Field Guides
Bryan, Texas
(Brazos COUNTY)
Aggie spirit meets historic downtown amid rolling Brazos River landscapes.
Highlights
Bryan is the county seat of Brazos county but neighboring College Station is the capital of The Texas Agricultural and Mechanical University empire, supported by hundreds of thousands of Fighting Aggie ex-students (never “alums”) foot soldiers. Texas ten is a committed union of Baylor Bears but we admit that our sisters and brothers on the other end of SH 6 are unique. For better or worse, there is not another university like it anywhere. The sprawling campus is now home to about 75,000 students. Given the size of the university and the commitment the school’s supporters feel towards it, there is no question about what is the dominant force in the daily life of this county.
A relatively recent addition to the campus is the George H.W. Bush Presidential Library. As with most new presidential libraries, the story it tells is uniquely American. Of course, College Station is a town built around college life. That means plenty of outstanding entertainment options and a raucous nightlife.
Bryan, the county seat, borders College Station. In fact, when referring to the cities most Texans always include the two as one; it is “Bryan-College Station.” Downtown Bryan is enjoying a renaissance. Rather than a traditional square built around the courthouse, there is a wide “strip” with parking in the interior and a great mix of retail, restaurants, and nightlife on both sides. A day and evening in downtown Bryan will be well spent.
The County Courthouse
When Texas Ten made its official visit to Brazos county, the courthouse was in the midst of renovation. Apparently, renovation has been pretty much a constant state since the building sprang to life in the mid-1950’s. The original design emphasized separating the county’s judicial and non-judicial functions with the non-judicial jobs housed in pods connected to the main building. Unfortunately, the courthouse was landlocked and the need for government pace grew along with the county’s population.
The county responded by incorporating the pods into what has become a massive block-like structure that is vaguely of mid-century design. The courthouse sits immediately off of a very busy 26th Street and there is little to no green space. Even so, the county keeps growing and the courthouse keeps expanding. Aesthetically, this is not a top-tier Texas courthouse, but Texas Ten is sure the needed business gets done on the inside.
Things To See And Do
Tour the school. Aggies (for the uninitiated, Texas A & M students and ex-students are known as Aggies because the school originally focused on agricultural sciences) are fiercely proud of their institution and happy to show it off. There is an endless list of traditions that Aggies honor so learning the stories behind those traditions can tell you quite a bit about Texas. Spirit runs highest when Aggies take the field or court so a visit to a home game should be high on your list if you can get tickets and find a place to stay.
In the event you are there for a home football game, make sure to attend Midnight Yell the evening before. It is simultaneously impressive and scary. Aggies sort of get their back up when other Texans make the “cult” reference, but go to Midnight Yell and form your own opinion.
There is considerably less controversy about the George H.W. Bush Presidential Library on campus. The first president Bush led an amazing life, from growing up among the northeast elite, to being a young war hero, tho eschewing the normal career path for someone of his status to become a Texas oilman, to a storied career in public service and ending up as the Leader of the Free World. The library does a remarkable job of telling George’s and Barbara’s story in the context of America’s role in the 20th-century world. The building and grounds are exceptional.
Off-campus life in College Station is spirited to say the least. More details in the restaurant and nightlife section but one must visit is the Dixie Chicken, one of Texas’ foremost honky tonks. Country music lives here. Try not to be too bad because you might end up on Santa’s naughty list. And Santa has a substantial operation near College Station at Santa’s Wonderland, an absolutely massive celebration of the Christmas season.
Bryan is a little less A & M centric than College Station, but only a little. Downtown is hopping with energy these days. Texas Ten recently spent a “First Friday” evening there and had an absolute blast. Texas Ten just loves old theaters and loves them even more when they are restored. One of the best is the Queen Theater-take in a show there. More details of the downtown area are in the Food/Nightlife and Shopping sections.
Texas A & M agricultural science students have done a lot of good for the world. One thing they did for Texas was to start the now multi-billion dollar Texas wine industry. That happened with one of Texas’ bets and most famous wines, Messina Hof, which started in Bryan. The founders decided that Texas wine could be good based on a feasibility study from an Aggie graduate student and the rest is history. The winery and tasting room is a definite must do for those interested in the fermented grape.
Lovers of the outdoors and of watersports flock to Lake Bryan for fishing, skiing, hiking, mountain biking and all other types of summertime fun. If you are looking for something a little more exotic, outside of Bryan you can find Wild Animal Safari Aggieland for drive through encounters with many interesting animals.
While Texas A & M gives the sports fan hundreds of opportunities to cheer during the year, they do take the summer off. In their stead you could catch a Brazos Valley Bombers game. The Bombers play in the texas Collegiate League as an independent team and are a great value for a night at the ballpark.
Food, Drinks and Music (Eat Local!)
Driving around Brazos county on the major thoroughfares and one could easily believe that there is some sort of weird zoning ordinance mandating that only chain restaurants feed the city. The Brazos county food scene is surprisingly inventive, diverse, and robust but you have to know where to look. Texas Ten is your lookout. So here we go.
Bryan/College Station have some great celebration-night (or day) restaurants, whether they be steakhouse, upscale American, or classic Italian. For the graduation, big date, or we closed the deal blow out, here are some considerations.
Upper-end steakhouses include Christopher’s World Grill, The Republic Steakhouse
Porter’s, Gate 12 (uniquely situated Easterwood Airport if you like to watch planes land and take-off), and a South American option at Caso de Brasil.
Campfire at the Stella Hotel and Ronin serve farm to table meals that will make you think you are in Napa Valley.
Casa Mangiare and Luigi’s Patio Ristorante offer old-world Italian in a comfortable setting.
A little bit lighter on the wallet, but hitting the sweet spot with elevated cuisine from the world over served in casual sophistication is also possible.
There are a group of great places who concentrate on what Texas Ten knows and greatly enjoys as “upscale comfort.” You cannot miss in this category with Canteen Bar & Grill at the Cavalry Court Hotel, 3rd on Main in the Bryan downtown, Marfa Texas Kitchen not far off SH 6 to the south of the campus, The Vintage House at Messina Hof Winery, Brazos Proper at the Texas A & M on-campus hotel, Stella Southern Cafe on SH 6, or Mess Waffles which serves wildly good breakfast all day near the intersection of Texas Ave. and University Ave., next to the campus. Station 36, the bistro at the LaSalle Hotel in downtown Bryan, gets rave reviews but is currency closed for the property’s ongoing facelift.
Believe it or not, there is a world outside of Texas. Of course Texans can and have improved it. The evidence is found at Solt, which is pronounced “salt” and does great seafood among other world cuisine, Fusion Peru serving Peruvian twists on American plates, Elia Cafe is an elegant Spanish Cafe and tapas bar, Urban Table has a varied, surprising menu in a kick-ass setting, and Shiraz Shish Kabob combines Persian and Turkish for the best Mediterranean in the area. Elia Cafe is in Bryan, the rest are closer to campus in College Station.
Then there is “traditional comfort” of the roadhouse/cafe/diner variety. These places have served thousands of meals and almost all of them left a warm feeling with the customer. Several Aggieland legends in this group.You cannot get more legendary than the Dixie Chicken, which has served Aggies and their friends for half a century. You might hear the next Lyle Lovett or Robert Earl keen here while enjoying your burger or fried something. We say that because this is where Lyle and Robert Earl first made their names. In Northgate right by the school.
Layne’s Chicken Fingers is also an Aggie institution, famous for its chicken fingers. For a slightly more varied menu and a great sports bar atmosphere there is Wings N More, now a small chain but with its roots in College Station. Hullabaloo Diner in College Station goes all in on the Texas A & M theme, but its food is good enough to have been featured on Diners, Dives, and Drive-Ins.
In Bryan, the list of down-home is full up. You will leave satisfied from J. Cody’s, Marie’s Bar & Grill, Feed Barn, Longhorn Tavern Steakhouse, Sodolaks, or Chicken Oil Co. Chicken Oil is temporarily closed for renovations. Longhorn Tavern and Sodolaks are particularly revered. Zeitman’s Grocery Store is an outstanding and unusual place for lunch as not many Texas towns have real-deal delis like Zeitman’s.
Burger wars are ongoing, to the traveler’s benefit. The combatants of note in College Station are Harvey Washbangers Bar & Grill, Burger House, Burger Mojo, and Grub Kitchen & Bar. Harvey Washbangers is the ultimate hang-out spot with a great bar and a laundromat. Many an Aggie romance started here.
In Bryan, the Proudest Monkey is the epitome of the modern craft burger bar with great drinks to go with it. But Top of the Hill Greasy Burgers (yes that is the actual name) serves the burgers your ancestors ate and you will love with your whole heart.
Bryan/College Station really brings it when it comes to Mexican food. You can find high-end “authentic Mexican”; traditional Tex-Mex; or really, really good fast Mexican (think street taco adjacent but served off the street).
Let’s break it down. For the “we are actually in Mexico eating actual Mexican food” vibe try Frida’s Kitchen & Bar, Tacos La Perlita, Cilantro, Raspas El Payasito at Texas Meat Market in Bryan or Taqueria Poblano.
For the great street taco experience there is Taqueria El Trio, Taqueria El Sol De Mexico, or Taco Crave.
For the Tex-Mex fare that Texan base 330%-40% of their diet on, the best are
Jesse’s Taqueria & Bakery, Taco Bar, Fuego Tortilla Grill (now a small chain but started with the popular spot in College Station), Jose’s Restaurant, and Don Chente Mexican Grill & Seafood Restaurant
Did you say Pizza? You should have. You will get fierce arguments from fans of Rough Draught Whiskey and Pizza Bar, Napa Flats Wood Fired Kitchen, Blue Baker, Mr. G’s Pizzeria, and RX Pizza.
If you are interested in casual Italian with pizza available, look to 1860 Italia or Fritella.
The barbecue does not disappoint at either All the King’s Men BBQ or Lamar & Niki’s BBQ & Soul Food.
Bryan/College Station hosts an astonishing variety of Asian-inspired restaurants, including the sushi spots. By major influence you can have Chinese at Shun de Mom, Imperial Chinese & Sushi, Chef Cao, or Wokamole. Thai food comes from Kluay Kluay or Bangkok Thai Chicken. Vietnamese can be found at Twisted Noodle Cafe, IPHO, or Nam Cafe. The best Korean is at Mong Chon Grill, Taste of Korea. Japanese and/or Sushi at Aji Sushi, Blue Fin Sushi, and 40 Tempura.
Last but not least, American seafood is well-represented also. Texas Ten includes cajun in that category and notes that Texas A & M’s relatively recent entry into the SEC apparently opened the market for Louisanians to invade with their crawfish. We think that is a good thing, but are not 100% sold yet. Test the cajun with us at The Remnant of Nawlins or Poche’s, For “regular seafood”there is Fish Daddy’s Grill House and Shipwreck Grill in a charming restaurant built like a ship. Aggies love it. Shipwreck grill will be moving to a new location soon, we hope they keep the boat.
So it is a university town(s). A huge university at that. As one might expect, the Bars are abundant. Northgate is the fun spot right off campus. On any weekend night while school is in session (and weekends start on Thursday evening with no Friday classes or maybe earlier in the week for those with no morning classes) the area will be packed with revelers. Northgate is home to the Dixie Chicken and, at last count, at least 25 other bars and night spots. Just crawl them, but if you like to dance, Hurricane Harry’s might be a good stop. .
If you really need to check them out before being on scene, here is your Northgate list-
It is entirely understandable that you may want something different in the evening from thousands of undergrads or people who want to believe they are undergrads. For a more relaxed, sophisticated vibe we suggest heading to downtown Bryan. We started at the bar for Hush & Whisper Distilling Company and it would be easy to not leave until closing time. Great drinks.
But there are plenty of other intriguing spots. All the King’s Men Taphouse is “bourbon, barbecue and beer.” The Crown Bar in the renovated Queen Theater is a swank spot. Lone Star Meadery specializes in…mead. Halo Bar stands as proof that Bryan/College Station made it to the 21st century as it bills itself as LGBTQIA+ friendly, not something one would have thought likely a couple of decades ago. The Velvet Leaf Cigar Lounge will let your inner Winston Churchill loose. Slightly off the main drag, West End Elixir Company serves magical craft cocktails. The Boiler Room at the La Salle Hotel is down for renovations but will be great again soon.
Other great bars include the Primrose Path Fine WIne Bar at the Republic Steakhouse, Hershels at the Stella Hotel, Carney’s Pub and Grill, the Tilted Pint, Gate 12 Bar & Grill and The 101.
Wine bars and winery tasting rooms are plentiful, of course, starting with Messina Hof. Do not stop there-try Perrine Winery, Knox Wine Bar, and Downtown Uncorked. For locally brewed beer there is Blackwater Draw Brewing Company and KinderHill Brew Lab, although KinderHill is in the midst of a move and will reopen in the fall of 2024. In addition to Hush & Whisper, the folks at Rio Brazos Distillery make great whiskey.
Where To Drop A Time (Shop Local!)
You can buy your Texas A & M insignia item at say-any retail store in the county. The largest is and best-stocked is probably Aggieland Outfitters.
If you are in the market for something that does not have Texas A & M stamped on it, you have plenty of options. Texas Ten spent a pleasant afternoon trolling Main Street in Bryan. For the literary types among us, Ed’s Bookshop is an absolute delight, as is Ed. We have been in just under a million decorator stores on Texas county squares and can confidently say Old Bryan Marketplace is a masterpiece of its kind. We wanted to re-decorate our house. Across the street from Old Bryan Market are two great vintage markets, the Attic and the Rabbit Hole. On the other end of the strip Burr’s Boho has unique restored furniture for a one-of-a-kind touch. Coco’s Pantry is a great kitchen goods store with a huge teaching kitchen. Catalena Hatters can make you a real Texan with your custom made hat. Those are the highlights, there are plenty of more places that will likely catch your fancy.
College Station shopping is geared to the 75,000 students who inhibit the place. If you are in town to outfit your Aggie daughter, she will know where to go. If you want to surprise her, pick from the many boutiques here. You might find yourself something too!
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
Bryan/College Station has some great unique hotels. A word of warming, however, on game day weekends they are next to impossible to get into and probably actually impossible to afford. If you are there some other time, The Stella, The George, and Hotel McCoy offer bespoke lodging. When its renovation is complete, the LaSalle will join this list. Cavalry Court and the Texas A & M Hotel and Conference Center give you the full Aggie experience. For bed and breakfast type lodging, the Messina Hof Winery and the 7F Lodge are wonderful. For do it yourselves and large groups, VRBO has hundreds of options. If you are a golfer, the lodging at the Traditions Golf Course would be right up your alley.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
The hundreds of thousands of people flocking to the area on weekends did not escape the attention of RV Park developers. Here is a partial list:
Penberthy RV Resort (on campus)
Olsen RV Park (on campus)
Equine Complex RV Park (on campus)
Special Events
Texas Ten cannot begin to summarize the multitude of on-campus events at A 7 M. So just look them up here. Bryan, on behalf of the county, does not miss an opportunity to celebrate. As we noted, Bryan’s First Friday events are among the best of their type we have seen. So that is a good place to start. They then kick it up a notch for Mardi Gras, St. Patrick’s Day, Cinco de Mayo, an Italian Fest, Juneteenth, Pride Month in June, Fourth of July, a celebration of Hispanic culture, Halloween celebrations and markets, and an all out assault on Christmas.
Music and art are incorporated into almost all of these celebrations of holidays and cultures, but music and art become the reason for the celebration at the Hullabaloo Music Fest each Labor Day weekend, the Troubadour Music and Barbecue Festival each May, and the Downtown Bryan Street & Art Fair in April. It is almost like any weekend is a good weekend to be in Bryan/College Station.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
Golf is all over Brazos county. A high-end public course at The Phillips Event Center and the course on campus at Texas A & M combine accessibility, reasonable pricing and quality outings. The Traditions Club is a very high end private course based on a golfing community. Likewise, Miramont is an ultra-exclusive country club in Bryan with a Robert Trent Jones II-designed course. If you get a chance at either, take it. In College Station, the country club is Pebble Creek. To work on your game or have a party, Big Shots Golf is like Top Golf on steroids.
Getting to Brazos County
Bryan is either on the east end of central Texas or the west end of East Texas depending on who you listen to. SH Hwy 6 running northwest from the Western Houston suburbs will take you right to Bryan and College Station, almost exactly halfway between Houston and Waco. SH 190 running southwest from East Texas meets SH 6 near Bryan. The closest interstate is I-45 about 35 miles to the northeast. In the larger picture, Bryan is about three hours and 30 minutes east southeast from the geographic center of the state in Brady, Texas. Windshield time from major Texas cities can be found here.
If flying in, Easterwood Airport is served by American Airlines through DFW. For a broader range of major carriers, you have to use George Bush Intercontinental or Hobby Airport in Houston, with Bush Intercontinental an hour and a half drive away, about 20 minutes closer than Hobby. Smaller craft can use Easterwood as well as Coulter Field in Bryan or Hearne Municipal Airport 26 miles to the north of Bryan.
History
The area now known as hunter-gatherers inhabited Brazos County for over 12,000 years. Spearheads and mammoth remnants have been found in it. Early Spanish explorers traveled The Old San Antonio Road (also known as the Camino Real) and documented evidence of Tonkawa Indians, seasonal nomadic buffalo hunters, Apaches, and Comanches in the area, but no Spanish settlements were established here until Stephen F. Austin’s second colony.
Brazos County was established in a unique way. Initially, it was a part of the larger Washington County. However, due to the Brazos River dividing the area, a decision was made to create a new county. In 1841, Navasota County was formed, and the following year, it was renamed Brazos County. The first county seat was Boonville, named after Mordecai Boone, whose uncle was Daniel Boone. However, in 1866, when the Houston and Texas Central Railroad decided to expand, the new community of Bryan was formed. Its rapid growth led to Bryan becoming the new county seat.
Farmers grew primarily corn and some cotton in the county’s early days. As soon as the railroad came, however, cotton production increased dramatically. By the time the Civil War began, the population was nearly half White and half enslaved. The county voted enthusiastically in favor of secession and used the railroad to mobilize the Confederate war effort. Local companies and regiments were formed to include county-wide participation in one way, shape, or form.
Reconstruction had lingering effects on the county, and strife between the white and black labor contracts persisted. Millican and Wilson’s Plantations provided schools for black children, but interracial conflicts were common. The Freedman’s Bureau in this area worked to smooth over relations within the county, but in 1868, tensions had come to a head, and the Millican race riots broke out when the Ku Klux Klan decided to march through the black neighborhoods within the county. Several lynchings and armed encounters ensued, resulting in the deaths of several Blacks, including a prominent Black leader and clergyman.
Politics in Brazos County after the Civil War were equally disruptive. The policies of the Reconstruction Era removed former Confederates who had previously been allowed to hold office. Republicans dominated political offices, but prominent families such as the Millicans upheld Democratic beliefs and voting practices. A Democratic stronghold remained in this county throughout the 1950s, but as political ideologies shifted, the country became a Republican stronghold.
By 1870, the population in Brazos County and cotton production had tripled. Sheep, cattle, and hog ranching began, and moderate growth and success continued. In 1890, for the first time, a black majority and an influx of European immigrants steadily arrived. More railways began to expand through this area, and in 1910, Texas A&M University in College Station was formed.
The end of the nineteenth century saw cotton as the major cash crop, yet tracts of land were set aside for corn production, primarily tended to by Black tenant farmers and sharecroppers. During the Great Depression, farmers left the area in droves, searching for work elsewhere, and many farms in the county failed. However, with the mechanization of farm equipment in the 1940s, residents saw a rebirth in the viability of the land in this area despite a temporarily depleted workforce due to World War II. Oil was discovered in 1942, and a new industry emerged to bolster the existing farming and ranching industries. In 1960, Texas A&M began a major expansion project that contributed to the growth in the population and commerce of Bryan and College Station. By the 1980s, many Hispanic immigrants had moved into the area, making it one of the most densely populated counties in the state.
Today, the population in Brazos County has reached 233,849. According to the 2020 census, 60% are White, 10% are Black, 10% are Hispanic, and 20% are two or more races.
45.8% hold a bachelor’s degree or higher, the median income is $60,393, and the employment rate is 61.3%.
Some notable people who call Brazos County home are actor Raini-Alena Rodriguez and actor-doctor Bruno Dubeux de Andrade. In the sports arena, baseball great Pat Mahomes and football cornerback Derrick Hatchett are also from Bryan, Texas.
Primary Sources:
Texas State Historical Society
Primary Sources:
OTHER: COLLEGE STATION