Field Guides
Angleton, Texas
(Brazoria COUNTY)
Coastal wetlands where Texas won independence and beaches beckon.
Highlights
The area that is now Brazoria County has been the launch point for civilizing Texas for centuries. The combination of proximity to the coast and fertile landscapes made the location a logical spot to build a country or at least a state. Consequently, Brazoria County is a great place to experience Texas history up close and personal.
In addition, the different ecosystems in the county give rise to a wildly diverse ecological experience. You can bird, fish, or hunt to your heart’s content. The county abuts Harris County and Houston to the north and is close enough to enjoy (or not) the impact of that economic powerhouse. So there is plenty of money for nicer restaurants.
Experiencing Brazoria County can be a difficult thing to wrap your arms around. Is it a beach vacation? A wilderness exploration? An educational journey back in time? A let-the-good-times-roll weekend? An industrial center? Well, yes, it is.
The Brazoria County Courthouse
As to the courthouse, Brazoria County just cannot stop itself from building them. The original county seat was Brazoria, where a fine-looking structure was erected in 1894. A year after construction, the county seat moved to Angleton. When the first courthouse in Angleton was finished in 1897, the Brazoria site fell into disuse until it was demolished in 1897. The Angleton location lasted until 1940 when a modern-style granite and limestone block construction model took its place. The old courthouse was “remodeled” by having its top cut off, and it now serves as a library, looking little like its original design.
In 1976, the county attached a brown brick addition to the 1940 courthouse. While the addition may have been needed and may be efficient, the brown brick is a jarring contrast to the granite and limestone on the other building. In 2003, the county constructed another annex, this one, thankfully, at another section of the square. It is a shame for a county steeped in so much Texas history not to have a grand old courthouse.
Things To See And Do
Brazoria County has different centers of gravity. Angleton is the county seat but the fourth most populous city in the county and only a sixth of the size of the county’s biggest city, Pearland. Freeport is purely industrial, while West Columbia is pleasantly rural. Surfside is Texas coastal, but Lake Jackson is suburban wealth built on its status as a “company town” for Dow Chemical. Then there are large sections of the county that are preserved for wildlife with no human development. Finally, there is Alvin which is home to the most amazing right arm God ever put on a man. All hail Nolan Ryan. Truly something for every interest.
Let’s start with the historical sites. As any Texas fourth-grader can tell you, the changes that led to Texas being a state in our union rather than a Mexican territory started with Stephen F. Austin and his “Old 300 Settlers.” Our best physical representation of Mr. Austin and an active museum with exhibits and programs explaining the history of the region and Texas can be found in Angleton at the Stephen F. Austin-Munson County Historical Park.
Texas fourth-graders will also be able to explain that the Mexican general Santa Ana was a real cad (murderous villain might be a better term) who agreed to withdraw the Mexican Army from Texas after he was discovered hiding in a private’s clothing to escape Sam Houston, who had just routed him at San Jacinto. Santa Ana’s capitulation was formalized at Fort Velasco, a fort reconstructed several times and important before and during the revolution and in the Civil War. The fort’s location is near present-day Surfside, and you can stop in to see a replica of where Texas independence became a reality.
Our fourth grader continues by noting that the months of March and April 1836 were pretty hectic. What had been the political center of Texas political life at San Felipe de Austin got wiped out in the Runaway Scrape escape from an advancing and overconfident Santa Ana. After the victory at San Jacinto, Texans had to re-establish a capital. They first chose West Columbia. Sam Houston assumed office as the first president of the republic, and the first congress met there. Again, it is a replica but a good one- it was here in West Columbia at the first national capital of Texas that Texas actually exercised its independence.
Take your Texas fourth grader to the Varner-Hogg Plantation, also in West Columbia. There he or she can help you understand that this site may be the best place to understand the entire Texas life cycle from one of Austin’s Old 300 first settling the land in 1824 to the changing agricultural base of the state in the 19th century, the scourge of slavery, the rise of political power, and finally the discovery of oil. All in one spot. As a bonus, you get to ponder the question no Texas historian has been able to answer: if you were a wealthy, powerful person named Hogg, why in the world would you name your daughter Ima?
There is so much history in Brazoria County that many communities have great museums. Texas Ten is well familiar with local historical societies and their admirable efforts. But it is true that some have more to work with than others. Brazoria County has an abundance of riches on the historical front, so try to make time for the Brazoria Historical Museum, Brazoria County Historical Museum (each in Angleton), Freeport Historical Museum, Columbia Historical Museum, the Lake Jackson Historical Museum, and the Brazosport Museum of Natural Science (in Clute).
Moving from history to biology, Brazoria County has a tremendously interesting wildlife scene. Freshwater meets saltwater with spectacular results at the Brazoria National Wildlife Refuge and the San Bernard Wildlife Refuge. The Brazoria Refuge has a discovery center to help you explore and a variety of tour options to fit your schedule, while San Bernard operates a kiosk and field office. There are all types of fishing experiences available at both Brazoria and San Bernard. The same is true for waterfowl hunting (Brazoria and San Bernard), which is about as good as it gets.
Of course, there is some of the best saltwater fishing anywhere right off the coast. Like the rest of the Texas coast, there is the Gulf of Mexico for deep sea fishing, then a barrier island or peninsula, then a series of bays between the barrier and “the mainland.” In Brazoria County, the important bays are Dunn Bay, Christmas Bay, Bastrop Bay, and Galveston Bay, which is shared with Galveston County. Just north of these bays are a series of small salty lakes and marshes that are prime duck hunting and redfish territory. Further to the north and closer to the huge Dow Chemical plant in Freeport (the largest integrated chemical plant in the world) are a series of rivers and freshwater lakes. The fishing options are overwhelming.
The beach is more than fishing, though. Tiny Surfside Beach is a great place to do all the beach things. There is surfing, boogie boarding, boat rides, jet skis, dolphin tours, or just sandcastle-building chill-out days.
Finally, Pearland offers a larger city experience and is actually suburban Houston. The city has a diverse population best exhibited through its stunning and architecturally significant Hindu and Buddhist temples.
Food, Drinks, and Music (Eat Local!)
Texas Ten is overwhelmed by the variety in Brazoria County. We are assuredly leaving out some worthy spots, but here are some that we know of, arranged by city
Alvin
Alvin scores highly in the diner/cafe/this-is-grandma’ s-cooking category. It’s hard to choose between The Busy Bee Cafe (with a history dating back to 1935 and open 24/7), Red Oak Cafe, Kelly’s Country Cookin, Dianna’s Grill, or the I Love Lucy’s Cafe on the outskirts of town.
For burgers, Dairy Land is one of those time capsule drive-ins that Texas Ten drools over. Malt n Burger also sounds yummy.
Gordon Street Tavern or the Big Axe Bar and Grill offer a more upscale version of the roadhouse experience.
High-quality barbecue at Sumthin’ Real BBQ and Joe’s Barbeque Company.
Seafood or ethnic food at La Costa Seafood, Cajun Shack, or Let’s Pho.
Italian or pizza at The Bing Pizzeria & Draft House and Tommaso’s Italian.
And, of course, a plethora of Tex-Mex, including Patron, Las Flores, Habanero, Alvin’s Restaurant, and Taco City.
Angleton
Start somewhere we usually do not, but way high marks to the Crust Pizzeria and Bar for both food and atmosphere.
The Dirty South (upscale roadhouse fare) is also a great option for date night or any other celebration.
Great but “regular” Texas diner-style eats at The Gulf Coast Grill, Smithhart’s Texas Grill, and The Picket Fence Too.
Asian at Dynasty while Italian for pizza plus-head to Giovanni’s Italian Kitchen.
For barbecue, try Wild West BBQ.
Seafood at Angleton Seafood, Umi Sushi, or Honore’s Cajun Cafe. If you need a quick fix and are far away, aim for a quick turnaround with great seafood at the Runway Cafe at the Angleton airport.
And we never forget Tex-Mex. This time at Taqueria El Jimador, La Casona Mexican Cafe, or Puerto Vallarta Tex-Mex and Bar
Brazoria
The best in Brazoria (the city) is not actually in Brazoria, but it is close. Dido’s on the San Bernard River is “reasonably high end,” with a great view.
In town it is El Portillo or Riko’s Elotes for Tex-Mex, the Burnt Biscuit for Texas cafe, and Diamond S for carnivores.
Clute, Freeport, and Lake Jackson are side-by-side, so we treat them as one.
For a date night, choose either The Grape Taste or The Picket Fence. Both offer upscale American food and a comfortably classy ambiance.
In the Texas cafe division, the field is comfortably crowded with Sweet T’s Diner, Jimmy Joe’s Texas Kitchen & Bar, Port Cafe, and two waterview establishments, Asiel’s and On the River Restaurant.
You are at the coast, so the seafood is great. Outriggers Bar & Grill, Rudy Roo’s Seafood, and Lake Jackson Seafood are all excellent picks.
People love Papadogz for smash burgers, hot dogs, or chicken strips.
“Brian” rules the barbecue world in this part of the world at Brian’s Bar B Q and the Fill Station, the second with a full bar.
Get soul-shined at Arlene’s Soul Food & BBQ and Sista White’s Cafe
For ethnic, there is one of each-Taste of Nations for Asian, Wayside Pub for British modern, Poly Pop has a fun tiki kitchen and bar, Wurst Haus for Bavarian German, and Bella Roma to get to the pasta.
Pearland
The food scene in Pearland reflects the city’s diverse population. If you are working your way across Texas, Pearland might be a good city to try something other than the chicken-fried steak, barbecue, and the Tex-Mex we hold dear.
A great place to start a food adventure would be The Monk’s for Indian. Japanese is well represented with Takumi Sushi, Yoshi Sushi Ramen, and Yanamori. Vietnamese is the star at Nu’s Woodfire Grill Banh Mi & Tapioca and at Ong Jas Viet Kitchen. If you are craving Mongolian try the cleverly named Mongo.
We have many contenders from the Mediterranean. Portara Fresh Mediterranean and Arabella Mediterranean Kitchen and Grill are coastal-inspired; Grazia Kitchen and Pizzeria, Italiano’s Restaurant, Santa Barbara Italian Cafe, and Taglia Fresh Italian are all great pasta or pizza.
Out of the ocean, prepared in a variety of ways there is Good Vibes Coastal Kitchen, Magnolia Cajun, Hometown Seafood, Boiling Dragon, or Bayou Grill.
If you are not an adventurous eater, never fear—we have plenty of traditional favorites. Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue (separate locations) are recent Pearland favorites. Killen’s is a small chain now, but its roots are in Pearland. Central Texas BBQ is newer but much appreciated. The Gripper offers killer burgers.
And Pearland can Cafe. Country Place Cafe, Stella’s Fresh Brunch, and The Rooster Breakfast Brunch and Lunch are all great.
Did we forget Tex-Mex? No. Never would we do that. Here they are- La Casita, Taqueria Mi Pueblito, and Emma’s Mex Grill.
Surfside Beach
Food always tastes better by the water, so Surfside Beach has a natural advantage. Fresh fish is the main course at almost all of these but you can usually get a hamburger or salad also. If you can, eat outside at La Sirenita Seafood ‘n’ Grill, Pier 30, Seahorse Bar & Grill, Dorado’s,, Jetty Shack, Sharkie’s at the Beach, Beach Front Deck Bar & Grill, or Daddy Shawn’s (try the burrito bowls).
West Columbia
Texas Ten is a fan of hand-crafted, old-fashioned, Red, White, and Blue foods, so Carta Valley Market Soda Shop and Elmo’s Grill are our kinds of places.
We also love Texas barbecue which is its own category separate from “American Food.” West Columbia has a winner in Republic BBQ.
The locals say Hong Kong (Chinese) and Ginger Sushi & Thai have great food even with utilitarian decor. There is seafood at Chubby’s Crabs (a Food truck with a regular location) and pizza at Drini Pizza.
Maybe we should finish with Tex-Mex? Yes, we should. Pick from Margarita Jones Tex-Mex, Takeria La Rosa, Tacos & More (two locations), or The Jimador.
Where To Drop A Dime (Shop Local!)
West Columbia is your place if you are looking for the walk-around, door-to-door boutique shopping experience. For your shopping pleasure, try Carta Valley Market, Chesney’s Jewelry & Gifts, Flowers & Gifts by Mary Lee, Ladybug Gifts and Embroidery, Lucy Goose Market, Madeline’s of West Columbia, Mandy Jane’s Boutique, Wintle & Co., and Back Roads Beauties. For antiques, it is the Not Forgotten Antique Mall and Gypsy Treasure Resale.
Speaking of antiques, Alvin has the best variety of recycled treasures. There is Ms. Ellie’s Antiques & Collectibles, Yesterday Once More Vintage, and Bettie & Belinda’s Antiques & More.
The other cities in Brazoria County tend to have a more spread-out, suburban feel when it comes to shopping. Elsewhere in the county, your options are as follows. In Angleton Brazos Avenue Market and Turquoise & Lace for better boutiques and Jeter’s Old World Antiques for vintage stuff. Brazoria has Bling & Britches and Ramblin’ Rose Antiques. Lake Jackson offers Junque Rescuers and Forever Treasurers as vintage opportunities and Tammie’s Touch, Refresh Boutique, and Uncommon Market for boutiques and gifts. Pearland has several boutiques and vintage stores, most in the general vicinity of Main St. and Broadway. There is The B’s Boutique, Foxtail Boutique, Legacy Home Decor, The Crafty Pear, and Urban Eve. For antiques, try your luck at Brows’ Aroun’ and Journey to the Past.
Surfside Beach has three primary beach and surf supply stores in Surf Station and Breaker Sports. Explore More has kayaks and other paddling options in addition to surfboards, e-bikes, and jet ski rentals. For beach transport rentals, try Pinkey’s Golf Carts and Surfside Beach Buggy Rentals. The City of Surfside Beach operates boat tours and jet ski dolphin-watching adventures. Texas Caribbean Charters specializes in “bigger events” like blue water diving, and birding and wildlife adventures. Beach Bum Horse Rides offers something a little bit different.
For fishing charters, you have many, many old salts to take you to the prize. A partial list follows.
Texas Deep Sea Fishing Charters
If this is a DIY operation, you might want to check with the pros at Surfside Marina or Freeport Marina about getting your yacht into the water. You can find plenty of bait shops also. For starters there is Bridge Bait, Saltgrass Bait, Hook’Ers Bait, Mitchell’s Pier, or Shadillac Bait Co.
Special Places to Lay Your Head (Stay Local!)
Surfside leads the way in accommodations that are out of the ordinary, courtesy of its location on the gulf and the bay.
Texas Ten holds a soft spot for the old beach hotel. You know the type-simple room but right on the beach. Has been the scene of a million fishing trips and the kids’ first time in the sand. Very reasonably priced and family-owned. A memory maker. That describes both The Ocean Village Hotel and The Breeze Hotel.
Texas Ten also holds a soft spot for ice-cold air conditioners, better thread count, and sleeping in a different room from the children. Surfside has that option also through several short-term rental options. Try any of these for the beach village, home-away-from-home treatment:
The Beach Box has an array of rentals for every size family and group.
VRBO has at least 50 more.
Elsewhere in the county, if you are staying in Angleton, the best option seems to be a historic, renovated downtown condo. In West Columbia, it would be the cottages at the Plantation Oaks Resort and RV Park. Near Alvin, the HarBet Lodge offers relaxing rural done right. Pearland is either nicer chain hotels or condos and suburban homes on a short-term rental. The same for Lake Jackson. Brazoria has a nice option with the Lone Oak River Retreat, a short-term rental with a pier on the San Bernard River. Catch your supper, and it will be fresh. Freeport also has a number of short-term rental options that combine being on or close to the river with downtown access.
For the Professional Traveller (Campgrounds and RV Parks)
The Texas beach is a favored spot for northern snowbirds. Given the climate and recreational opportunities, one would expect many RV Park and Resort options. One would not be disappointed. Here is a partial list, sorted by the town the park is closest to.
Alvin
Palm RV Park Campground
Angleton
Brazoria
Brazoria Wildlife Refuge
Freeport
Lake Jackson and the surrounding area
Pearland
San Bernard Wildlife Refuge
Surfside Beach
West Columbia
Special Events
Brazoria County has a lot to celebrate, so they do a lot of celebrating. The County Fair and Rodeo is in Angleton each October. Angleton also hosts “Market Days” with hundreds of unique vendors each March and November. November also sees the Austin town Festival centered on a reenactment of the experiences of the Old 300 settlers.
Freeport ensures that the next generation will love the outdoors just as much as their ancestors, with Kidfest each September celebrating the great outdoors. Lake Jackson is big on the Christmas season, with a large Holiday Market and a Festival of Lights in late November.
If you live in Pearland, you might have an active social calendar. Highlights include the Country Music Showcase in May and November, Springfest each March, and the Hometown Christmas Festival in December.
Fore! (Golf Courses)
When you hit your limit early, you can stay outdoors on the links. There are several options. The stand-out course is the sem-private The Wilderness in Lake Jackson. Other good to great 18-hole tracks can be had at the Austin Bayou Golf Club, Freeport Municipal, and Southwyck Golf Club, a links-style course snaking through a golf-centered subdivision in Pearland. West Brazos Golf Center in West Columbia and Hillcrest Golf Club in Alvin each are elevated nine-hole courses with lighting for night play.
Getting to Brazoria County
Brazoria is on the upper section of the Texas Gulf Coast, running north into suburban Houston. Angleton, the county seat, is at the intersection of SH-288, running north/south, and SH-35 (not I-35), running east-west. Angleton to downtown Houston is 45 miles. The nearest interstate is I-10, about 60 miles to the north. In the bigger picture, Angleton is about five hours and 45 minutes southeast of the geographic center of the state in Brady, Texas.
If you are flying in, Houston Hobby Airport is 45 minutes to the northeast of Angleton. Southwest Airlines dominates Hobby, but the airport also serves Allegiant, American, and Delta. For more varied major carrier options, Houston George Bush Intercontinental is 60 miles to the north. There are a variety of options for smaller craft including landing spots in Lake Jackson, Clear Lake, Ellington Field south of Houston, Bay City, or Sugar Land. Lake Jackson is in the county just ten minutes from Angleton. The others are all less than 40 minutes away from Angleton.
History
Before European colonization, the Karankawa Indians lived inland with nomadic bands in portable wigwams called ba-aks and traveled along the shores fishing in dugout canoes. The Early Spaniards first observed that these people were fast runners, but they were quickly introduced to horses brought over from Europe. Fiercely determined to maintain their nomadic lifestyle, Karankawas frequently clashed with settlers, most notably in 1824 in the Battle of Jones Creek, which eventually led to the resettlement of most Natives by 1850.
Due to its location on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, this region was a jumping-off point for explorers dating back to 1528 when Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca landed on one of the intercoastal islands and later LaSalle in 1689. This area is even believed to be where the infamous pirate, Jean Lafite, was said to bury his treasure.
Later home to 89 of the original “Old Three-Hundred” of Stephen F. Austin’s first settlement in 1824, Brazoria was the location for the first known clash against Mexican tyranny in 1832 with the Battle of Velasco, just before the revolution broke out. Brazoria County was officially established once independence had been secured in March of 1836. Named after the Brazos River, which divides the County into two sections, was established in 1836 when the original republic was formed and a provisional government was established. After a series of county partitions following the Texan’s fight for independence, Angleton became the county seat in 1896.
Early settlers and plantation owners made their fortunes in cotton. By 1840, there were 1,316 enslaved people in Brazoria County compared to 800 whites. The last shipment of slaves to this area arrived this year, and by 1843, Yellow Fever and flooding had dramatically reduced this number. The addition of a canal from the mouth of the Brazos to West Galveston Bay and river ports, as well as annexation and the Mexican War, had little effect on the continued cotton farming along with sugar plantations and the growth of livestock production with pig farming. Plantation life flourished, and the area became a resort for the white gentry.
At the start of the Civil War, 99% of the County voted in favor of secession. Men swarmed to enlist, a munitions production facility was built to provide Confederate weapons, and women were left to run the plantations. During the war, blockade runners along the coast continued to ship cotton and other products overland by mules. Though this area saw minimal destruction during the war, hard times fell during reconstruction with the abolition of slavery and the occupation of federal troops in the region.
Post-Civil War economics recovered slowly with the introduction of new agricultural products. Though cotton and sugar production was down from pre-war numbers, slave labor was replaced by convict labor, and production did increase. The turn of the century saw new developments and improvements to the harbors and additions to the Brazos River Valley and the Sugar Land Railways, which later merged with the Missouri Pacific Line. Oil production in 1902 at the West Columbia oilfield brought another new industry to the region.
World War I created a need for live oak nails to be manufactured for shipping in this area, and local factories provided jobs county-wide into the 1940s. Machines replaced mules in the 1930s, and farm production increased. Despite the effects of the Great Depression, diversification led to the dairy industry between 1910 and 1930. Cotton production peaked in 1920, but corn and rice were now also significant contributors to the overall bottom line in this region.
Due to the availability of natural resources, Dow Chemical’s arrival in the area in 1939 signaled the growth of port and industrial communities. When the attack on Pearl Harbor occurred in 1941, members of the Texas National Guard manned the Dow Facility. It is interesting to note that during WWII, Brazoria and nearby counties also saw their fair share of camps built to house prisoners of war.
The shrimping industry grew after the war and continues to do so today, but the post-war industry ushered in a new age of chemical factories, too. Monsanto arrived to take advantage of Dow’s products, and populations increased. The mid to late 1900s saw an increase in the petrochemical industry. Magnesium began to be extracted from local seawater, so the availability of mineral resources in the region grew. Today, oil, gas, salt, lime, sand, and gravel dominate the county economy.
Though politics had a Democratic majority from annexation through the Civil War, the number of freedmen after the war changed the political majority to Republican in the years after. Reconstruction brought significant changes to this region. An agent for the Freedman’s Bureau arrived in 1865, and by the 1870s, calls for white supremacy led to organizations forming such as the Ku Klux Klan. The Union League sought to register black voters, and the White Man’s League worked to undo this. From 1895 to the 1950s, the Democratic majority won political elections. The population shifts over time have also contributed to the political shifts in this County.
According to the 2020 census, Brazoria County’s population is 372,031. Of this number, 41.5% are White, 31.8% are Hispanic,17.8% are African-American, 8% Asian, and 2.3% comprise two or more races. The median income is above the state average at $86,083, and 32.6% of the population holds a bachelor’s degree or higher.
Selena Quintanilla-Pérez, American singer and “Tejano Music Queen,” put Brazoria County on the map when she was tragically killed in 1995. Other notable musicians from Brazoria are A.B. Quintanilla and Erika Jo Vastola. Other prominent residents, such as politicians Ron and Rand Paul, hail from Brazoria County, and pro athletes Quentin Jammer, Troy Neel, Derrick Harris, and Baseball great Nolan Ryan.
Primary Sources:
Texas State Historical Society
OTHER: PEARLAND, FREEPORT