inn
Maverick Ranch RV Park (at Lajitas Golf Resort)
Cottonwood Campground (in the national park)
Rio Grande Village (in the national park)
Special Events
When considering the best time to visit Brewster County, there are several considerations. First, the County is not populous but its larger events are well attended. Make sure you secure lodging in advance for the bigger festivals and events. Second, daytime temperatures in the summer can be impressive, particularly in the parks. Make sure you are comfortable with the climate. The fall is glorious on that count. That said, these are all worth taking in.
All across the region, including not just Alpine, Marathon, and Terlingua, but also Marfa and Fort Dave, the music and fun scene explodes in late July every year with the Viva Big Bend Music Festival. A good time will be had by all.
More specific to Alpine, there are two big art shows. In September, the Trappings of Texas focuses on Western Art and bespoke western wear. In November Alpine’s Artwalk turns the town into one huge gallery wrapped inside a party.
Cowboys are celebrated through word in March with the Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering and through action in August at the Big Bend Ranch Rodeo.
In March, the rockhounds take over the town for the Alpine Gem & Mineral Show.
Marathon has its own unique traditions. In calendar year order, there is a community wide fish fry and celebration in February and a big Fourth of July shindig. In September, people come from around the area to test their ranch cooking chops at the West Fest Cabrito Cook Off. In October, the “Marathon2Marathon” is a great race, as the terrain and weather are usually perfect for running 26.2 miles if you are foolish enough to have that desire. Shorter distances are available. Later in the month, the French Grocer hosts an annual John Prine tribute, may the legendary songwriter rest in peace. The Christmas celebration the first Saturday in December has a distinct Latin tinge with Fiesta de Noche Buena.
One cannot reasonably list events in Terlingua in calendar order; the pressing question is “When is the Chili Cook Off?” The answer is late October/early November each year. This thing is famous for a reason. If you can get there and have a bedroll, it is a Texas Checklist Item. The third weekend in October there is the Terlingua Music Bash, another popular event. In March it is an Independence Day celebration, which all good Texans will recognize as a celebration of Texas independence, followed by our personal favorite, the Desert Chihuahuan Challenge, where we find out exactly who is the world’s fastest Chihuahua. Actually, any small breed can race.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
It is pretty simple. Black Jack’s Crossing Golf Course at the Lajitas Golf Resort is one of Texas’ finest; some think it is Texas’ finest. The scenery cannot be duplicated or even approximated. For a tamer, much less expensive alternative there are nine holes at the semi-private Alpine Country Club.
Major carrier flights will still require a drive. Midland-Odessa is about two and a half hours to the Northeast while El Paso is over three and a quarter hours drive to the west.
Getting to Brewster County
Make sure your tank is filled and you have plenty of water. The county seat in Alpine is in far west Texas about 50 miles north of the “Big Bend” in the Rio Grande River. The cross roads are SH 90 east/west and SH 118 north/south. The nearest interstate is I-10 over 60 miles to the north. That puts Alpine over four and a half hours slightly southwest of the geographic center of the state in Brady, Texas. Windshield time from major Texas cities can be found here.
Major carrier flights will still require a drive. Midland-Odessa is about two and a half hours to the Northeast while El Paso is over three and a quarter hours drive to the west. American, Southwest, Delta, and United serve Midland while El Paso has those four airlines plus Alaska, Allegiant, and Frontier. Smaller craft can use the Alpine Municipal Airport or perhaps the Lajitas International Airport. If you are going to be a guest of the resort they will help arrange travel from select cities using the Lajitas Airport.
History
The first inhabitants 9,000 years ago were nomadic hunter-gatherers. By 1000 AD, the Natives who were here were primitive farmers. By the 18th century, the inhabitants had become part of the Pueblo Culture of Big Bend.
The first European to venture into this region was the Spanish explorer and conquistador Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1535, followed by others shortly after that. During much of the 18th and 19th centuries, Comanche raiding parties entered Mexico through the Big Bend region to raid neighboring Mescalero Apaches. As a result, several forts were established by the Mexican government. In 1859, a camel expedition led by 2nd Lieutenant Edward L. Hartz left Fort Davis in search of a location to establish a fort near the Mexican border along the Comanche Trail. Still, the Civil War broke out before this could be achieved.
Once the war ended, white settlers came to begin cattle ranching. Cattle rustling and raids were common, however, leading to the establishment of Camp Peña Colorado for the Tenth United States Cavalry Buffalo Soldiers to deter Indian activity. Monitoring and the cattle industry continued to grow, especially in the late 1800s with the expansion in 1882 of the Galveston, Harrisburg, and San Antonio Railway, which spawned the growth of new cities along its route. As this was an essential route for trade and commerce, the Texas Rangers were assigned to protect the residents and businesses in this area.
In 1887, just five years after the railroad came to this region, Brewster County, the largest county in Texas, was officially named after Henry P. Brewster, who had served as personal secretary to Sam Houston and later Secretary of War and Navy. In 1897, mercury mining began in Brewster County and started a boom that brought eager entrepreneurs to the area. Most notable was Chicago shoe salesman Howard E. Perry, whom the locals dubbed “El Perrito” (little dog) for his tenacious business savvy. He built the Chisos Mining Company in 1903, which became the largest mercury mine in the nation.
Due to the mining industry, Brewster County’s population exploded, making this area a key shipping route for railways carrying other natural resources, such as rubber, silver, and candelilla wax, which were traded nationally in the early 1900s.
The isolation of the mines throughout the region made raids from Mexico frequent, adding to the tensions in the early years of the Mexican Revolution. By 1912, resorts located along the Rio Grande were seeking protection from the US Government, which led to the stationing of troops throughout Big Bend. Though they served as a deterrent, the most notable raid occurred in 1916, in Glenn Spring, which led to a bloody shootout resulting in the stationing of 116,957 national guardsmen posted until August of 1920 throughout numerous locations along the river.
By the end of World War l, raids were less of a problem. Despite this, the loss of the workforce during the war led to a drop in population. Cattle ranching remained important, but the industry declined when the Highland Hereford Breeders Association was organized in 1918. By 1930, the number of cattle heads had increased, but a severe drought that year forced cattlemen to shoot their herds because they could not feed them. Cattle ranchers were hit hard during the Depression, and most had given up and moved away by 1936, resulting in a great deal of land, formerly ranch land, becoming part of the Big Bend National Park system, which had begun in 1933.
Though the establishment of the park was a source of constant frustration in the early days for the citizens of Brewster, by 1944, tourism had become a major source of income for the area. Park tourism has since replaced mining and cattle ranching, leading to Big Bend being the best-known tourist attraction in Texas, bringing over one-half million visitors annually.
According to the 2020 census, Brewster County has a population of 9,546 and a median income of $47,747. 51% of the population is White, 41.5% are Hispanic, and the remaining 7.5% are Black, Asian, and those of two or more races. 47.7% of the residents have a bachelor’s degree or higher.
Notable people from Brewster County include Photographer James H. Evans, Texas Politician Susan Combs, American Folk Music Evangelist Billy Faier, and Ballerina, Martial Artist, and Actress Anne Winton.
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