Bellville, Texas
(Austin COUNTY)

Austin County is one of Texas’s original 23 counties; however, its courthouse is not one of the more beautiful in Texas. It is a three-story concrete block in the middle of the square. This courthouse, designed by architect Wyatt C Hedrick of Fort Worth, was built in 1962-1963. Although the courthouse is not one of Texas Ten’s favorites, its square is.

Number one on the list is a visit to San Felipe. A quick warning – the entrance to the modern town of San Felipe is unimpressive, to say the least. Do not be deterred. Your target is the San Felipe de Austin State Historical Site.  The original “Capitol of Texas” the site offers a well-done museum and large-scale recreations of the town as it existed right before its own residents intentionally burned it to the ground so Santa Anna could not have it. Period actors tell their stories. It can be done in 2-3 hours, and they will be hours well spent. 

Almost next door to San Felipe de Austin, you will find Stephen F. Austin State Park. The park centers on the Brazos River and is a prime example of the rich biodiversity that results in the “bottomland” of a major river. To Texas Te, it is a great example of why Austin picked this area to center his colony and, eventually, the state. It is just beautiful. There are plenty of trails for hiking and relaxing. 

Next is touring Bellville’s downtown square. The highlights are below in shopping and restaurants, but it suffices to say that Bellville can keep your attention. First Saturdays are particularly active. 

Newman’s Castle is an exotic piece of Texana. Mike Newman set out to prove he is a Renaissance man, and he succeeded. The local bakery owner and avid sailor (not something one would expect from Bellville) built a real-life castle, moat and all. So, if you cannot quite afford a trip to Bavaria, the tour of Newman’s castle might be a great substitute for that European vacation. 

Equine enthusiasts enjoy 7L Ranch in Cat Spring, located in the southern part of the county. 7L is many things — RV hookups, a wedding venue, and horse pens. The big benefit is that it is big. There are lots of trail riding opportunities through the beautiful countryside. (Did we mention that we think this is a pretty county?)

Bellville  

There are plenty of highlights on the culinary scene, but Texas Ten is most excited about 22 North Holland. The setting is a newly renovated masterpiece of an almost 175-year-old building. Chef Cody Vasek offers mouth-watering entrees from Texas-sourced supplies. It is one of the better examples of an “elevated Texas restaurant” that we have encountered. We loved The Gathery for lunch or a sweet treat. This coffeehouse with a robust food menu offers a relaxed ambiance and good vibes for days. Bellville is in barbecue country and the pecan-smoked meats from the Bellville Meat Market always draw a crowd.  

For those looking to time travel, The Hill Drive Inn has not changed much since it opened in 1952. The burgers are good enough on their own, but when you add the healthy side of nostalgia, you have a first-class dining experience. Featured on the Daytripper. The Cochran Grill takes the Texas diner experience up several notches, although it is lunch-dinner rather than breakfast. The best pizza in town seems to be a decided question as Empire Pizza gets rave reviews for its New York-inspired pies. We consider Empire local even though there are two locations here and one in Sugar Land.  

As with any Texas town, Tex-Mex is within striking range. There is no local consensus among Galileo’s, Cielito Linda, or El Jimador #5, so try them all. Yani’s would be the choice for Italian and they offer more American options. Perfect for groups based on their family-style service. In the bizarre/roadside attraction category, you have Trump Burger. Texas Ten avoids politics like the plague, so we are just going to put it out there and let you vote.  

The question of where to start your day is easily answered-Newman’s Bakery is the local favorite as well as a hotspot for cyclists (whether human or machine-powered) touring the countryside. For the early bird crowd, being there around the 4:00 am open time is the best way to get the full force of the wonderful bakery aroma. You can also book a tour of Newman’s Castle at the bakery or by calling the bakery.

Sealy 

In Texas, pie is a food group. In Sealy the place for pie is Lucy’s Pie House and Grill. Lunch or supper-sure. But why are we here? Pie. always the pie. Honesty saves calories, so you have more room for pie. 

Texas Ten harps on the well-seasoned griddle as the backbone of any great cafe/diner. Tony’s Family Restaurant has been around since 1936, so yes, we will have the special for breakfast, the burger at lunch, and the chicken fried for dinner. Sounds like a pretty good day.  

Smoked meats and sweet pastries probably strike the uninformed world as a weird combination. Texans know better, and the central part of the state offers plenty of examples of generations of Eastern European families combining the two in delightful bakery/meat processing operations. Prasek’s Hillje Smokehouse is a modern version of this tradition and well worth your attention. It is a set menu, and the retail operation is the store’s bread and butter (pun intended), but you will not be disappointed. 

Jin’s Asian Cafe has a following for traditional Chinese, as Americans understand it. Finally, for Tex-Mex, there is Mesquite Mexican Grill and Cazadores. Finally, the Wolf Pack Bar and Grill gets its recognition for nightlife, but daytime can also be fulfilling. 

New Ulm 

Texas Ten has yet to do a deep dive on New Ulm. But it seems to punch above its weight in the small restaurant category. The Texas Star Cafe (traditional Texas), Bel Tavolo Pizzeria a Cafe (pizza but traditional Italian also), and The Bean Fien (a local coffee house with a breakfast menu) all strike us as worthy places to fuel the body and soul.  

Cat Spring 

First, yes, Cat Spring is a place. Second, it is high on Texas Ten’s list of places to return to. Third, we are not completely nuts. While exploring, we stumbled on the Cat Spring Country Club and Crossroads Tavern. We had to be somewhere, so we could only check it out for a few minutes.  

This place is a movie set waiting to be filmed. The strength of a rural community oozes out of the woodwork. The menu is standard, but what really motivates us is Friday night. The Bradford family of East Texas contributed the prettier half of Texas Ten’s ace reporting team. The Bradfords decamped to San Antonio, but Friday nights were still a callback to lake life, East Texas style.  That meant one thing –  Fish Fries.  The Club and Tavern continue that Friday night tradition, and we are determined to see if they can do it as well as Russell Bradford. We will let you know.

Nightlife 

Austin County will not make the top ten for partying, but that does not mean visitors cannot find a good time. In Bellville, Huff Brewing Company is a small-batch brewer with a deserved reputation. Their facility is a great place to sample and often has entertainment. A little calmer atmosphere for more sipping and less chugging can be found at U Bar Winery. Darst Ranch Vineyards has a good reputation for the chardonnays but you need to call ahead for tastings.

Sealy, however, hosts the prime nightlife opportunity with the Wolf Pack Bar and Grill in a smartly renovated and expanded feed store. We thought maybe Wolf Pack referred to the Zach Galifankis character in The Hangover. Wrong. Wolf Pack pays homage to the owner’s catamaran on which they and their children sailed the seas. I’m not sure what it is about the area and sailors (See Newman’s Castle), but their adventurous spirit serves the area well.

Bellville is just a great downtown shopping experience.  

Texas Ten has been in a thousand decor/apparel stores on county squares. We love them all, but Buck Ferguson just might be the very best. The store is stunningly renovated, and the owners/curators have a keen eye for the unusual. This is not just “I found it at market” stuff. Of course, the name is intriguing, but you need to ask the owners about that. This one is worth not just a stop but a detour if you are anywhere close.  

Buck Ferguson is not lonely. Cocco and Duckies offer gifts, jewelry, and women’s wear, again of the elevated, classy variety. Rae’s on the Square is its equal. Southern Trends offers more fun stuff and everyday living finds.  

For a specialty store, Phenix Knives is hard to beat. Who knew cutlery could be so cool? All kidding aside, this is what craftsmanship means. Those are just the highlights we appreciated. The square is chock full of places to spend some time and money. Plan on a couple of hours at least.  

The best bang for your buck in Bellville may not be on the square. Bring a cooler and fill it with meats and goodies from the Bellville Meat Market. 

Sealy does not have as much concentrated retail, but Stockyard Antiques earns its reputation as one of the better treasure hunt-type stores in Texas. We came away a few dollars lighter but much happier.  

Austin County is “Austin” County for a reason. Texas history is dug deep here. So, it stands to reason that you can get the authentic Texas ranch experience at Texas Ranch Life. The Blisswood Bed and Breakfast offers what looks like a spectacular getaway for the weekend experience.  

For a modern, well-thought out stay in nearby Kenney, the Country Dome Suites offer quirky fun and great comfort simultaneously.  

For as pretty as the countryside is, there are fewer campgrounds and RV parks within the county than one would expect. These seem to be the best options:  

Stephen F. Austin State Park –  San Felipe, TX 

The Pecan Cottage -Sealy, TX 

Kathy’s Kampground  – Sealy, TX   

Sealy RV Park – Sealy, TX  

Coushatte Recreation Ranch – Austin County, TX 

Bellville, in particular, does a great job of hosting events designed to draw people downtown. Check the calendar before visiting. The biggest event is the Austin County Fair, held over ten days yearly in early October. Texas Ten has a keen interest in the Classic Car Stampede in March.   

The Coushatte Recreation Center becomes Bluegrass, USA, for three days in October each year.  San Felipe celebrates Stephen F. Austin all year long, particularly at the Father of Texas celebration each November.  

This land is just begging for a resort-level golf course, particularly given its proximity to Houston. But the people of Austin County prefer to grow things on their land. It’s probably for the best, but maybe it’s a missed opportunity? There is a nine-hole semi-private track that looks gorgeous. Conditions vary depending on the amount of rain we get. 

Austin County is in Houston’s sphere of influence. Bellville sits at the intersection of SH 36 and SH 159, approximately 14 miles north of I-10. (Sealy is basically on I-10). More generally, Bellville is almost four hours south-southeast of the geographic center of the state in Brady, Texas. Windshield time from other major Texas cities can be found here. The drive in, particularly in spring and fall, is spectacular.  

Flying commercially means Hobby or Bush-Intercontinental Airport in Houston, each serviced by most airlines. It is a toss-up as to which will provide the shorter drive, but count on at least an hour and a half even if Houston traffic cooperates. Smaller craft can use a variety of small airports in West Houston or Easterbrook in College Station, but all are a minimum of 50 miles from Bellville. 

West Houston Airport  

Hooks Memorial Airport 

Wharton Municipal 

Sugar Land Regional Airport  

Easterwood Airport (College Station) 

The history of this area tells of small bands of Tonkawas, a nomadic hunter-gatherer tribe following the path of buffalo that roamed freely.  In the eighteenth century, French explorers René Robert Cavelier and Sieur de La Salle ventured into the northernmost portion of this region.  By the eighteenth century, most of these natives had died out because of diseases introduced by the Europeans. Other bands of nomadic hunters moved in, and harmless parties of petty thieves occasionally bothered settlers. This was in stark comparison to the dangerous raids on other settlements by the Wacos, Wichitas, Comanches, and Apaches along the southern borders of the Brazos River.  In the early 1820s, Stephen F. Austin established a militia to fend off raids.  One settler in the area, Jared E. Groce, a wealthy planter from Georgia, took matters into his own hands, saddling up his armed men and some of his 90 slaves to aid in the fight against Indian raids.  Because of the efforts by these and other groups in the area, Indian invasions decreased sharply by 1836.   

The wooded landscapes and creeks within the borders of Caney Creek, the Brazos River to its northeast, and the San Bernard River to the southwest proved to be a strategic location in 1823 for the original founding colony of Stephen F. Austin. This land was prime real estate for agricultural development, just what enticed the early immigrants to Austin’s Colony in Mexican Texas.  By 1824, thirty-seven of the “Old Three Hundred” had received land grants and began to settle their land.  This growing colony would, in later years, play a pivotal role in events that occurred throughout the Texas Revolution, starting with the conventions of  1832 and 1833.  In 1835, San Felipe de Austin became the capital of the short-lived provisional government of the Republic of Texas even after its residents burned it to the ground in a defiant move against Antonio López de Santa Anna during the Runaway Scrape of 1836. In December 1846, however, a referendum established Bellville, in the north-central portion of the County, to become the geographical center and permanent county seat.   

Between 1832 and 1846, a massive influx of European immigrants, primarily Germans, besides small pockets of Austrians, Swiss, and Prussians, arrived in this region. These new residents farmed corn, cotton, and tobacco, and by the late 1880s, a burgeoning cigar business had grown, thanks to the German-run Shiege Cigar Factory. 

By the early 1860s, tensions over slave insurrections and talk of secession came to Austin County.  The establishment of patrols took place, and in February of 1860, participants held a meeting in Bellville where they advocated secession if the “northern aggressions” continued.  But Unionist sentiments also ran high in this area, led by the large German contingent.  In 1861, however, Austin County overwhelmingly approved secession, 825 to 212 votes.  

Hundreds of Confederate and Unionist sympathizers alike enlisted from this region in anticipation of the coming war.  Conscription in early 1862 put immigrants in the South at odds with their neighbors as they hoped to remain neutral.  The draft exceptions continued to be granted until the war raged, and the cause needed able-bodied men. Many of these men, however, deserted. The Bellville Countryman published the names of those who fled, and they either escaped to Mexico or stayed with their families. However, they had to plow their fields by moonlight to avoid further shame.  Conflicts between Confederate and Union sympathizers were common. But in 1863, sentiments against conscription, particularly in the German community, reached a fever pitch.  The authorities declared martial law in Austin, Colorado, and Fayette counties.  It was only after German homes were raided, abuse started, and arrests were carried out that some of those being drafted finally stepped forward.  This did not end the ill feelings or secret conspiracies throughout the war—an ugly time, to be sure. 

Hempstead maintained a strategic spot along the Houston and Texas Central Railway, and manufacturing thrived despite or perhaps because of the Civil War.  There was no famine in Austin County thanks to munitions productions in Bellville, foundries in Bellville and Hempstead producing canteens, skillets, and camp kettles.  The Hempstead Manufacturing Company was a mainstay in woven and woolen goods for soldiers during the war. When Union blockades along the coast tightened, planters redirected cotton shipments through extensive caravans to be exchanged with other necessary products.  

Though the war’s end saw violence and chaos, Reconstruction also brought a new flock of black planters to the area who sought refuge from their former enslavers; the Freedmen’s Bureau had established a headquarters in Hempstead, and Austin County’s population rose 47%.  Austin Colony was no Utopia for blacks, though.  The Republican-sponsored Union League, introduced in 1867 to mobilize the black vote, led to a wave of violence against blacks by Democratic-run, Klan-like groups. These activities caused a decline in the black population, suplanted by a recent wave of Czech immigrants.  Farming and ranching declined but rebounded by the 1900s when railways expanded, and roads and farming capabilities improved.  Today, agribusiness and tourism, with some light manufacturing, make up the economic mainstays of the County.  

Throughout the late twentieth century, Democrats made up the majority of the population in Austin County.  By the mid-1990s, Republicans had begun to gain popularity and followed the state’s Republican voting trend to date.  As of the 2020 census, Austin County’s population was 30,017.  Of this number, more than 58% are white and non-hispanic, 9.4% are black, and 28.9% are Hispanic, with 1.7% being mixed race.  Regarding education, 24.1% have a bachelor’s degree or higher with a median income of $73,556. 

Austin County has been home to many major league baseball players throughout the years, such as Beau Bell, Ernie Koy, Lucas Lutge, and Red Lynn, to name a few.  Outlaw and gunfighter William “Wild Bill” Preston Longley, American guitarist and jazz singer Huey Long, and Pan American Games pole vaulter medalist Clayton Fritsch have all called Austin County home. 

Primary Sources:  

254 Texas Courthouses 

Census Bureau 

Humanities Texas  

People From Austin County 

Sons of DeWitt Colony 

Texas State Historical Society