Brownsville, Texas
(Cameron COUNTY)

Brownsville’s courthouse situation raises the question: “What is a courthouse?” Cameron County houses the trial courts in a nondescript, low-slung structure on Harrison Street with nothing of note around them. The “real courthouse,” however, is the gorgeous traditional structure at 1150 Madison St. That structure, built in 1912 and restored around the turn of this century, housed the Courts for a century or more. Today, it is home to the administrative functions of county government, but everyone still calls it either the courthouse or the Dancy Building. Oscar Dancy, the building’s namesake, holds the Texas record for service as a county judge at 48 years.

The Dancy Building is an imposing three-story Beaux Arts (think Greek and Roman influences) beauty designed by famed Texas architect Atlee B. Ayres. Completed in 1912, the building features a beautiful stained-glass skylight as one of its most striking features. Restoring the skylight as part of the turn-of-the-century restoration was tricky, but Italian masters were able to find matching glass in a debilitated church. 

The glass was not the only issue. Fumigating for termites required borrowing Texas’s largest tent. During construction, the discovery of a 700-person gravesite caused significant problems. All is well that ends well, as the reconstruction efforts restored the Dancy Building to its former glory.

Let’s get organized. Port Isabel and South Padre Island, or “SPI,” are primarily traditional beach vacation activities. Brownsville has most of the history, while Brownsville and Harlingen share most high-culture experiences. Nature adventures are throughout the county. 

The Beaches- Port Isabel, SPI, and Boca Chica

State Highways 100 and 48 converge just east of Port Isabel to form Queen Isabella Boulevard. Queen Isabella leads you through a quaint fishing village with the requisite tourist restaurants and shops, past the iconic lighthouse, and over the long causeway into SPI and its beaches. As with the rest of the Texas coast, the barrier island on which SPI sits has beaches that face the Gulf of Mexico/America to the east and the “bayside” facing Laguna Madre to the west. The Gulf beaches have white, soft sand and crowds. The bayside has tranquil marshes, sunsets, and serenity.

From the entrance to SPI for about 10 miles north, the typical beach town occupies both sides of the road. Lots of condos, high rises, souvenir stores, restaurants, and rental places to your right and left. Beyond the structures, the great shores. Generally, you know what to do here: Play in the ocean, rinse off, play in the pool, shower, hit the town for seafood, return for a night swim, and repeat the next day. For flair, get boogie boards, build sand castles, take a boat tour, charter a fishing cruise, and rent a jet ski. Assuming it does not freak you out too much, a parasail. Texas Ten gives you all the shopping, renting, special services, and eating tips to maximize those experiences in the sections devoted to shopping and eating. 

For out-of-the-ordinary beach adventures, however, in Port Isabel, make sure to stop at the Lighthouse State Historical Site. Then, visit  Los Tortugas Seafood Market to get ceviche for the condo. Buy lots of it; many Texans count that purchase as the official start of their beach vacation. The Port Isabel Historical Museum introduces you to the area’s nautical history.  

After crossing the causeway into SPI, Sea Turtle, Inc. operates a fascinating rescue and conservancy program for the popular shelled creatures. While the tour is self-guided, the staff gives regularly scheduled talks. South Padre Birding, Nature Center and Alligator Sanctuary reveals the extraordinary biodiversity on the island through tours or self-guided viewing. If the waves are not big enough for you, the Beach Waterpark might cure your adrenaline deficiency. Speed of a different type is at  Sand Monsters, where souped-up buggies are the stars. South Padre Island Adventure Park is zip line central, along with other activities. These are just the tip of the iceberg- see the shopping section for all the “normal” beach activities. 

If you are up for something more solitary and wild, State Highway 4 runs east from Brownsville and south of Port Isabel. From that road, one can explore the area known as Boca Chica. Sound familiar? Boca Chica is home to the first completely private SpaceX launch facility and more than minimal controversy. While the “starbase” is private, you can watch a 21st-century liftoff if you time it right. 

The federal government controls much of the area through the Lower Rio Grande Valley National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge is well controlled, with no camping and access from dawn to dusk. There are plenty of trails and viewing platforms. Boca Chica Beach and Del Mar Beach are just north of the Refuge. Boca Chica allows for rough overnight camping, surf fishing, ocean swimming, and beach pictures with actual rockets in the background. Del Mar has history, but not much else. In the 1920s and 1930s, Delmar developed as a high-end beach resort, but hurricanes and World War II ended that dream.  Both of these beaches are just north of Mexico. One old world, one new word, and each out of the ordinary, to be sure.

SPI also offers beaches with some solitude. Head north from the central part of town on State Highway 100. You will quickly be out of the populated area. You can park at the roadside and walk in, or use beach access roads to drive in. Outside the city limits, driving on the beach is allowed; you can make it to Port Mansfield. A four-wheel drive with decent clearance is your best bet for beach driving. A popular destination for oddity seekers is “UFO Beach,” so named for an odd and now-decorated buoy washed ashore. The buoy is about a seven-mile hike from the end of Highway 100. There are many other beaches to explore, each with its particular features. Generally, the farther north, the more remote and the bigger your preparations need to be. 

History and Culture Seekers-Brownsville and Harlingen

Surf camp is not for everybody. To dig into the area’s rich history, start at the Historical Brownsville Museum and the Heritage Museum. The Costumes of America Museum tells a broader view of the cultures that shaped the area through fashion. The original Fort Brown was witness to history, particularly the Mexican-American War. Some earthen works and a historical marker are left, but not much else. The nearby college does reference some buildings that hardcore historians enjoy. But you can say you have been there. 

In an odd twist, the last land battle of the Civil War happened over a month after Lee’s surrender at Appomattox when a Union commander with forces at Palmito Ranch decided to attack Confederate forces for reasons now lost. The Grays eventually drove the Blues back so they could say they won the battle, but lost the war. Again, not much to see today, but history buffs often like to soak it in. 

Brownsville was also a hot spot for conflict in the Mexican-American War. The Palo Alto Battlefield and the Resaca de la Palma National Battlefield are both at a state-run site that gives witness to that conflict. Finally, the city cemetery, walking tours through the historic neighborhoods, and the resources available at the beautiful Market Square Research Center (appointment only) complete the picture of Brownsville’s history.

Brownsville also has the region’s best zoo, a children’s museum, and murals are a thing! 

Harlingen celebrates another war with a replica Flag Raising at Iwo Jima sculpture and a marine (the service, not the aquatic concept) museum. Local history can be explored at the Harlingen Arts & Heritage Museum complex. Texas Ten loved the astounding number of great murals Harlingen has to offer. Look around—they are everywhere. Of particular note is the affecting History of Mexico and Mankind Mural at 101 West St., Harlingen, TX 78550.  

What do you get when a German and a Mexican collide? Upbeat dance music featuring accordions is called conjunto. Get the whole story at the Museum of Texas Conjunto Music in San Benito. By the way, San Benito is the hometown of Tejano legend Freddy Fender. Just look at the water tower. The local chapter of the Commemorative Air Force operates out of the Las Fresnos Airport with a small fleet of vintage planes and related items, open for inspection on a limited basis.  

Nature Away From the Beaches

South Texas is one of the best places for birders in the world, so the list of birding sites and places of interest is long. We might leave one or two out, but here goes. The Sabal Palms Sanctuary and Rabb House, initially operated by the Audubon Society, is birder central. You can stay on the property if you reserve early enough. The Harlingen Arroyo Golorado, Resaca de la Palma State Park, and South Padre Birding Center are each part of the World Birding Center essential sites, with several more in neighboring Hidalgo County.   Other areas where you might find a feathered treasure are the Laguna Atascosa Wildlife Refuge and other sites on the Arroyo Colorado Loop, described here, the Boca Chica Loop, described here, and the Las Palomas Loop, described here.  

Fragile Planet Wildlife Park connects kids and families with nature in an educational setting in Los Fresnos. BobzWorld is close by and somewhat indescribable, but kids love it. We put it in the nature category because- dinosaurs. Finally, the Ecotourism Center in Laguna Vista is high-quality.

On South Padre

By location is easiest. As most people stay in SPI, we will start there. Texas Ten has its favorites in most of the essential categories. For tried and true seafood, but with a large menu for the “picky eaters who generally are young and do not “like” seafood, having never tasted it, but the adults still want an authentic seafood meal,” it has to be Sea Ranch Restaurant—just a classic. Have the hamburger kid; I am doing oysters first, then shrimp, then the snapper.  

For breakfast, Cafe On the Beach. We go here on the last day of every stay, which is always bittersweet. The experience is close to beach-perfect, so it hurts to leave. Cafe on the Beach is the house restaurant for the Palms Resort, a very cool family-style place where the Cleavers might have stayed. Open-air dining, and they keep it simple and delicious. You will leave relaxed and full.

For lunch, Yummie’s Bistro. The crowds flock to this strip center, deli-style casual eatery for a reason. Sandwiches, salads, soups, and simple entrees that will knock your socks off. Excellent service for the crowds they draw. 

We have a big, rowdy group. Where do we go? Padre Island Brewing Co. Always. The food is fine, particularly the burgers.  The cold beer and the vibes set it apart. 

We are by ourselves or in the blessed condition that the kids can be trusted not to obliterate the condo, and Mama wants a date night? We will coin-flip between F & B and Liam’s Steakhouse (also in Brownsville). Both are elegant but not pretentious. F & B is modern, Liam’s old school. F & B tends to seafood, and Liam leans to red meat, but both are more than capable of playing for either team. F & B is a beautiful restaurant, while Liam’s is in a gorgeous setting. You can hear your date. You win either way.

We are exhausted, it’s late, we are sunburned, and we do not want to leave the condo night? Pizza is the answer. Charlie’s Pizza, takeout or delivery, to be specific. There are other good options, but Charlie’s is the most consistent. 

The quirky place—we think it is cool because our family loves it—when actually a million families think the same thing? The Meatball Cafe is Italian-centric, guaranteeing something for everyone, but they also have great seafood. It’s an institution. 

That should get you through the week. But if you are staying the summer or snowbirding the winter, here is a list for every category. 

Seafood Focused: Dirty Al’s (long-time locals’ favorite) and Ceviche, Ceviche (counter service but great for take-out or a quick bite).

Mostly casual seafood but with an accommodating menu: Laguna Bob (great sunsets, often live music); Ola’s (formerly a Barry’s, at Sand Rose Resort); Lobo Del Mar (boat up on the bayside); Blackbeard’s (well-loved favorite); and Daddy’s Seafood (specializing in Cajun).

Pizza: Gabriella’s (other Italian also) and Gabriella’s Express; D Pizza Joint; and Sputnik Grill (More than pizza, but their brick-oven pies are the headliner).

Bar feel, but with food: Mahi Nic (one of the best reviewed spots on the island); Louie’s Backyard (huge place on the water, great for fireworks watching); Landshark (Margaritaville); Longboard (as waterfront as you can get with frequent live music); Jake’s Restaurant and Bar; Tom & Jerry’s Beach Club Bar & Grill; Clayton’s on the Beach (billed as the biggest bar on the Texas Coast, fireworks every Friday and Saturday in the summer); Coconut Jack’s (long time bayside bar and grill); Kelly’s (great Irsih pub); and Tequila Sunset.

Tex-Mex mostly: Senor Donkey; Mariscos Playa Azul Cafe (authentic!); Calacas Tacos and Beer (local small chain); and El Chilango Taqueria (no frills but great food).

Fine dining: Viva (casual but great food, spectacular sunsets on the patio)

Diner-like: Grapevine Cafe (top-notch breakfast and dinner); Nautico Island Grill (but nicer than a diner); Josephine’s Kitchen (elevated breakfast and lunch); Windjammer Beachfront (at Isla Grand); Mariluna (at the Marriott Courtyard); Wanna Wanna Inn Beach Bar & Grill (at the Island Inn); and The Kraken (weird name, but good food). 

It is unique: Hedera Tropical Grill (fresh food for fresh people), Roccotto Grill (well-executed seafood-Asian-Peruvian fusion, not a typo), and Kohnami (there is not much Asian food on the island, but this Japanese-inspired place is the go-to for sushi and other favorites). 

For straight-up alcohol, try Harry’s, SPI Wine Bar, Quarterdeck Lounge (at Isla Grand, try the Wednesday Night Crab Races), and Coral Reef Lounge (Karaoke HQ). Of course, about half of the restaurants we listed have great bars, and many offer live music. 

In Port Isabel

Port Isabel has the same beach vibe, with more emphasis on fish and history.  Noting epitomizes that vibe better than Joe’s Oyster Bar, a Port Isabel institution. A seafood market from 1982 and a restaurant for a quarter century means history.  Outstanding Po’boys and platters mean fish.  We already mentioned Los Tortugas for ceviche takeout; it is also a full-scale seafood market and restaurant. There is a Josephine’s and a Dirty Al’s (in a historic railroad depot with a great view), so the same recommendations apply as across the bay—elevated cafe food for Josephine’s and solid seafood for Dirty Al’s. 

In addition, there is Isabel’s Cafe for time-honored, no-frills cafe food, the Grouchy Gringo for a full scale, all-day menu, Pirate’s Landing for the deck on the bay experience, White Sands to eat at the marina, Hopper Haus for the upscale bar and barfood vibe, and Doubleday for a sports bar with plenty of fun distractions. 

The Burger Shack and Beer Garden is outdoors, self-explanatory, and delicious. Beach Bowls offers vegan, healthy choices. Rincon Veracruzano is a simple place for good seafood. 

J& Bubba’s Bar & Grill is the best spot for nightlife, but has solid food options throughout the day. In particular, Taqueria Los Nava gets rave reviews. In this vein, Tex-Mex receives more attention in Port Isabel than it does in SPI. Choose from El Papa’s, Kiki’s, El Jefe, Mexiquito,  and El Buen Pescador,   

In an unexpected twist, Leo’s Grill gets high marks for Indian cuisine.

Brownsville

Brownsville has a great mixture of old-school favorites and chef-driven offerings unavailable north of the Rio Grande Valley.  If you are in Brownsville, hit as many of these as possible. If you stay at the beach, pick a night and head into town. 

Every food story about Brownsville starts with Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que. Texas Ten recognizes that sometimes the truth is indeed the truth. This perennial favorite has earned its place on top of the heap. Famous for its barbacoa cooked in an underground pit, you must arrive early to beat the lines. Open Friday to Sunday only, this is worth altering your schedule. Vermillion Restaurant and Watering Hole has satisfied locals for 91 years with a combination of Mexican and American dishes. The Toddle Inn can claim only 65 years of doing the same, but it is just as good. Texas Ten refuses to be a tiebreaker. Spanky’s Burgers, eaten on their deck, are food bliss. 

Fine dining is alive and well. Argentinian steak and seafood have won the day. Madeira and La Pampa have mastered that art form. Chilmoli moves just a bit north to faithfully replicate a Mexican steakhouse.  Liam’s is a more traditional steakhouse with an SPI location we already discussed. La Reve and Jolie Petie offer French cuisine and dining standards worthy of anywhere this side of the Atlantic. 

Brownsville also has more reasonably priced restaurants offering excellent food and ambiance. By category, if you want Italian, there are Toscafina, Matilda (Italian-Mexican fusion), and Dodici Pizza & Wine (just pizza but with great wine pairings and atmosphere). For New America, try Lola’s Bistro. The “one-step up” Mexican restaurant list includes Terras Urban Mexican Kitchen, La Troje Bar & Grill, and a close cousin with Monarca for “Baja Mediterranean.” For steak, there is Nueva York Steakhouse. Gazpachos is the spot for old-world Latin Americans blending into Mexican cuisine with a robust wine list.

Of course, the city is competitive with anywhere else in the state for “standard” Tex-Mex. In no particular order, you can be happy at Calacas Tacos & Beer, Emilia’s Restaurant (multiple locations), El Ultimo Taco, Bigo’s, El Mesquite, Mi Pueblito, Taqueria El Taco Loco, 3 Marias Quesadillas, Kiki’s, Don Chucho, La Bandera, Los Campeones, El Piqin, Super Cream, Cinco De Mayo Bar and Grill, or manymore. For a fresh, casual take, there is Mas Natural. Pho & Chinese is the best for Asian food. 

Fresh seafood makes for good seafood. So Brownsville has Mariscos De La Rosa, El Amigo Seafood, Fish King Seafood Restaurant and Market, Chirina’s Fish Tacos, Mi Tierra Seafood Restaurant, Mariscos Cevi Chelas, Cocteleria El Amigo, and yet another Dirty Al’s. Pizza and affordable Italian are at The Pizzeria, Louie’s & Eric’s New York Pizzeria, The Village at La Scala, and Ara’s Pizzeria. 

Hidden gems for lunch include Rutledge Hamburgers,  a legendary “micro restaurant,” serving hamburgers and chips next to the border. They have been doing it for a century, so they must have something right. Moving from the last century to the next, you might want to try the burgers and dogs at Space Dog Station. Main Street Deli gives an angel/devil choice, as you can go with the healthy wrap or a great sandwich that will require some gym time.  Big Daddy’s Restaurant goes all day and specializes in burgers and delicious shakes. Texas Branding Iron is also in the delicious burger business. And for breakfast and brunch, Morning Glory is hard to beat.

And Vera’s Backyard is far from the only barbecue game in town. In fact, the Central Texans who assume barbecue superiority might not want to go head to head with the royalty of Cameron County. Decide for yourself by sampling the offers at Texican BBQ, Chicken Run BBQ, and 1848 BBQ and Beer Garden.

Nightlife is abundant and spirited. There are two main areas for bars or bar & grills, either downtown or near IH 69 to the north of town. Downtown hotspots include Market Square Saloon (karaoke bar), The Library at La Rioja (upscale cozy with good cocktails), The Jukebox Bar (dive bar with plenty of event nights), 920 Gastro Bar (upscale with craft cocktails), Charlie’s Bar & Grill (dive bar catering to the Hispanic community), The Palm Lounge, (restored working man’s bar with top notch bar food), and Pluton Brewing Company for straight from the brewmaster, inventive beers and ales.  Boqueron is wine bar with small plates and cocktails for the non-wine lover, El Hueso de Fraile, a tremendously funky spot with coffee, craft beer, cocktails, and interesting live music, Dirty Habit for high-energy Tejano cowgirl fun, and Double Trouble, an all-purpose bar that is a great place to watchgames, give you all the variety you could want.  

Saving downtown’s best for last, Las Ramblas, twice nominated for a James Beard best cocktails award, gives you that Manhattan-style sophistication. If you are downtown, end your night here.

Along I-69, there is Cobbleheads (bar and grill with full menu, ample outdoor space on the shipping canal, and frequent live music),  Malachela (pour-your-own taproom), Shenanigans (Irish Pub), The Dive, (large high energy bar), and The Laboratory Agave House hip tequila and mescal-centric bar). This area highlights the human species’ inexorable search for optimum efficiency, as highlighted by Shots on Pablo and Shot Republic for alcohol without the distracting mixers. Mala Copa is a high-energy, Spanish-as-a-first-language club. 

Expectations for a place called “The Bar,” housed in a frontage road strip mall, are not high. Shame on us. The Bar is an inventive, fun, and friendly stop.

On the northeast side of town, the weather is usually perfect at the Broken Sprocket, a modern outdoor facility with multiple food trucks, many events and music, and a summer-is-here vibe all year round. 

Finally, Bar-B is LGBTQ affirming, with great drag shows on the calendar. 

Harlingen

Texas Ten has eaten at many Texas cafes and visited many Texas bars. Two of our favorites are in Harlingen, a fact that surprised us. There is nothing better than a good breakfast to start the day. The Koffee Klatch gives great breakfast. It was packed, so we sat at the bar and talked to owners Lucy and Desi. I am still not sure if they were pulling our leg. Our waitress was a wonder, and we met half the staff. The pancakes were fluffy with just a bit of crispiness on the outside, the meats were seasoned and tender, and the eggs were perfectly prepared. Don’t get us started on the biscuit. We had to leave that day or we would have been back for lunch. 

We needed the pick-me-up for having spent quite a bit of time in Sirs Martini Lounge the night before. We arrived in the late afternoon when the place was nearly empty. The inside is cozy and hip at the same time, straight out of New York City or London. We tried a couple of different cocktails, and they were all expertly prepared and explained. It was very dark when we left, but we were very happy. 

Almost all of the non-chain restaurants are downtown or near it. The emphasis is on value, as there are no real high-dollar establishments. Several places have locations in Brownsville and/or South Padre Island. Still, there are several intriguing possibilities. Jackson Street Cork & Craft is a wine bar with casual food in a restored historic space. Laurel Park Bistro takes sandwich making very seriously. Main St. Boutique and Bistro combines shopping and inventive lunch/brunch menu items. New York Deli has a huge following and appears to be the “real deal.” Dos Olivos Market is a small Texas chain pushing a great “shop and dine” concept. 

Other than that, decide the type of food you want and pick from the following.

Tex-Mex: Calacas Tacos & Beer, Buen Apetito, La Playa, Las Vegas Cafe, Platillo’s, Tejano Grill, Los Asados, Richards, Las Cazuelas, Don Gollito, Lenos y Brasas, Pepes, The Original Blanquita, Ramses Tacos & Tequilias, Panchito’s, Las Nortenos, El Rancho, Los Cuates.

Seafood: Oyster Bar, Ceviche, Ceviche,

American Cafe or Diner: Rooster’s Country Cafe, Antigua Bakery & Cafe, Lonnie’s Down Home J & B’s Cafe, Just Fresh, 

Pizza or Italian: Mikey’s Pizza and Shots, Colleti’s, Stefano’s Brooklyn Pizza, The Pizzeria, Fire Fire Pizza

Varied Menu: Station 1 Bar and Grill, Classics Bar and Grill

Barbecue and Burgers: Backyard BBQ, Smoke Texas BBQ, Dave’s BBQ, Khan’s Grill, Chyann’s Specialty Cafe, Reyna’s BBQ & Cocina, Frankie Flav’z Craft Burger House,

Harlingen has a great nightlife scene for a town of its size. Sir Martinis headlines a nice collection of bars near Commerce Street, clustered tightly enough to be pub crawlable. In that group, the Luna Sky Lounge takes advantage of its rooftop and art gallery inside for a sophisticated good time. There is also The Spot Lounge/Jackson Street Beer Garden, Robztown Sports Bar, the Point Bar, Raices by Frankie Flav, and the already mentioned Jackson Street Cork & Craft. 

Another grouping is between Commerce Street and I-69 to the south end of town. It is also pub crawlable (idea for Harlingen weekend: two pub crawls?). If you do them all, you end up at the Hop Shop, Broken Tap, Nite Shift Sports Bar, Lynk Lounge, and The Tipsy Tavern Bar & Grill.

Finally, another stretch along Morgan Boulevard to the northeast side of town includes Chuck’s Icehouse Volleybar and the descriptively named Drink Up Local Bar. 

In addition to, and far removed from Harlingen hippness is Honky Tonk Rose, a leading example of the classic Texas Honky Tonk and a guaranteed good time. The Rose is not actually in Harlingen, but it will be some time before we do a complete report on nearby La Feria, and it can’t be left out.

Brownsville is by far the largest city in the county, and the only one with a true commercial center. For the afternoon of browsing, you want to be downtown, strolling on Elizabeth and Washington streets. Across the bay, Port Isabel and South Padre deal primarily with beach items and souvenirs, spread about where land can be had next to passing traffic. Texas Ten could not discern a difference in T-shirt stores since Pat Magee’s in Port Aransas went out of business so we do not say much about them. We do note for you the boutiques that help you decorate that beach condo or dress you if you forgot your night-out outfit. More importantly, we give you access to the guides, rentals, charters, and activities that make the beach vacation memorable. Harlingen does better with restaurants than shops, but a few are worth trying.

Brownsville

The phrase “Mexican market” or, to those of us who don’t know Spanish but occasionally fake it, “El Mercado,” conjures a colorful, vibrant daily shopping experience. For centuries, the border towns of Texas and the corresponding Mexican sister cities met that definition. Immigration politics, NAFTA, and cartels have drastically reduced the tourism shopping that once fueled the Mercados. In Brownsville, however, you can still see what was once there. It feels hopeful that the full experience will return someday. 

One advantage Brownsville has over other border towns is that the University of Texas at Brownsville anchors the downtown to the far south end. A tour of the campus reveals impressive courtyard structures. Leaving campus headed northwest on University Boulevard, the road splits into two–Elizabeth Street and Washington Streets, intersected crossways by numbered roads from 13th to 1st and Palm Avenue. Alternatively, if you turn due north onto International, you are on the presidential streets. On the northwest end of this 13-block area is the Mitte Cultural District. That is your Mercado, and it is worth exploring. The Eat Local section has the restaurants, bars, and clubs. For shopping, try the following.

Art Galleries: Art Vivo Studio, The Art Hub, Puente Art Studio, Flower Shop Art Studio and Residency, and B & E Art Studio. Also, on campus, there is the UTRGV Art Gallery at Rustberg. 

Vintage and collectables: The Vintage Furniture and Kari’s Thrift Boutique.

Uniques: Buho is a small independent bookstore with a charming setting and carefully cultivated offerings. Try Ella Haute Couture or My Dream and More for a stunning wedding dress. Nelipot Tea Shop offers holistic lifestyle accessories.

Bargain hunting: Greyhound Plaza Mall and 77 Flea Market. There are women’s clothing stores, shoe stores, and perfume sellers throughout the area. 

Elsewhere in the city, there are great boutiques, including Cita’s, Layer, and Golden Girl. A great local chain, The Boot Jack, sells local western wear. Additional art galleries are The Art Studio by NM and Imagene’s Studio. Uniques and collectibles at Kulture Shock, Zeus, and The Comic Cave. A & D Collectibles is in the same vein, but has toys and vinyl.

Port Isabel and South Padre Island

If you are at the beach, the kids–or the kid in you–need a kite from Prokite or B & S Kites. Beach reads can be had at Karma Coffee & Books on SPI or Unruly Cactus Books & Coffee in Port Isabel. If you buy the condo you are staying in or (more likely) want a beach piece for the homestead, try Sisters Interiors or the Art Lounge in South Padre. The better apparel and gift stores on the island are Charmed, Island Style, Art*Sea, Annabelle’s, Rica Clothing,  and Renee’s. Port Isabel has the boutiques at the Lighthouse Hotel, Tesori, Coastal Winds, and JoJoba.

Island Native Surf House for surf-related equipment and apparel. It has the good stuff. 

This leads us to the real economy other than alcohol in the area: guides, rentals, and experiences, by category.

Rentals:

Jim’s Beach Service (beach setups and games)

SPI Fun Rental (golf carts, slingshots, and bikes)

Isla Beach Rental & Market (golf carts)

Sonny’s Beach Service (beach setups, banana boats, and parasailing)

Coconuts Parasailing and Jet Ski Rentals (jet skis, dolphin tours, SpaceX tour)

SPI Activities (golf carts and boats)

Bayside Water Rentals (paddleboards and small boats)

SPI Sessions Water Sports (jet Skis rentals and tours, kayaks, paddleboards, surfing, boogie boards)

Parrot Eyes Water Sports (parasailing, jet ski rentals and tours, kayaks, paddleboards, banana boat, fishing charters, rocket launch charter)

SPI Excursions (parasailing, jet ski rentals and tours, kayaks, paddleboards, banana boat, fishing charters, rocket launch charter, fireworks charter, dolphin cruise, snorkeling)

Air Padre (kiteboarding)

Paradise Fun Rentals (golf carts, slingshots, bikes)

Eh Brah SUP (paddleboard)

ProKites (kiteboarding, foil boarding, and wings)

Surf’s Up (golf carts)

H20 Sports (kiteboards, wings, foil boards, surfing, boat tours)

Windsurf, Inc. (windsurfing, kiteboards, kayaks and paddle boards, tubing and wakeboards)

On the Beach (bodyboard, surfboards, paddleboard)

Driftwood Landing (snorkeling, cruises, dolphins, fishing charters)

Mirage Beachwear (golf carts, slingshots, bikes)

Fishing Guides and Charters:

Captain Elliott

Ultimate Fishing Guides

George’s Fishing Charter Service

South Padre Island Bay Fishing

Big John’s

Epic Charters Unlimited

Old Salt Charters

Bob’s South Padre

Captain Josh

Crystal Flats

Texas Lower Coast Charters

Reel Off Charters

Murphy’s Isla Tours (large boat)

Fish South Padre

Osprey Cruises (large boat)

Blast to Cast (also duck, duve, hog, and turkey hunts)

Reel Therapy

Down South

Misdirected and Misguided

AW Fishing (hunting also)

Laguna Madre Guide Service (hunting also)

Captain Jack Barton

Always a Catch

SPI Fish Killer

Special Activities

Sandcastle Lessons–Sandcastle Building or Sandy Feet

Horse Riding–Island Adventure Park

Amusement and Adventure Parks–Gravity Park, Island Adventure Park, Island Fun Park, Beach Waterpark

Surf Lessons–South Padre Surf Company, SPI Sessions, 77 Surf & Skate

Skate Parks–Spohn Ranch, South Padre Island Skatepark

Interactive Cinema for kids–Nana’s 7D Cinema

Dolphin Cruises–The Original Dolphin Watch, Isla Tours, Breakaway Cruises, Dolphin Docks, Osprey Cruises, Captain Red Beards, SPI Excursions (most also offer fireworks cruises) 

Sunset Dinner Cruise–Ka Sailing, Southern Wave

Pirate Cruise–Black Dragon

Harlingen Shopping

The best shopping experience in Harlingen is Market Days on Jackson Street, the first Saturday of every month. The best things to shop for in Harlingen are vintage items and collectables. Try your luck at the Harlingen Antique Mall, Frank’s Collections (particularly the records), Jackson Street Antiques, The Antique Emporium, Quinn Comics,  and Books-N-Things. 

As far as boutiques go, Cita’s location seems to get high marks from every woman in the valley. For variety, try the grouping of stores on Jackson Street: Designer’s Boutique, The Hive, The Velvet Hangar, and The London. 

Main St. Boutique and Bistro and Dos Olivos Market combine shopping and eating–a potent duo!

In Harlingen, you are better off in a chain hotel. There is nothing notably upscale or unique. 

In or near Brownsville, there are a couple of intriguing options. The Pecan seems like a hip minimalist’s fantasy. Rabb Inn at the Sabal Palms Sanctuary is a hot ticket for birders.

What Texas Ten are suckers or, however, is the old seaside beach resort, with a small “r.” The type of place with charm and fewer than 10 floors of sky-rise condos. It is tough to keep that type of place in a state where the charm outweighs the conditions. Economics and weather are the adversaries. 

We are happy to report that if you have the same preferences, Port Isabel and South Padre have options. We already mentioned The Palms, for its outstanding Cafe on the Beach and it fits nicely into this category. Add the captivating Queen Isabel Inn and charming Lighthouse Boutique Hotel in Port Isabel to the list. 

The juxtaposition of that retro feel and the 21st century comes to life best at Rocket Ranch, a one-of-a-kind experience. Only 8 miles from the SpaceX launch site at Boca Chica, this is a small trailer glamping site with the amenities of a beautiful setting and a great launch party. 

And now for the confessional. As much as Texas Ten enjoys the retro feel of a 50s/60s icon, we regularly enjoy the Sapphire complex with its stunning pool and superb amenities. VRBO is your friend on SPI.

Cameron County is the center of the snowbirding universe, so there is high demand for RV spots. 

Brownsville:

Sunset Palms

Breeze Lake Campground

Jetstream Tropical Trails RV Resort

Brownsville, Texas

Resaca Bend RV Park 

Winter Haven Resort

Honeydale Mobile Home and RV Park

Sierra RV Park

Cactus Cart RV Park

Starship Station (another launch view option)

For tent camping options, check here.

Port Isabel and SPI:

Port Isabel Marina & RV Park

Port Isabel Park Center

Isla Blanca Park

South Padre Island KOA

Adolph Thomae, Jr. County Park

Andy Bowie County Park

There is ample tent camping in the county-owned portions of the beach.

Harlingen:

Encore Sunshine

Encore Paradise

Encore Fun-n-Sun

Encore Tropic Winds

Sun Valley RV Park

The Fig Tree

Palm Gardens RV Park

Carefree Valley

Breezewood Cove (La Feria)

VIP (La Feria)

Anytime is a good time to visit Cameron County. For a little extra spice, South Padre hosts numerous big-time fishing tournaments, including the Shallow Sport in May, the Texas International in late July, and the Ladies’ Kingfish in August. Fireworks over the bay are often, by Memorial Day and July 4th, are special. Sandcastle Days offer spectacular but sadly temporary sculptures in late September to early October. 

Charro Days celebrates Mexican culture in Brownsville, a big deal each February. The nearby launch facility inspires Spacefest every May. Harlingen is home to the Rio Grande Valley Birding Festival each November. Special interest, yes, but also a big event. Other Harlingen pirates include the Winter Texan Fest in January, Blues on the Hill in May and August, and Fall Festival in November.

Golf is a highlight of the area, which makes sense given the climate. There is a course to fit every taste. South Padre Island Golf Club is the newest and most publicized. The name is odd because the course is not on South Padre Island. Instead, it sits across the bay in Laguna Vista in a second-home type community. Bay views and recent construction make the course enjoyable and tough. Rancho Vijeo Resort & Country Club and Treasure Hills in Harlingen are similar concepts. The Rancho Viejo track offers a state-of-the-art Total Golf practice facility. Valley International Country Club in Brownsville is within the group but adds a nine-hole executive course to the standard 18. River Bend Resort & Country Club refers to the Rio Grande River, so slices may count as international excursions. Brownsville Municipal completes the trio of Brownsville courses. They say golf is all about what happens from 100 yards in. That is about exactly true at Long Island Village, a community-based pitch and putt with 18 holes.

South Padre Island Golf Club

1 Golf House Rd.

Laguna Vista, TX 78578

(956) 943-5643

Rancho Vijeo Resort & Country Club

1 Rancho Viejo Dr.

Ranch Viejo, TX 78575

(956) 350-4000

Treasure Hills

3009 Augusta National Dr.

Harlingen, TX 78550

(956) 425-1700

Valley International Country Club
2 Country Club Rd.

Brownsville, Texas 78520
(956) 548-9199, (956) 546-5331

River Bend Resort & Country Club
4541 Military Highway 281 

Brownsville, Texas 78520

(956) 465-1141

Brownsville Municipal Golf Course
1800 W San Marcelo Blvd. 

Brownsville, Texas 78526

(956) 541-2582

Long Island Village

33772 S. Garcia

Port Isabel, TX 78578

(956) 943-3131

To quote John Hiatt, “come on baby, drive south.” Only the southern tip of Florida is farther south in the original 48. Interstate Highway 69E is the major thoroughfare from the north; it intersects with Brownsville and terminates there. State Highway 100 runs east to Port Isabel and South Padre Island. State Highway 281 originates in Brownsville, running west to Hidalgo before a sharp right turn transforms it into a north/south corridor. Brownsville is 6 Hours and 30 minutes of drive time south by east from the state’s geographic center. Approximate windshield dtime from other Texas cities can be seen here. 

If you fly in, a trio of airports close to each other serve some of the major airlines. Brownsville/South Padre is most convenient to the island, beach, and SpaceX. American, United, and Aerus use this spot. Valley International at Harlingen is just up the road and offers options from Delta, Southwest, Sun Country, American, and United. McAllen is an hour to the west and does American, United, and Delta.

Smaller craft might opt for Cameron County’s Municipal Airport at Port Isabel, even closer to the beach. Actually, about as close as you can get. If, for some reason, that does not work, there are regional airports at Edinburg and Weslaco. Weslaco is 45 minutes northwest of Brownsville, and Edinburg is an hour in the same direction.

The lower Rio Grande area, where Cameron County now stands, has a rich history of human habitation. Early Couhiltecans and Karankawa Indians lived here, as evidenced by ancient artifacts. Their lifestyle was deeply connected to the land and the sea, as they hunted small mammals, gathered fruits, roots, and berries, and fished along the shoreline. The arrival of the Spaniards in the 17th century brought diseases that decimated these indigenous populations. Lipan Apaches later inhabited the area, and eventually, Comanches, who were forced farther south and west, also hunted here.

The first known Spanish explorers arrived near present-day Mier and into Brownsville after crossing the Rio Grande in 1638. After hearing word of the French Fort St. Louis built by La Salle in 1687, Alonso de León set off on several expeditions motivated by the desire to find and destroy any attempts by other European colonizers.  Other Spaniards continued to arrive throughout the mid-1700s, colonizing the area and issuing land grants through the period of Mexican rule.  

The County is named after Scotsman Ewen Cameron, who first served in the Texas Army immediately after San Jacinto. His fame, however, came from his defense of the South Texas frontier following the war from all manner of hostile forces. Although Texas was a notion, hostilities with Mexico continued. Cameron was involved in a disastrous raid on Mexico known as the Mier Expedition that ended in the capture of many Texans, including Cameron. Chosen as commander by his captured prisoners, Cameron led an escape that was initially successful but resulted in recapture. Santa Anna ordered the execution of every tenth prisoner, the unlucky ones to be chosen by drawing black beans. Cameron pulled a white bean but was later executed anyway, at the request of one of Santa Anna’s commanders whom Cameron had repeatedly bested. 

The population remained low until conflicts on the border were settled after the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848, ending the Mexican-American War and paving the way for annexation.

Cameron officially became a county on July 4th of that year. In September, Santa Rita, believed to be the first English-speaking town in the region, became the county seat. Brownsville was established in the same year, and due to the insistence of its founder, Charles Stillman, the newer city usurped Santa Rita’s position.

The early economy centered around trade (and smuggling).  During the Gold Rush, miners and prospectors traveled through the region, sometimes staying after landing at Port Isabel.  Despite cholera and yellow fever outbreaks, the population steadily grew.  Land titles and property disputes continued between Mexicans and American settlers, many dragging into the next century.

By the time the Civil War broke out, Brownsville was a thriving port city.  Cotton and salt made their way to Matamoros, evading Union blockades until it was occupied by Federal troops stationed at Fort Brown in 1864.  The Battle of Palmito Ranch, the last battle of the Civil War, was fought here in May of 1865, thirty-four days after Robert E. Lee had surrendered at Appomattox.  After the War, Federal troops were again stationed at Fort Brown, but economic recovery in the County was slow until a railway was finally built.

The first railway in Cameron County was a military road built by Union officer Philip Sheridan. It was not until 1872 that the Rio Grande Valley Railway, connecting Brownsville to Port Isabel, was constructed. The economy remained stagnant because it did not reach northern ports, and the once burgeoning population fell.  Despite a brief rise in agribusiness after the war, the lack of markets led to failing farms.  Ranching remained the primary economic mainstay until 1876, when Brownsville’s first successful irrigation system was installed, turning around a fraction of the land for farming use once again.  

With the expansion of farming and railways to the region, the county’s demographics began to change.  Intermarriages between Mexican and Anglo settlers occurred more frequently, though Protestant and white settlers refused to assimilate.  Brownsville occupied the national stage in 1906 for all the wrong reasons. The stationing of African-American troops at Fort Brown ignited racial tensions. Locals alleged, wihout much evidence, that the soldiers had been involved in violent attacks on local citizens including a rape and a murder. The soldiers denied i,t and their white officers backed them up.

A cursory investigation ensued, and President Teddy Roosevelt took the side of the townspeople, issuing 167 dishonorable discharges to the black soldiers and none to the white officers. The matter became a national cause, but Roosevelt held his ground, to his discredit. In 1970, a scholarly book again laid out the evidence. This time, Congress and the President heard, reversing the discharges. Only one soldier survived that long. 

By 1910, with the outbreak of the Mexican Revolution, race relations in Cameron were strained, and ethnic separatism reigned. Mexican Americans were seen as inferior laborers, and their situation was worsened by raids brought on by Mexican bandits from the border. Blacks were even worse off. 

James B. Wells, a former naval officer turned politician, consolidated the Democratic party and maintained political control of the County’s large ranches. For a time, he maintained a semblance of order. However, with changing demographics in the 1920s, the new guard pressured Wells and could no longer keep his grasp. A new wealthy Anglo elite replaced the old guard, and these new Anglo settlers favored segregation, leading to even increased discrimination. 

During Prohibition, Brownsville was a popular tourist port due to the availability of alcohol over the border and a growing market for illegal liquor shipping. Eventually, Brownsville became a vital shipping port once again for legal goods, leading to a positive turn in the local farming economy. Cotton again became an important cash crop in the region, protecting the County from the otherwise widespread ravages of the Great Depression.  

The growing agribusiness in Cameron County supported the war efforts during World War II and continued throughout. Produce diversification made Cameron a national leader in cotton, sorghum, grapefruit, and sugarcane.  Though farming and ranching are still the most significant economic contributors, oil and gas, commercial fishing, and light manufacturing employ significant numbers, too. The county also became known as one of the most desirable places for “Texas Snowbirds” to retire.

South Padre Island has developed into one of Texas’s tourism hot spots. More recently, SpaceX’s selection of Boca Chica, in the remote southern part of the county, to serve as a rocket launch facility brought jobs, more tourists, and controversy—nothing new for this long-time powder keg. 

According to the 2020 census, Cameron County’s population is 421,017. The area’s ethnic makeup is 89% Hispanic or Latino, 8.0% White, 1% African American, with the remainder split in small percentages among other races. Cameron County residents are slightly less educated than the Texas average, with incomes well below the state and national averages.  Generally, Cameron County joined the other border counties in Texas with a strong democratic and liberal lean. That streak was broken in 2024 as the GOP candidate for president carried the county with 53% of the vote. 

Cameron County has been home to several accomplished residents. In the music world, singer-songwriter Kris Kristofferson was born in Brownsville, rock and roll pioneer Bill Haley spent his last years in Harlingen, and Jim Messina of Loggins and Messina spent his early childhood in Harlingen. The small town of San Benito produced current country star Charley Crockett and all-time legend of crossover Tejano, Freddy Fender. San Benito also claims T. R. Fehrenbach, author of the definitive history of Texas, Lone Star.  On the screen, director Julian Schnabel and actor Thomas Haden Chruch attended high school locally.  Two star tracksters come from the area in Olympic medalist Bobby Morrow and Baylor’s Todd Harbour, long the holder of the American collegiate mile record.  Others range from Rough Rider Juan Alamia to to romance novelist Catherine Coulter and many notable politicians, including Gilberto Hinojosa, Margan LaMantia, Linda Yañez, and Emmy Ruiz.

Primary Sources: 

Texas State Historical Society

Census Bureau

254 Texas Courthouses

Famous people 

Texas Beyond History

OTHER: HARLINGEN, SOUTH PADRE, BOCA CHICO, PORT ISABEL, LA FERIA , LOS FRESNOS, SAN BENITO, LAGUNA VISTA